Chevy Corvette

Well the first thing to check right off the bat would be to look at the oil level. That would be my first assumption as to why your engine oil light has come on. If you need to delve deeper into the subject, go on over to smokinvette.com and ask the question in the C4 section. Good luck!

First I would remove the lower one, it's the easiest. Once out, reach inside one end and pull the inner rod out as far as possible. then attach a drill on the other end and turn it on. If both ends turn at the same speed then it's probably ok. If you can hold the end opposite the drill without it turning then it's broken. Use the same method on the upper cable.

On the upper left side of your dash there are controls for the elevation and brightness.

The blower motor relay is located under the hood right next to the blower motor near the firewall.............

This is a broad question, and technicle, but I will try to help you, as much as I can. First off, unless this is a car for show only, then this is a pretty serious commitment. A tunnel ram, is for high rpm use, only. They DO NOT run well at all, in the cold, or even on the street. I can remember having to take a butane torch, and heating up the runner, just to get it to start, at 35, to 40 degrees. And, they backfire, flames, out of the carbs, a lot. And rain driving is pretty much out, due to the enormous scoop you are probably going to have to run. I remember spending $150, plus, just for the linkage to run my 660's sideways on the intake, which you have to do, to keep fuel to the float bowls, by the way. You should install 2 electric race pumps, and while you are back there, you are going to need super low gears, cause you will have to spin that thing 7000rpm, to reach the power band. A steel crank, and forged pistons, are a must, along with a set of DART., or other aftermarket head. You are going to need at least 4000rpm, out of your stall converter, and a manual valve body, would be a good idea. Having said all of that, Crane makes two cams that would work well. CC280anc, and the cc290anc. Either will make that motor scream. The first has .518, .536, on the lift, and 280, 290, duration. It has a 108 lobe center, so it will idle rough, but, it will make power allthe way to 7000. The 290 version, is more nasty, but has a higher rpm band. They both are dual patern cams, which seem to work better in this situation. They both have aggresive valve timing so remember to check valve to piston clearance. At least .120 on the chase valve. These are both flat tappet cams, but are both nasty enough to make this thing run. Most people "overcam" their small blocks. That is why I do not feel a roller, is needed here. Roller rockers, 7/16ths studs, and a stud girdle, are a must to spin those type of rpms. Also, I have found over the years that the holley 660 center squiter works best in a two carb situation. That have been said, from experience, I can tell you, you can go just as fast with a single 4 barrel. These days tunnel rams are pretty much for show....

Jump on over to Smokinvette.com and ask for VetteOz, he has done this job a handful of times and he will point you in the right direction! Good luck!

If its the base model it has 300HP, but if its the ZR1 model, it has 405HP.

you need heat shields under the carpit if they are missing.

A 3 amp fuse sounds pretty small for that application. I would suggest at least a 5 amp, and probably a 10 amp.

There is the base 230hp 283ci V8, the optional 245hp 283ci V8, the optional 250hp 283ci fuel-injected V8, the optional 270hp 283ci V8, and the optional 290hp 283ci fuel-injected V8.

I would think that 1984 starter construction, should be very similar to my 1981 starter. The stater relay is set of contacts contain within the Solenoid that is mounted on the side of the stater. Typical solenoid wiring configuration is one large gauge wire (usally coming directly from the battery) and two small gauge wires. The one small wire on the "S" terminal applies power and activates the solenoid when you turn the key, closing the starter relay contacts within the solenoid and applies battery power to stater motor, causing the engine to turn over (crank). Assuming the ignition system is functional and the engine is mechanically operational the engine should run.

Even though the service manual says you no longer have to remove the tank on 79 models, I had to lower the tank (not completely removing it) to get the sending unit out. You have to unbolt the straps and also remove the under tank support bar (which can be a real joy itself). I used a 9/16 socket on a 1/4 inch drive breaker bar to get at the 4 bolts inside the frame. It's not really hard to get the bar out once you find the right tool (the breaker bar). Once the tank is low enough to get the sending unit out of the tank, it will come out thru the opening in the body although it takes some wiggling. Of course fuel lines must be disconnected from both the sending unit and tank. I suspect a change had been made sometime in 79 on removing the sending unit as I have seen internet posts saying both yse and no to dropping out the tank. On mine, the unit was to far forward of the body opening to get it out. I did this on the ground. Remove the spare tire assembly (it's easy). Makes the job a lot easier.

You did not give the year so I will assume a newer one. The low side fitting is normally on the accumulator. If your system has R134A refrigerant do not use any that has stop leak in it. That will ruin a shops equipment.

They would fit, but those big valves would raise the torque curve up so high in the rpm band, you wouldn't be able to get at it without installing radical gears. Also, most 202 heads weren't drilled for front mounted accessories such as the passenger-side alternator.

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No, the terms may be used interchangeably.

Yes with Snow tires ( if you live in a region with snow during winter ) but with no more then 2 inches of snow or less you will get stuck or have no traction

well im 16 i dont know 2 much about cars yet...but on my dad's 85 vette an aftermarket computer chip caused the main fan to not come on at all....(may be related with temps idk) but i think you have to get some sort of sensor... i believe you would have to buy a kit like this http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=40416&dept%5Fid=1252

how do you drainfuel tank 1982 corvett

It's probably set at a certain rpm, but should be adjustable.

yes

You should have a small ratchet with a torx head driver on it in Your console near the rear. There are 4 bolts that hold the top on. 2 of them go horizontally into the rear of the top and into the rear header. The front 2 are in the 2 holes that are drilled verticle behind the sun visors. The torx driver is long enough 2 go through these holes and engage the bolts. Unscrew all 4 lift a bit on the front of the top and after it lifts You pull forward on the top and it should come out. If it wont You probably have a bolt left engages. Be careful with lifting the top out as it is akward and a bit heavy. I recommend 2 People. One on each side of the car till You get used to it. Good luck. Skip Underwood

tjeck the orenge box (dimmer) behind the glovecompartmen i think it is broken

Should be located under the drivers side dash panel just to the left of the steering column

Well... My way requires A trusted friend. First! if you have cruise control there is A transducer under your hood. If not instructions will follow shortly. There will be two speedo cables attached to the t-ducer. I unscrew the speedo cable going from the t-ducer to the cabin and give the square cable tip a thumb finger snap spin in both directions and my trusted friend will either say yeah 30-40-50 mph! or no, nothing. If nothing you need to disconnect the cable from the back of the speedo gauge inside and pinch this square cable tip while the same trusted friend spins the other end proving the cable is good. If the speedo jumps then unscrew the other cable going from the t-ducer to the trans and try to spin the square tip of this cable. this one SHOULD NOT TURN FOR IT IS DIRECTLY CONNECTED TO YOUR FINAL DRIVE GEAR on the back of your trans and should be stiff. If this one spins the cable has come un threaded from the back of your trans or has broke. Finally if you have no cruise control dump that thing and get A Vette with some options! just kidding. You got to unscrew the speedo cable from under the back of the trans and give it the same snap spin in both directions with A trusted friend Watching the speedo NOT SITTING IN THE JACKED UP CAR WITH YOU UNDERNEATH! and the same friend will either say yes it jumped on no nothing. Then follow the steps above. Hope this helps