Chevy Corvette

you need heat shields under the carpit if they are missing.

A 3 amp fuse sounds pretty small for that application. I would suggest at least a 5 amp, and probably a 10 amp.

There is the base 230hp 283ci V8, the optional 245hp 283ci V8, the optional 250hp 283ci fuel-injected V8, the optional 270hp 283ci V8, and the optional 290hp 283ci fuel-injected V8.

I would think that 1984 starter construction, should be very similar to my 1981 starter. The stater relay is set of contacts contain within the Solenoid that is mounted on the side of the stater. Typical solenoid wiring configuration is one large gauge wire (usally coming directly from the battery) and two small gauge wires. The one small wire on the "S" terminal applies power and activates the solenoid when you turn the key, closing the starter relay contacts within the solenoid and applies battery power to stater motor, causing the engine to turn over (crank). Assuming the ignition system is functional and the engine is mechanically operational the engine should run.

Even though the service manual says you no longer have to remove the tank on 79 models, I had to lower the tank (not completely removing it) to get the sending unit out. You have to unbolt the straps and also remove the under tank support bar (which can be a real joy itself). I used a 9/16 socket on a 1/4 inch drive breaker bar to get at the 4 bolts inside the frame. It's not really hard to get the bar out once you find the right tool (the breaker bar). Once the tank is low enough to get the sending unit out of the tank, it will come out thru the opening in the body although it takes some wiggling. Of course fuel lines must be disconnected from both the sending unit and tank. I suspect a change had been made sometime in 79 on removing the sending unit as I have seen internet posts saying both yse and no to dropping out the tank. On mine, the unit was to far forward of the body opening to get it out. I did this on the ground. Remove the spare tire assembly (it's easy). Makes the job a lot easier.

You did not give the year so I will assume a newer one. The low side fitting is normally on the accumulator. If your system has R134A refrigerant do not use any that has stop leak in it. That will ruin a shops equipment.

They would fit, but those big valves would raise the torque curve up so high in the rpm band, you wouldn't be able to get at it without installing radical gears. Also, most 202 heads weren't drilled for front mounted accessories such as the passenger-side alternator.

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No, the terms may be used interchangeably.

Yes with Snow tires ( if you live in a region with snow during winter ) but with no more then 2 inches of snow or less you will get stuck or have no traction

well im 16 i dont know 2 much about cars yet...but on my dad's 85 vette an aftermarket computer chip caused the main fan to not come on at all....(may be related with temps idk) but i think you have to get some sort of sensor... i believe you would have to buy a kit like this http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=40416&dept%5Fid=1252

how do you drainfuel tank 1982 corvett

It's probably set at a certain rpm, but should be adjustable.

yes

You should have a small ratchet with a torx head driver on it in Your console near the rear. There are 4 bolts that hold the top on. 2 of them go horizontally into the rear of the top and into the rear header. The front 2 are in the 2 holes that are drilled verticle behind the sun visors. The torx driver is long enough 2 go through these holes and engage the bolts. Unscrew all 4 lift a bit on the front of the top and after it lifts You pull forward on the top and it should come out. If it wont You probably have a bolt left engages. Be careful with lifting the top out as it is akward and a bit heavy. I recommend 2 People. One on each side of the car till You get used to it. Good luck. Skip Underwood

tjeck the orenge box (dimmer) behind the glovecompartmen i think it is broken

Should be located under the drivers side dash panel just to the left of the steering column

Well... My way requires A trusted friend. First! if you have cruise control there is A transducer under your hood. If not instructions will follow shortly. There will be two speedo cables attached to the t-ducer. I unscrew the speedo cable going from the t-ducer to the cabin and give the square cable tip a thumb finger snap spin in both directions and my trusted friend will either say yeah 30-40-50 mph! or no, nothing. If nothing you need to disconnect the cable from the back of the speedo gauge inside and pinch this square cable tip while the same trusted friend spins the other end proving the cable is good. If the speedo jumps then unscrew the other cable going from the t-ducer to the trans and try to spin the square tip of this cable. this one SHOULD NOT TURN FOR IT IS DIRECTLY CONNECTED TO YOUR FINAL DRIVE GEAR on the back of your trans and should be stiff. If this one spins the cable has come un threaded from the back of your trans or has broke. Finally if you have no cruise control dump that thing and get A Vette with some options! just kidding. You got to unscrew the speedo cable from under the back of the trans and give it the same snap spin in both directions with A trusted friend Watching the speedo NOT SITTING IN THE JACKED UP CAR WITH YOU UNDERNEATH! and the same friend will either say yes it jumped on no nothing. Then follow the steps above. Hope this helps

With the intake and carb you are running you are fine on flow. It's all in your carb adjustment. You may have the idle set too low, the floats too high and it's flooding out, could be the wrong size primary jet size. A lot of guys swear by them, but I never had much luck tuning an Edelbrock carb.

The headlight door has three adjustments. The stroke, upper limit, and lower limit. The adjustments can be reached from under the car. Make small turns of the adjustment screws to make the door fit right.

it could be your factory alarm read service manual

The corvette style wheels will fit on any elcamino if they are older style rally wheels.

try ( mid america motorworks) 1-800-500-1500 or check online catalogue vettes only

if there isn't anything wrong with the belt the pulley is turning, check to see if the pulley is stuck, you might need to replace the pulley ( about $30 )

If you are speaking of the rear hatch on a targa top vette, theres no keys for the back. Inside the center console glove box, theres a little yellow button that will pop it open. Those sometimes break, in that case there is little black slide buttons on the side of each door.