Chevy Corvette

With the intake and carb you are running you are fine on flow. It's all in your carb adjustment. You may have the idle set too low, the floats too high and it's flooding out, could be the wrong size primary jet size. A lot of guys swear by them, but I never had much luck tuning an Edelbrock carb.

The headlight door has three adjustments. The stroke, upper limit, and lower limit. The adjustments can be reached from under the car. Make small turns of the adjustment screws to make the door fit right.

it could be your factory alarm read service manual

The corvette style wheels will fit on any elcamino if they are older style rally wheels.

try ( mid america motorworks) 1-800-500-1500 or check online catalogue vettes only

if there isn't anything wrong with the belt the pulley is turning, check to see if the pulley is stuck, you might need to replace the pulley ( about $30 )

If you are speaking of the rear hatch on a targa top vette, theres no keys for the back. Inside the center console glove box, theres a little yellow button that will pop it open. Those sometimes break, in that case there is little black slide buttons on the side of each door.

Passenger side up under the glove box. First disconnect the battery. Control module is located behind the blower motor. You may have to remove the blower to get to the module. Unplug the motor before doing so. The wires that you unplug from the blower will go straight to the control module. You will have to contort yourself to get up under there to get to it but be patient and you will get it. There are 3 7/32 screws holding it in place. The back one being the toughest to get to because there is a firewall/guard in place but it can be pushed backwards to get to the last screw. Hope this helps you out. As i am writing this I am replacing mine as well on my 97 vette.

One degree above top dead center.

Shipping weight is 2,840lbs.

Low coolant level? Cooling system airbound? Bad thermostat? Water pump not circulating coolant? Heater control cable not working?

all depends on the rear gear in your car but more than likely 14 or 15 MPG if your lucky.

the total holding capacity of the fuel tank.

Set by dwell 28-32 degrees approx. .017

2,200

yes they did make a 4 seater corvette.

If you are speaking of the "keyed" switch and not the electric column switch, it is not so bad, but I am a locksmith and my point of view may be a bit skewed. Question 1: Is the steering column round, if not ignore the following and call me @ 610.802.0802. If so you have it easy. You will need two "specific" tools available at your local autoparts store. A lockring compressor and a wheel puller. WITHOUT REMOVING THE COLUMN, follow the first few steps at this site I have listed (you will not have to unscrew the metal plate. It will be plastic and will pop right off.) When you get to the step where it says remove the key buzzer contacts, after removing this contact, this is where these instructions end for you. DO NOT FOLLOW ANY FURTHER. Behind this buzzer tab you will see a small set-screw. 7mm., 3/16, or Torx 15 or 20. Remove this screw and the cylinder will slide right out! Reverse the steps and you are done! Post: In the final picture, the one with the key buzzer, it shows three bolts that come out.....NOT FOR IGNITION REMOVAL, so do not do so! Post Post: Have fun removing the "spring clip"! HINT: two tiny screwdrivers. Y-THINK-Y If you are speaking of the "keyed" switch and not the electric column switch, it is not so bad, but I am a locksmith and my point of view may be a bit skewed. Question 1: Is the steering column round, if not ignore the following and email me @ marklast2006@gmail.com If so you have it easy. You will need two "specific" tools available at your local autoparts store. A lockring compressor and a wheel puller. WITHOUT REMOVING THE COLUMN, follow the first few steps at this site I have listed (you will not have to unscrew the metal plate. It will be plastic and will pop right off.) When you get to the step where it says remove the key buzzer contacts, after removing this contact, this is where these instructions end for you. DO NOT FOLLOW ANY FURTHER. Behind this buzzer tab you will see a small set-screw. 7mm., 3/16, or Torx 15 or 20. Remove this screw and the cylinder will slide right out! Reverse the steps and you are done! Post: In the final picture, the one with the key buzzer, it shows three bolts that come out.....NOT FOR IGNITION REMOVAL, so do not do so! Post Post: Have fun removing the "spring clip"! HINT: two tiny screwdrivers. Y-THINK-Y

I don't know how much you know about the subject so I will start at the beginning. First you have to get to it, you can pull the motor or leave it in the vehicle. Its a little harder with it in depending on the space you have in engine compartment. If your leaving the motor in, which I imagine you are, your going to have to take the front end of the vehicle apart. Remove the grill, bumper if need be, radiator, fan, water pump, harmonic balancer, you will need to buy a puller and a installer for the harmonic balancer. You can get a puller kit from harbor frieght tools for $10. You can buy the installer from summit raceing (web site) for arround $30 or you can buy one that will do both the install and removal from summit for $70. Once you have removed your harmonic balancer you can remove your timing cover to expose your timing chain. Turn the motor using a socket wrench until the timing marks on the crank gear and cam gear line up. The marks are usually just white dots, you want the crank mark to be up towards the cam and the cam mark towards the crank, the marks will be up and down from each other. Once you have the marks lined up remove the bolts holding the timing chain to the cam and crank. Remove the timing chain as a whole unit with the cam and crank gear still on it. If the crank gear doesnt want to come loose use your puller on it. when you get it off just put your new gear on and line up the timing marks then put it back on as one unit. If you cant get the crank gear on all the way by hand buy a crank install tool (summit) they run about $24. While you have the thing apart it would be a good Idea to put a new timing chain on. Depending on your vehicle this would also be a good time to change your cam if need be. Its not that hard to do it just takes a while, take your time and don't force anything. If you need anymore help my email is sterlingljles@yahoo.com

The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank, attached to the fuel gage sending unit, and may be serviced separately. Access is through the fuel filler door in the body. 1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Remove fuel filler door. 3. Remove fuel cap. 4. Remove the rubber fuel tank filler neck housing and disconnect drain hose. 5. Remove screws attaching fuel meter/fuel pump to tank. 6. Disconnect fuel lines, fuel vapor line and electrical connector. 7. Remove fuel meter/fuel pump and gasket. 8. Replace fuel pump. 9. Install replacement unit in reverse order.

On the C4 the motor is actually attached to the bracket that holds the headlight assembly. There are about six 10mm bolts that hold it on and one at the end of the drive shaft. That shaft bolt is like a 5/8s and is difficult to reach. I removed the entire assembly from the hood which made it easier to get at the bolts. It's not a difficult task to remove the headlight motor. 88 and newer C4s have a different motor, but the removal process is similar. The C5 is similar as well. Hope this helps.

Only a certified machanic can put this chemical in vehicles.

you can take it to be replaced it has a recall on them

either the owner's manual or the factory service manual

you take the rear windows out to let air flow through makes a huge difference,did that to my 75..

The Corvette VIN is embossed on a stainless steel plate welded to the right side dash pillar brace under the glove box.