I had the same problem and it is your oxygen sensor.
Check to see if your getting fuel at the Multi Point Injection Intake disconnect the Fuel line and then turn the ignition on and see if your getting fuel coming out of that line. If not then you have a fuel pump problem. I discovered with my 92 Dodge Colt that after it sat at my mechanics place for seven months and I finally got it back cause he never fixed it, the fuel pump doesnt work now and the tank got drained empty so I suspect the pump got corroded or rusty because of the tank being empty. You have to see if it is getting fire and fuel and has compression. The gas is porbably bad and neeeds replaced.
First of all, it is impossible to separate the engine and transmission inside the hood, as the compartment is too cramped, so to access the seal, you need to pull the engine and the transmission out of the car at the same time, separate them on the floor, then replace the seal.
95% of the work is getting the engine in and out.
Have a system for organizing stuff you remove so that you can put it back on again without too much searching
You'll need a standard set of tools (wrenches, sockets, extensions, universal joints, pliers, etc.) as well as a mid sized pry bar, ball joint seperator, jack stands, jack and engine hoist and a hammer
You should also note that I use both "transmission" and "transaxle". They're the same thing.
1 drain coolant, ATF, engine oil. Note that there are two drain plugs at the bottom of the transaxle
2 remove battery, as well as the plastic tray that supports the battery
3 remove air intake
4 remove radiator and coolant reservoir (note that a lot of coolant will still be in the engine, and will come out, even after the radiator has been drained. The ATF also flows through the bottom of the radiator, and some will spill out too.)
5 remove windshield washer fluid resivoir
6 underneath the washer fluid, there will be a carbon canister, a big (about 1.5L) black plastic cylinder. Remove it
7 The power steering pump will have to be disconnected from the engine. To do this, you need to align holes in the pulley with the bolt heads, such that you can fit a socket in there to disconnect it. To achieve this alignment, you need to turn engine a bit. Jack up the car, and as the suspension pushes the wheels down, you'll see a rubber plug in the splash shield above and in front of the drivers side front wheel. Remove the plug. You will see a 19 mm hex head. With a long extension, you can rotate this, (like you're tightening it, otherwise you run the engine backwards) and the enging will turn over, and you'll be able to line up the bolts with the holes in the pulley. Loosen the bolts, and you will be able to take tension off the belt, allowing you to remove the belt and then the bolts.
8 If you have AC, you need to unbolt the compressor, which you can get at from underneath the car. It's behind the engine, near the bottom, and uses a V-belt.
9 Get some wire and wire the AC compressor and the power steering pump out of the way, so that the engine can go straight up without hitting them.
10 There are a lot of hoses and wires connecting the engine and transmission to the car. I'm not going to list them all, but you need to disconnect all of them.
11 There are four mount points for the engine/transmission. Two are on the sides, up high, and two are on the bottom, at the front and back. The bottom ones are easy to detatch, in principle. A bolt will run through the center of the mount. You need to detatch it from it's nut, and slide it out. As it is likely rusted like crazy, unbolting it is a pain, and since the engine is resting on it, removing it is no picnic either, but it is possible. As for the ones on the side, if you just remove the center axle, the mount still blocks the engine from coming up. What you need to do is unbolt the bracket that holds the mount on the passger side, via four bolts that are accesed from the wheel well. These bolts have rubber covers over them, that can be seen over top of the tire, when the car is jacked up. As for the drivers side, it is a real pain in the ass. You need to unbolt everything in the surrounding area so that you can push aside all this junk that is attached with rigid tubing, just enough to get wrenches and rachets in there. Be carefull, though, as you don't want a break in your tubing. In order to lift out cleanly, you want the mounting bracket removed from the engine, which for some reason is attached with one bolt and two studs. The studs force you to lift the thing straight up, which is difficult, because there are hoses and tubes in the way, but it is possible after enough fighting.
12 now all the attatches the engine/transaxle to the car is the half-shafts, which turn the wheels. Disconnecting these is a bit of a struggle, but not too bad. First you take off the front wheels, (have someone step on the brake while you do this) and at the bottom of wheel mount, there will be the ball joint. to disconnect it, back off the nut the that holds the ball joint in as far as you can (it will hit something before coming off the stud), and then insert the ball joint seperator between the rubber mount covering the ball joint, and the bottom the piece above it. Hammer in the ball joint seperator until the ball joint pops loose. (This is disturbing if you haven't done it before, but don't worry, just hammer) After it has popped off, you can remove the nut (the stud is lower now) and slide the stud out.
