Dodge Coronet

you will have to decipher the serial# on the engine block, should be on passenger side on the block down below the freeze plugs.

According to Chrysler Historical Collection archives, the production numbers for the 1968 Dodge Coronet 500 was 2,527; the Coronet R/T was 569; and no convertibles were ever available for the Coronet Super Bee model.

go to manheimgold.com and look your car up to get the price.

about 3,600 Lbs.

#1, a 66 coronet never came with a 440 so someone must have installed it, make sure the radiator is large enough to handle the 440 if your having heating problems, you want that engine to run 190 degrees on the open road and not much over 200 in traffic.

there is no fuse box

it just pulls up off of the splines on the motor stud, you can buy a wiper arm removal tool to make it easier to get off.

Well, first you have to remove the stainless steel trim. It snaps into clips that are screwed into the windshield frame. You have to be careful, it is delicate. I can't really give you a good technique to do it, but you can start tugging and prying, and figure out where the clips are and pry at them directly. If you have never done it before, you will probably bend some trim.

After you have removed the trim, you should be able to see a locking strip embedded in the windshield gasket. Find the end, pry it out and pull it out all the way around the windshield.

Finally, take a utility knife and stick it in the locking strip groove and cut the lip of the windshield seal off where it goes over the windshield. Yes, this will destroy the seal, but if you want to get the glass out without breaking it, then you pretty much have no choice. New ones are 50 to 150 bucks it seems. Anyway once you have the seal cut you can push out on the windshield from the inside, it may stick a bit at first as they usually stick to the seal a bit. be gentle but firm. sometimes I use my feet as it spreads the load over a large area of the windshield to help prevent cracking. take your time and use care. Once the windshield is out you can pull off the rest of the windshield seal and clean everything up.

go to the library and get a chiltons repair manual for your year dodge.

pretty rare as you don't see a lot of 69 coronets anymore, especially convertibles.

5x5

every color available on the regular coronet was available on the R/T.

Any 68 coronet is rare these days, you don't see many at all anymore at car shows, I have seen a couple of 68 R/T's in my area but they are real rare.

go to the library and get a chiltons repair manual from 67 to get those specs.

I believe redline is 5,000 RPM.

If it's not under the dash on the drivers side look in the glove box to your left.

I don't know how many were made but I would say they are pretty rare as I worked for a dodge dealer in 68 and only remember seeing 1 R/T that came in that had the disc brakes on it.

any 68 coronet is pretty rare these days as I only see a few at car shows year after year.

if no markings on the front fender it is either a 225 slant six, 318 or a 383 2 bbl., all other engines had a front fender emblem stating the engine size.

If it's not on top of the brake pedal look on the brake reservoir.

the brake shoes are probably real tight on the drums keeping the drum from coming off, look either on the backing plate behind the brakes or possibly on front of the drum on that model you will see 2 oval slots that should have rubber plugs in them, take the plugs out and look inside and you will see a gear wheel and a bar that rests on the gear, get 2 screwdrivers and push the bar out of the way as you turn that gear downward with the other screwdriver, this backs the brake shoes away from the drum so you will be able to pull the drum off, keep turning the gear until the drum can be pulled off.

that all depended on the engine and rear end gearing in the car.

Heater Core remove/replace in dodge 1500 truck 1995-01. I can pull it in 3.5 hours. putting it back takes about 2 hours, plus charging the AC, about one more hour more. Having a friend around really helps. Disconnect the battery before attempting any work to avoid a short.

1)Remove first screw on plastic door sill on both sides. (the things on top of rug where door closes)Remove kick panels.

2)Remove panel under steering wheel.

3)Remove two nuts holding up steering wheel.

4)Remove screws where windshield meets dash board.

5)Remove 2 bolts left and right under dash but against sides of car (under kick panels).

5a) There is a square box in the center of the dash by the floor. Take it off and take those nuts off. And disconnect the wire harness and the get the panel loose and down out of the way.

6)Dashboard is now loose and can be pulled towards the seats.

7)On right side of dash hook a wire way up to screw that holds moulding clips, or pull the dash towards the seat and put a jackstand under the passenger side.

8)The whole heater box is now visible.

9) You've got to remove vacuum lines, controls, and electric plugs from heater box.

10) Now the secret: there are 2 screws holding it to fire wall on inside (one has a ground wire attached). The other is in the upper right hand corner facing up. The easiest way to get to the bolts holding the ground wire is to take out the glove compartment and then take out the airbag.

11) there are 4 nuts holding it from engine side of firewall(one is behind the electric panel on the passanger side). Remove all four of these.

12) Remove heater hose clamps with a hose clamp plier. This will take time, these clips are hard to get off.

13) Drain the AC freon.

14)the AC lines require a special tool that costs $9-12 at parts store. the kit has 6 plastic widgets. use the one that fits. play with an AC fitting near the radiator for practice first.

15) you should be able to pull the heater box out now.

16) Remember the dashboard is just pulled up high enough on the right to get at the heater box.

17) It is a good idea to change the A/C evaporator core while doing this job. They are both in the same box.

If it's a 4bbl. it's a magnum 383 and it has 335 horse.

look at the serial number is the only way.

If you look at the VIN Tag on the drivers side dash cap, the first 4 letters/numbers should be WS23 for a Coronet R/T 2-Door Hardtop or WS27 for a Coronet R/T 2-Door Convertible. The "W" stands for Dodge Coronet Model and the "S" for Sports Line (R/T). Standard engine would be a 440 cid with the 426 cid Hemi, as the only option. This could be verified on the VIN tag as well as the fifth letter, the letter "L" for the 440 and the letter "J" for the 426 Hemi.