Floppy Disk Drives

The floppy drive cable would be about half the width than the other.

MC Double Def DP the "Disk Protector"

It's not at all incorrect to be able to access files on the hard drive from the floppy. In fact, it would seriously impair the usefulness of the floppy as a rescue utility if you couldn't.

After you mechanically install it into the slot of the computer, you have a wire that connects to the mother board(I believe).

You may have lost the boot record on the hard drive or the hard drive may have failed. Try booting from a floppy or CD, whatever rescue boot device you have. If you can look at the C: drive from the alternate boot device you may have just lost the boot record. If you can't get to the C: drive you may have either a drive or a controller failure.

When you delete a file on a filesystem all that is really done is that the disk "forgets" where the data is stored. It remains on the disk until it is overwritten.

Formatting is a more technical term than most people understand. A common misconception is that formatting is simply deleting all data on a disc. In fact formatting is more of a "reconfiguration" of the disk. Formatting is the process where a system of data storage is applied to the disk. As a bi-product of this the system which remembered the layout of the origonal data is replaced and therefore the data inaccessible. It is however a common feature of most formatting tools to physically destroy the data as part of the formatting process.

Although you have a manual shift on the transfer case the hubs lock in on vacuum. Chances are you have bad vacuum lines going to the hubs (about $150+ at a Kia dealer or $40 at your local service station). If not the lines, it will be the seals in the hubs.

Normally the second removable drive, A = first removable or floppy drive, if a second floppy drive is installed it is drive B. First hard disk is Drive C, second Hard disk is Drive D, etc. You can also map the drive letters to the virtual network connections, so that Drive P could be used as a network connection.

Sorry if I'm doing this incorrectly, but I've never been here before. I've not yet tried any of this because I've not yet gotten it all straight in my head; partly due to conflicting info on the net. Here goes... Short Answer: No. Long Answer: You can make a new OEM CD from a retail one. An "OEM" install is a bit of a misnomer. An OEM can do a normal, full retail install though it is unlikely. For the purposes of what I'm typing, a retail install gets activated, while an OEM one is "locked" to the BIOS chip and doesn't need to be. (yes, this means you can move to another computer as long as it will accept your BIOS chip) First, be sure you HAVE an "OEM" install. Search your drive for wpa.dbl. If your installation was activated, you should find the file is much larger than 2K (I believe I read 12K somewhere). If it's locked, then the file is never used so it remains at about 2K (1158 bytes on this system). It should be in Windows\System32. (note that you can retain activation for a normal reinstall by backing up and re-inserting this file) How it works: XP looks for wpa.dbl. If it's "active" it tries to match your hardware to it. If it's not, it looks for the "lock files" and tries to match them to the chip. If both fail, you need to activate Windows. Now for the nasty parts: 1. Extract the contents of the CD to a folder on your hard drive somewhere. Get a utility such as ISOBuster to grab the boot loader. 2. Might as well go ahead and slipstream in any service packs or updates you're missing (instructions everywhere). 3. Locate the three oembios.* files on your computer. Unfortunately, I actually have four (dat, sig, bin, cat). I could be remembering wrong, but I'd have sworn it was three. These files will need to go in a particular folder structure in the folder with the CD's files. This is part of where I started getting lost since different folder names kept getting used everywhere I looked. The folders' names will resemble env. variables in that System32 is something like $system$, Windows is $windows$, etc. Seems that $windows$ can be abbreviated $$ but, like I said, I started getting lost. I understood enough to know that the structure basically "maps" to the real structure so the files just get copied. 4. There's a few ways to tell Windows to use the files but it seems that all of them require you to give up control over installation options by telling setup to work in "unattended" mode. I remember "answers.txt" and it seems an inf file is an option. Essentially, it's a file that you tell setup to get all it's answers from instead of asking the user. 5. Get your REAL product key. The one on the tower is apparently not it. It's in the registry. Go to "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion". It's not in the value named ProductID though that looks like one, it's in DigitalProductID. But it's encrypted. But..! It matched ProductID pefectly on this system when I first got it. After a system restore, it's not a match anymore. It's a binary value that, if opened, matches ProductID after all with extra stuff on both ends. A program named "Jellybean" something-or-other is recommended everywhere to get the real key. And that matched none of the others. The key will go in the file from the previous step. 5a. You may not even need your key. Go to www.microsoft.com and you can find that they've provided generic keys for several OSes. Why? Well, it never gets activated anyway and it has to have the custom chip and oembios files so why not? 6. Burn your CD. But be careful! You need a disc-burning program that allows for the more advanced options (Nero is the one most often recommended) due to the way the bootloader works. Alternatively, XP comes with CDImage (mine didn't, but "they" imply it does) which can create an iso that most burning software can use easily. Or search for CDImageGUI and find that someone made a GUI that assembles the command-line for the rest of us (CDImage is a console-app); it comes with CDImage and the bootloader so it's fairly easy to use. Back up everything! Cloning the drive, or simply using a different drive, is a very good idea. Cross your fingers, say some prayers and reboot. I would absolutely LOVE it if people could fix this up. This is what I've gathered from reading the tutorials from dozens of people who've done it minus most of the conflicting info. I'd like to try this but I'm just not comfortable with what I've found so far. I hope this helps someone...

No, it will not be in a compatible format. Floppy disks must be formatted in FAT in order for a PC to read them. There may however be Linux tools that will be able to read the data.

If there is a floppy disc in the drive, it means, it is being read to / from. To stop the noise, simply eject the disc. (Making sure that what ever program using the floppy has finished with)

Hope this helps, if I can help any more, please don't hesitate to shout.

Be safe

Nige
Cadishead Computers

i dont know dam shyt!

Make sure the roots have water while it is cold outside. Cover it when it is cold outside. Cut it down to the green parts when all chance of frost is gone. They are pretty hardy.

its probably on the front right side of the axle and you just unscrew it and put a new one in if you are lucky. I just changed mine in my Chevrolet silverado and had to put in a new wiring harness

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On a 97 Blazer it is underneath the battery. Remove the battery and the plate it sits on. It is below there.

Yes, but it depends on what/why you are asking. There are many utilities such as Partition Magic that you can run to reformat/repartition or scan a hard disk to retrieve data from previous formats/partitions, etc. Undelete and ER Lite are two data recovery utilities that I have used that work, if that is what you are asking. The previous data is still available assuming it hasn't been overwritten or destroyed using other more secure means. If your question can be more direct, a more direct answer can be given. Hope this helps.

While not as valuable as vintage World Series souvenirs, memorabilia documenting attendance at early All-Star contests are highly collectable. Factors in determing pin value are basically size, and condition, condition, condition. Your pin, in excellent original condition, would be worth $75-125 to collectors.

The maximum storage capacity of a floppy disk that uses the 64kb keyword is 64 kilobytes.