Dishwashers

Answer The disposal is part of your drain line. It only allows liquid and small particles through it. The whole idea of the disposal is not to allow anything to big to go through the drainage system. The problem is over time the weep holes in the disposal can get clogged with grease. It can be taken apart and cleaned.

You may also want to investigate the trap in the drain as to whether it is the right configuration or it is plugged. We had a similar problem and there was a drinking straw in the pipe!

if it's plastic pipe you can just buy a glue cap and glue it on. If it's galvanized or cast iron pipe you can use a gym cap, (arubber cap that comes with a hose clamp). Just put that on the pipe and tighten it down firmly. this will prevent any sewer gas from coming out of the drain.

check that valves are fully open

Because your losing "volume" possibly the piping is under sized or the internal diameter was reduced by mineral deposits

MACRS is better because it allows you to take bigger deductions in the early years of the project which is a time value benefit.

Some may have a water heating element inside of them, so they are not dependent on having hot water available.

My guess is your garbage disposer was also replaced and they forgot to knock out the plug before connecting the disposer hose/drain It sounds like you have a vacuum breaker on the drain for the dish washer. This is probably just a coincidence but your vacuum breaker needs to be replaced or repaired. It really has nothing to do with the faucet installation.

It is called an air-gap not a vent. If you are asking about Washington State the answer is yes it is required.

When the up stairs toilet is flushing.The toilet tank releases water to flush down the toilet bowl.While the toilet tank draining out water to flush and before refilling .The air that gets trapped before the floater shuts to refill the tank.That may be the air that causes the pressure to blow alarge bubble out from downstairs toilet. Bubbles in the toilet that you flush might mean that you need your sewer line cleaned. A significant amount of water leaves the upstairs toilet in a relatively short amount of time. If the drain pipe to which it is attached is "small" (three inch rather than four inch) or partially plugged or insufficiently graded, a small air pocket can form immediately in front of the oncoming waste and water. It will follow the path of least resistence. If it requires more pressure to continue down the line than is required to escape through the branch line to the downstairs toilet, the downstairs toilet will "burp", especially if it is not vented seperataly from the main vent, or if its' vent is plugged or partially plugged. I agree, first try cleaning the line. Do it right, with a proper size blade or spud running well out of the house. If that doesnt solve the problem, investigate the vent. Answer 1 is TOTALLY incorrect. It is addressing the "flush valve," [also refered to as a "flapper"], suggesting the possibility of air "ingested" before it recloses [to allow refill of the tank] "may" be the source of the air bubbling out the downstairs toilet. That air simply goes into the upstairs toilet bowl, not down the drain/waste pipe. Therefore, it cannot be related to the bubbling downstairs. Answer 2 is also totally incorrect due to the fact it is refering to bubbling in the toilet which is flushed [the "upstairs" toilet], which is not related to the bubbling in the downstairs toilet described in the question. I agree with the explanation in Answer 3, with the exception that I would visually check [with a powerfull flashlight] the vent stack for the downstairs toilet [or at least the viewable section of a shared stack], understanding of course, that unless the vent stack is a perfect straight shot, a visual check would be limited to only the straight run section. In our area, over 95% of houses are single story, and checking the drain/waste vents from the roof is no big deal. On two or three story houses, it may be better to try cleaning the line(s), assuming that adequate cleanouts are available. Many of our older houses were not required to have cleanouts, and we have break into walls or dig earth to install them. Otherwise, IF the client WILL NOT go for the cost of add-on cleanouts, we HAVE to work through the roof vent stack opening. This is not uncommon for our area.

With a manufacturers leak repair kit normally supplied as an add on device

It will spew water and shredded garbage into the cabinet under the sink! Don't do it! Okay, all kidding aside I believe what you are talking about is the hookup with 1 sink basin vs. a double basin sink into a single p-trap. You will want to use either a center outlet continuous waste drain, or, an end outlet continuous waste drain depending on where the sink drain is located. The disposal will go into 1 side of the tee and the other sink basin into the other side wher the 2 will be combined into 1 pipe to the single p-trap. The sink having one trap for each side would be optimum but if your house is not plumbed that way this is the next best thing. The continuous waste tee does have a baffle in it that directs the flow down to the trap this does restrict the flow somewhat and if the disposer side of the sink ever cloggs while the other side is okay I would start by looking here as long as the disposer is running.

If you used disposal tap for dishwasher drain there is a knock-out inside the tap that must be removed.Take a large screw driver and hammer and remove knock-out.

Yes it can but it will be at additional cost. The waste pipe from the sink will have to be p-trapped to inside the wall or into an adjacent cabinet. In some cases this would be an expensive alternative, however if money is no option, then it is reasonable to say it can usually be done.

The cucumber came first, pickles are just sour cucumbers.

The sound is the dishwasher draining into the sink drain. It is a normal sound.

A built-in dishwasher is tangible, but you have to be careful with this one. It is not personal property as it is a part of the house, and therefore considered real estate.

Because they share a common drain line which is clogged. Gravity and a common drain pipe means the back-up would appear in the downstairs drain, even if it appeared to be cleared in the upstairs drain. Be glad you are not just slightly uphill from the clog. The sink line line needs to be roto rootered from upstairs, through downstairs, through to the common basement drain to clear out the clog.

Filter at bottom is plugged, or you need anew pump.

The disposal has to be in place so that the drain on the dishwasher is connected. If you do not have a disposal or are removing it, there is a extension tube for the drain that has the dishwasher tube in it. The disposal does not have to work for the dishwasher to drain. The water is run through the disposal so that any food particles get ground before going in the drain. After a while, the disposal will begin to smell if it is not run.

I have used/cooked in melmac plates/bowls most of my life... in a microwave. I use and buy melmac to this day! Can you microwave in it... yes ....I do it all the time.....BUT, I have had only 5 pieces crack. Why do they crack/break when you microwave in them? All I can do is tell you my 40+ years experience with them. IF the melmac piece has (In My Opinion, and what I have read/heard) an air pocket in it, it can crack/break. I have had that happen only 5 times in my 40+ years experience. Melmac will get 'very' hot before the food gets hot as well, in a microwave. There will be warnings 'Not' to microwave melmac, but I have done it most of my life, and will continue to do so. :)

I have 'Never' had a piece of Melmac litterly 'blow up' when microwaving food.

In a microwave, I will only use 2 things....Melmac or Glassware...and I break more glassware than Melmac...mostly due to dropping it (glassware) or banging it too hard in the dish sink against some other dish . I LOVE my Melmac!!!!...and glassware...LOL.

DJ (North Central Texas)

You CAN put aluminum in a dishwasher. It's just the risk of chemical reaction caused by some detergents, water supplies, and wash temperatures. Details omitted.

in a women

the materials used to make a dishwasher include:

stainless steel

plastics (PVC)

copper

installation

poly-carbonate

The sucking noise is usually a good thing, it means that the drain is working properly, the noise comes from a swirl in the water that goes counter clockwise and pulls the water. That noise is actually air. joe jersey

1st you need to know where the leak is. The only time a copper fitting or brass fitting will fix a leak is in the watersupply connection.