Chevy Nova

No, door locks & trunk-one key; Ignition- different key; I know-I have one

go to carfax.com They DO not have 13 digit number..I have been trying with my 1973 corvette for 2 days now!

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Nova, and Camaro, are pretty much the same, so, 70, to 81 Camaro, will work. 67, 68, and 69, Camaro is a half inch, per side, more narrow, so, this could give you a little bit more, valueable wheel well space. For that matter, 62, to 67 Nova, was 1 inch per side more narrow, than your stock rear end. Now, for Chevelle. The Chevelle is a coil spring car, however, if you weld spring pads on it, the 66, and 67 Chevelle, is the same width. Both the Nova, and Camaro rear end will bolt right in, as direct replacements. Pay attention to the front yoke, where the driveline bolts up. Chevy made two types. One had U bolts, and one uses two straps. The two strap type is the stronger. Whater the new one has, go with that. If nothing is on it, then if the 4 holes are threaded, then you need the straps. If they are not, then it is the U bolt type. Both yokes take a different U joint, so, you may have to change that, as well.

Yes, they are.

pick up a chiltons repair manual for you year car at the library.

By all means, yes. Right time era, and excellent candidate. That car was available, at one point, with a LT-1 350, which was one of the vette/Z28 motors, and, there was even an SS big block version, of that car. To do minor disection of the car, it is nothing more than a camaro, underneath. Same subframe, ect. That car never really gained the popularity that the camaro/chevelle did, so it is still a little bit affordable. However, a good investment, just the same, as I am sure that over time it will appreciate to the same levels. Chuck......

There is a VIN located on the door post of the 1967 Chevy Nova. There is also one located under the left front fender that can be seen if the fender is removed.

Either drill lock out or try removing rear seat back for access

It al depends on your driving habits. Generally you can expect between 17 and 19 miles per gallon.

now with all the different ways to modify your suspention with lift kits and all that you can fit jus about anything i saw a nova on 30''. just go on youtube n type in Chevy nova on rims n u will see for urself they fit anything on cars now

front seal is probly out,, when wet it from running it wont leak when dry is shrinks no seal leaksm u turn on it the seal swells and wont leak but after u turn off after so long it well leak more n more

In some 454's 330hp, in other 454's with bigger heads 390hp

180 degrees F

take the bezel nut off the outside of the ignition switch and then put your key in the ignition and get a paper clip and put it through the small hole in the part where the key fits and then push in on the paper clip and turn the key counter clockwise and pull the key and lock out.

Drain the water from your 1972 Chevy Nova cooling system. Remove the heater core water supply hoses. Remove the heater core retaining bolts.

It was a 250 CID ( cubit inch displacement ) 6 cylinder engine

It had 155 HP @ 4200 RPMs.

Front drivers side next to the radiator! Looks like a large protruding box with a condenser attached

yes, but the SS package was available as a purely cosmetic dress up kit for a few hundred bucks. You could get an SS with any engine option.

On the Chevy V8 SB the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 the distributor turns clockwise and the cylinders are numbered while facing the front of the engine or car number 1-3-5-7 will be on your right and numbers 2-4-6-8 will be on your left. , EzForJesus

this guy is correct but does he know that the nova has a 350 small block?

65-67 Novas are the same generation of body. Surely there are subtle differences in moldings, grilles and such. Just do Google image searches on both cars and make comparisons for yourself. Or start attending cruise-ins and swap meets. Talk to the Chevy guys. They just love to show off their knowledge!

71, up until they downsized it in the 80's.

This is kind of hard to explain, but, here goes. You have to get in the back, standing on the floorboards, straddling the tranny hump, and facing the back seat. You have to remove the lower portion, first. From the center, you have to push back, while lifting up. Wiggle it around, and back and forth. You have to work it out of its position. There is only a small slot, in which it will come out. You will understand when you see it. The verticle half will just lift up, and out once you get the bottom out. This is the best I can explain it. It is not an exact science, and a little bit of muscle, and finese, will be required.

It's in the carburetor, take the fuel line to the carb off and then the big nut on the carb and the fuel filter is behind the big nut.

Should have four wires: Positive, Ground, Light, and Tach. Put ground first! I made this mistake and took out all the lights in my dash. Hook the tach wire up to the male end on the distributor cap (you'll have to route it through the firewall). Hook the positive up to a nearby wire or open spot in your fuse box. I tapped off the radio. Hook the light into your panel instrument light circuit.