13 next, there is a rubber and metal contraption that connects the stabilizer bar to the wheel mount. If you can unbolt and remove this, that's great, and if not, just saw it off, because it's bent, and you need a new one anyway. They're not much money anyways.
14 Next, put the pry bar between the transaxle and the halfshaft (which has a big black bell shaped thing on the end of it, ideal for getting a bry bar behind) and give the bar a good kick. ( don't be afraid) The half shaft will pop loose. ATF may come out here.
15 pull the brake rotor out (the wheel mount is now quite loose, and this should be easy) and withdraw the halfshaft. cover the half shaft ends in foil to keep them free of grit, and stuff clean rags in the holes left behind, to keep grit out of the transaxle.
16 Lift out the engine and transmission, being carefull not to bump the condensor (looks like a second radiator) if you have AC. Always be on the lookout for things you forgot to disconnect, and lift slowly.
17 To disconnect the engine from the transmission, you will need to remove the bell housing cover, which is a little plate at the bottom of the transmission, on the same plane as the joint between the engine and transmission. Remove the bell housing cover
18 there will be a cable connecting the engine to the transmission. It can be disconnected by removing a couple tiny pins at the engine.
19 unbolt the transmission and engine. Pull them straight apart from each other. A lot of ATF will probably come out here. Foil over everything that could contaminate the transmission.
20 take off the oil pan.
21 there will be an aluminum mount for the rear main seal. Unbolt it, and slide it off the crankshaft.
22 pound out the old rear main seal with a hammer and punch, on alternating sides, to make it come out as straight as possible.
23 hammer in the new rear main seal using a big socket, or something else that large if you don't have any big enough sockets. The important thing is to apply a uniform force over the entire outside of the seal.
24 replace the gasket on the oil pan and on the mount for the old rear main seal. If the oil pan has not been removed before, it might not have a gasket, just RTV. This is a bad idea, and you should put on a real gasket, which they do make.
25 reassemble everything in the reverse order as you took it off. The ball joints will re-engage as you tighten the nut. The half shafts will go back into the transmission with a good kick to the wheel.
Well if it's squealing it either needs tightening or replacing. Once it squeals for a while it will get glazed and never stop squealing. There are products you can spray on it but an old trick it to rub a wax candle on the bottom of the belt with it running, just be careful.
There is also a tab rubbing against the steering wheel. This tab (i think) sends signals from your horn but im not sure. I solved my squaling by placing somthing between the tab and the steering collum.
Both the crank and cam sprockets have timing marks on the sprocket and on the engine. As you face the front of the engine, with the sprockets in front of you, the cam timing mark is approx. 85 degrees right of top center. The crank mark is approx. 10-15 degrees right of top center (piston #1 should be top dead center). Line marks on sprockets with timing marks on block (tin), slip on belt and tighten tensioner. Manually rotate engine 2 complete revolutions and check that both marks are still aligned.
I had the same problem with 93 Colt and troubleshooters told me the ECM was bad. Incorrect...the problem lies inside your distributor. There is a part that looks like one of those batteries that connect to the bottom of a portable hand tool. I think its called a coil or coil package and is beneath the rotor inside the distributor. Bought one used for $20.00, reinstalled the entire guts of the distributor and car cranked right up. No problems since. Did not remove distributor shaft.
you could have a cracked distributor cap Check condition of ignition system including distributor cap, rotor and ignition cables. (You didn’t mention engine size because Colt did have a 1.6L “distributorless” engine….it had an ignition block which could crack causing voltage leakage, especially when moisture is about. It is a block where all the ignition cables meet.) If cap, rotor or cables look suspect, change them. With the cables, buy a tube of dielectric grease and use at both ends of the cables to connect to the cap and the spark plugs. Even if the cables look relatively new and you are reluctant to change them, minimally, buy the grease and grease the ends. It helps keep the moisture out and the voltage “in”.
the 2.4 liter engine is 1,3,4,2
Looking into the motor #1 is on your left.firing order is 1 3 4 2 from left to right.
I got a 92 colt and I believe # 1 is on the opposite side. The firing order 1 3 4 2 is correct.
