Chevy Tracker

Possible causes could include a blown fuse, faulty wiring, or a defective switch. Check the fuse box for any blown fuses and inspect the wiring for any damage or loose connections. Additionally, ensure that the switch controlling the dash lights and heater is functioning properly.

You can consider upgrading the suspension system of your Tracker by installing softer shocks or springs. Additionally, adjusting the tire pressure to a lower level can also help absorb some impact and soften the ride.

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The fuse box is located under the dash on the drivers side, on the side. On the 2001 Chevy Tracker it is a 10amp fuse and it is marked DOM. To reset the radio or CD player pull the fuse out with a pair of needle nose pliers for 10 sec. and push it back in. This should reset the radio, clock and CD player.

Some do, some don't. You should have a button on the top if the seat back if it will lay down. One on each side. You should also be able to tell by looking at the seat back from the trunk. Some do, some don't. You should have a button on the top if the seat back if it will lay down. One on each side. You should also be able to tell by looking at the seat back from the trunk.

The rear seat releases are typically in the trunk under the speakers. Just give the knobs a pull and the seatback should release. If the middle seat belt is in the way, there is a release for the lower part on the assembly that if you insert a key it should come out and pull up out of the way.

Lubrication. check the to see if the door is twisted

I have a 95 blazer and the passenger side back seat has more than once refused to go down.

There is a thin cable inside the back of the seat and is supposed to hook and secure by means of a small ball at the end of the cable into a slot on the back of the seat located under the latch that you pull on to lower the seat. The cable slips down inside of the back - but unfortunately I haven't figured out how to get to it - except to take it to a dealer - which I don't do anymore.

You will probably have to remove the seat back cover. It is close at the bottom with a "J and arrow" or two j-straps. I would begin by taking those apart (use a screwdriver to help). See if you can feel around and figure out the problem. It you have to take the trim completely off you will need to remove the headrests. Good luck.

In some cases the seat will get jammed and you have to push the seat back then pull the handle

I'm going to assume that you refer to a connecting rod in the engine. Unfortunately, this isn't an easy task to undertake nor a cheap one to pay for. If the connecting rod snapped it may have caused unrepairable damage while being spun as the crankshaft turned. You should be able to see this by removing the oil pan (and perhaps pump) and inspecting the inside of the engine block, pistons, and crank.

If you've beaten the odds and there is no damage, it may be possible to replace a connecting rod with the engine in the car; I do not know. If it is at all possible, it will be difficult. If you're up for the task, try it yourself. If you're targeting paying a mechanic to do this, it may be cheaper to install a new engine. You'll have to talk with someone with far more experience with this car than I to get a confident answer.

If the connecting rod broke or a bearing spun due to insufficient oil flow/pressure than I would not consider simply trying to replace a rod or bearing.

In any case, if you have a broken or damage connecting rod, the costs will not be cheap. You might be able to swap in an engine from a junkyard yourself for less than .00 dollars or you may pay a mechanic to swap in a brand new turnkey style engine and the cost may be .00 dollars. Most likely, if you choose to pay a mechanic to swap a new engine in. Expect a bill of at least .00. If you pay a mechanic to change the connecting rod, you might be able to get away with .00. However, this may not be possible or feasible.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, Good luck. -MJ

P.S. If it wasn't a connecting rod that is damaged then ignore what I said. If the connecting rod didn't snap, also ignore it.

A car's electronics turn off if the battery is defective or the wiring is damaged. This will prevent electronic components from receiving the power they need.

No. Only the 5-spd models can be flat towed, all others will suffer transmission damage.

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It depends on the engine. The older trackers had a 1.6L 4 cyl that had 95hp. I have a repair manual that states that some had a 1.8L 4 cyl, but they are apparently very rare and I don't know the ratings. The most common engine is the 2.0L 4 cyl which has 127 hp @ 6000 rpm and 134 lb-ft of torque @ 3000 rpm. Lastly in the 1999 and newer models there is the 2.5L V6 which has 155 hp.

the VIN is a long alphanumeric sequence that is stamped into the engine compartment either on an inner wing or the bulkhead. it will also be in one of the front footwells under the carpet and probably on a metal tag inside the windshield. The manufacturer should use that to determine what the original key was

The biggest tire in the world is located off I-94 near Allen Park, Michigan. It's 12-tons of ridiculousness.

on my 2004 tracker this was caused by a bad relay on the right side inner fender under the hood

That is a huge job. You have to remove the transmission before you can remove the flywheel. The main seal is under the flywheel/flexplate.

Rick

Visit my auto blog at http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

Rule of Thumb is usually 4 quarts for 4 cylinders

(add a quart when you change the filter)

So by this rule of thumb does an 8 cylinder motor take 8 quarts?

The 1.6L engine takes 4 total with filter change. Do not over fill.

The wiper arm should have a removable cap at the lowest pivot point where the arm meets the firewall/hood level. With the cap removed there should be a 10-12mm nut exposed that requires loosening and removal to slip the arm off the grooved spindle and re-mount to the readjusted/desired coverage area. Re-tightened once adjusted to to avoid slippage while in operation.

The firing order is 1-3-4-2

6 3/4

you may have a rod knocking and you need to take it to a shop asap

Resynchronize it by holding down both the lock & unlock buttons at same time for at least 7 seconds. Doors should lock & unlock once to confirm that resynchronization worked.

crank seal

The most common cause of this problem is this: The handle that you pull on to move the seat usually has a couple of small wires attached to it that go to the "Locks" on the rails under your seat. One or both of these may be broken. The other not so common cause is that the rails under your seat have become bent or rusted from moisture. The only real fix for this is to pull out your seat and replace it, or on some seats you can pull off the whole sliding assembly from your existing seat, and get a new seat from a scrap yard out of the same model and year vehicle and pull the slider assembly off of it, and re-attach it to your seat.