I have a different . I'm looking at the Chilton's (1971-1989 Colt) and it has a diagram indicating that for all engines of that year the #1 cylinder is nearest the front of the engine (the front of the engine is not the side of the engine near the front of the car, but it is the side of the engine with the timing belt). If this is true, than as you stand in front of the car looking at the engine, #1 is farthest right. The order from left to right is 4-3-2-1 (this is the same as saying that the order from front (the timing belt side of engine) to back is 1-2-3-4. The firing order for all engines of that year is 1-3-4-2. In fact, according to Chilton's, all engines all years have the cylinders in the same order (from front of engine to back 1-2-3-4) and the firing order is always 1-3-4-2.
depending on the style of belt, on the alternator belt there is an adjustment just below the slider holding the alternator, you just simply tighten it until belt becomes tight.
I am sorry to sound lame, but that info you will find in a shop manual for the car and year in question. I just bought a Chilton CD. You can have any cars on that and it contains EVERTYTHING you need. I changed my colt distributor within minutes. By the way colts have bad distributors!! eheheh Sonny L. electric wiring diagram at this link in pdf format : http://www.geocities.com/berserko_1/c50/ sometimes mitsubishi/colt/mirage distributors of that model do fail early, a distributor for the galant of the same year model will fit and it's believed to work better. -freebsdkid
Hard job since it is fromt wheel drive. You need trans and engine holding fixtures etc.
You need to disconnect all wiring and linkages to motor and transmission, and then drop front clip. If you are lucky, all you will need to do is unfasten struts from body and lift car of engine/transmision assembly. Leaving behind engine and trasnny with drive axles intact. Not an easy job. Better to have a professional do it for you. Can be expensive.
the Vaccume Brake Booster is bad.
fuel injectors need to be cleaned and/or fuel filter needs to be replaced..it can also be for numerous reasons..like a bad sensor or an early indication of a failing ecu..but in most cases it's one of the 2 fore mentioned faults.if you do clean the injectors and replace the fuel filter and the car continues to 'stall' then IMMEDIATELY stop using it and see a mechanic because if it's a failing ecu; continuance of operating the car will blow the ecu beyond repair, ecus are expensive to replace and without it the car will be written-off. -freebsdkid
I had the same problem and the mechanic told me my seals were cracked. But then it wouldn't smoke again....in the winter, when the oil was thicker because of the cold. He suggested using 30w50 or close to racing weight as possible. I also used an oil additive by STP to stop smoking, and it really worked!
We actually had this problem on our boat with a 5.7 v8. the problem with ours was distributor. You might want to check the coil. and also just check the main harness to see if anything is loose.
In my opinion I would answer yes, bcuz I have done this kind of work, although in other vehicles, I hav been working on a 91 colt. But I always consult a shop where most of this type work is performed, especially on any major job. There are certians minor things to consider. Also, you have not specified if your'e doing the work yourself. If it is at a shop, they will know more precisely.
Not nessesarily. Mitsubishi changed the orientation of the engine at one point so that it's "reversed." Check the orientations of the different models you're looking at swapping from/to.
Actually I have a 1995 summit which are the same, my parts car is a 1994 and there are nemerous parts that are slightly different and non-compatable. for the most part it should bolt right in.
If it is like the 89 Colt 1.5 liter engine, it is bolted into the transmission bell behind the engine, below the intake manifold, on the left side. It is really hard to see, and harder to work on. However, I was able to change my solenoid by removing the car battery and air cleaner and intake hose so that I had easy access to the left side of the engine. Then I removed the distributor cap so I could squeeze my right arm behind the engine to unscrew the wires to the solenoid.
Sincerely, I recommend you buy a shop manual. Haynes or chiltons (for the inexpensive cost) are good manuals to consult. I use Motor or Mitchl manuals.The job you are questioning is quite an involved one.
You must at least, posess good mechanical skills. As this proceedure, if not done correctly, will render ur car useless. It basically involves removing parts and placing them back but, you must have the proper tools and, the manual in order to see the pictures or Figs.
Still want to know? Ok. Keep in mind, that this is a 2 man job, and that this procedure works better for an engine that has the existing belt still, but will work on one that has broken off. It just has a few more things to consider.
1- Apply emergency brake.2- Raise vehicle and support with stand.3- Remove front left wheel.4- Jack up engine a bit, to relieve weight on motor mount which must be removed on that same side the wheel came off.
5- Remove #1 sparkplug and bring that #1 piston to TDC. (Top Dead Center) To do this, have someone tap-crank the engine till u can visually see the piston come up. Important: #1 piston must come up on compression stroke!! In order to figure this out, use either of two ways. Either place a rolled piece of tissue onto the opening of the sparkplug hole, (as piston comes up on compression stroke ONLY, the tissue will pop out). Or, if you can block the hole with a finger (just snug) you will feel the compression blow by your finger. This SHOULD bring the timing marks to their respective places.
Note: (If you DONOT feel pressure come out of the sparkplug hole, you may have really bad piston rings. If so, this work is not needed, another engine is).
6- Disconnect NEG battery cable.
7- Remove motor mount.
IMPORTANT= Before removing all I am about to explain, you MUST loosen the Crankshaft center bolt first!! With the help of all the belts still on it will be hard, but, you must find a way to stop the lower crankshaft pully from rotating! If this pully rotates, the #1 piston will loose its correct timing position and YOU MUST re-do step #5 ((I KNOW, I HAVE DONE THIS)) If you do not have a tool that can hold the pully, you can try this.> NOTE: some people use a pry bar and wind up cracking the pully! Don't do it to that point. This pully has several holes in it. Using a chain, Bolt it at top where the motormount goes. Bring the slack down along side this pully. Find a small bolt that will fit in the holes with out having to screw in. If it does, all the merrier.
8- With the chain in place, place a pry bar (big screw driver like tool) in between engine and pully (with EXTREME caution)not crack anything plastic or the edge of the pully, or with causing warpage. (sorry, this is one way if you do not have that special tool that holds this pully).
NOTE: you must remove the lower plastic cover under the engine just in the front!
Now, when you removed the wheel, you did it so you can access this little hole that is covered by a rubber cap, remove this cap. Thru this hole you will see the crankshaft bolt. NOTE: if it does not seem aligned, lower or raise the jack to make it aligned. Place the correct size half inch socket over the nut. Insert a half inch ratchet extension, and attach a breaker bar to it. Place and hold the prybar in place and have the 2nd man turn the breaker bar counterclockwise until she breaks loose. THIS MUST BE ACHIEVED
9- Now remove belt by loosening the alt tensioner to slack the belt, and any other component that has a belt (ie, A/C, pwr str etc). Once this is done, begin lossening the screws or bolts to the pully of the water pump and crankshaft. They basically have 4 screws ea. Crankshaft pully has the center bolt too, remember! (DO NOT MIX THEM with others)
AGAIN: DO NOT allow crankshaft pully to budge!! Once the crank pully is off, you will notice its timing mark by means of a pin on the gear. Now, the timing mark which is to match with this pin looks like a pimple and is located at a 1'Oclock position on the engine. (In other words, look at this gear as if it were a clock. The little hand MUST be pointed to 1 O'clock. Once the pullys are off, remove the timing belt covers (2 pcs). There are several 10mm screws- don't mix them.
10- Now, at the top, you will see the camshaft, which will reveal part of the belt. What you want to check for is the timing mark on the belt pully sprocket (THIS ONE STAYS ON -DONOT REMOVE). This mark is in the shape of a triangle >. This mark must be pointing to 3 O'clock, at its counter timing mark, which is located about an inch away on the engine head. AGAIN: You must have a manual in order to understand this. If it is not, careful rotating adjustment must be done so that ALL timing points match.
11- Now you must just loosen the timing belt tensioner spring (a spring with a bolt thru it)
12- Now loosen the timing belt tensioner (the bolt is on the right side of it)
13- Once this is done, the belt can now be removed.
TO REPLACE.. follow these steps in reverse order. Make sure to check timing afterwards with timing light.
IMPORTANT: You can tell if #1 piston is at Top Dead Center, by removing the distributor cap and checking to see, that the rotor points to #1 wire on the cap. The distributor cap has the numbers on it.
It is computer controlled and nonadjustable,.
All I can tell you is keep looking. It definitely has one. Look on the back side of the engine from the top and from under the car. Keep looking and you will find it.AnswerHi lie on your back at the front of the car and look to the passenger side of the block theres actually a hole for youre hand to go through
First, remove the door handle, it has 2 screws one in each side. After that, between the door panel and the window handle there is a small rubber ring, push it towards the panel until you can see a small lock in the shape of a U, with a flat screwdriver, take the lock out and the window handle comes off. With care, start locating the small plastic "nails" with which the door panel attaches itself to the metal. Try pulling the nails evenly as they tear apart or damage the panel. After all the panel is loose, pull it upwards to release the little thing that licks the window and then out, there you go, panel out.
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