GMC Envoy

See the discussion page for amplifying information. Pull the wiper stalk toward you, the wiper should stop.

i have faul p1345

Trouble code P0128 means:Coolant thermostat (coolant temp below thermostat regulating temp)

Trouble code P0230 means:Fuel pump primary circuit malfunction

The parts just cost me $250, a distrutor cap, wires, plugs, and rotor.

The labour was 1.5 hours

The Ambient Temperature Sensor is located behind the grill and mounted to the radiator support with a "push in" connector. Remove the screws that attach the upper portion of the grill and pull the grill away from the vehicle enough to access the sensor.

Make sure the motor mounts are good.I assume the strut(s) is not the problem.

Inspect the lower ball joints and the bushings for the control arms.

Remove the spark plug wires from each spark plug. Turn the spark plug out with a 5/8 deep well socket. Reverse the process to install the new spark plugs.

Under the hood on the driver's side. I just paid $49.99 to Jiffy Lube to change it in hopes that the "service engine" light would go off. It did for 2 days and now it's on again.

Remove the plastic interior panel to access the rear of the tail light assembly.

www.trailvoy.com Envoy enthusiasts forum!

hook OBD II scanner up and clear codes. Disconnecting battery doesn't always work on OBD II

turn the key to the on position press the gas pedal 3 times and it will reset itself.

This is a common problem on GM vehicles. About 95% of the time it is the fuel sending unit. Roughly 5% of the time it is a guage cluster problem. Typical fuel sender symptoms: Fuel guage reads empty or full, but then swings to the actual level sometimes over bumps. Fuel guage reads normal level, then swings to empty or full over bumps. This is caused by the "Bifercated Fingers" on the fuel sending unit wearing out. The fuel sending unit is in the fuel tank, and sometimes it is very expensive. Typical guage cluster symptoms: Fuel guage needle vibrates so rapidly it looks like a blur. Usually other guages will not be working properly either.

The sending unit seldom fails in these trucks. The usual culprit is the stepper motor in the cluster itself. The stepper motors can be replaced if you can do some fine soldering and feel like pulling the gauge cluster out.

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You have to scroll through the DIC screens. The procedure is in the manual.

Your speakers are probably messed up in some way, I would remove your door molding and take a look at them to see if they have any holes or tears in them. Also it could be a bad CD with scratches on it. Your best bet is to upgrade from your factory speakers to after market ones as well as your in-dash receiver to something after market. Have the speakers and the receiver installed by a professional, most places like Best-Buy, Circuit City, and Radio Shack can accommodate you for a decent fee.

are you changing the hub and bearing assembly or the or just the hub? either way ther are a few different ways of doing this. the easiest way, if you are doing it yourself, is to call a salvage yard, and ask for a spindle. this is the "housing" for the "hub and bearing assembly". you replace this by first raising the wheel in question. trhen take it off. remove the brake caliper and brake rotor. do this by removing the two bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle. if the rotor has a lip on the outer edge you may have to use a pry bar or large screrw driver to pry the caliper piston back to get it off. once this is done, hang the caliper some where out of the way with zip ties or a coat hanger or what ever you have. i recomend the bracket on the strut that holds the brake hose. remove the rotor by striking it with a rubber mallet if it isn't already loose. set it aside. next remone the axle nut. these should be 32mm or 1 1/4 inch nuts. try to use six point sockets. after that remove the two nuts/bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the spindle. by now you should have figured out what the spindle is. if not put back what you have taken off and take your car to a shop. if you got passed the last step, great! next remove the nuts that hold the outer tie rod and ball joint to the spindle. once the nuts are off you will you will need to strike the spindle with a large hammer. dont hit it just anywhere. carefully hit it where the tie rod and ball joint are connected. be careful not to hit the threads of the ball joint or the tie rod. if your car has abs you will also have to remove the abs sensor. finaly lift the spindle off the ball joint and pull it off. install the new/used one in the reverse order. if you insist on having new parts, buy a new hub and bearing assembly, perform the same steps, and take what you have to a maching shop. tghey will remove the old assembly with a hydrauilc press, and install your new parts with the same tool.

What you will need:

-Large and long Phillips or flathead screwdriver

-8mm ratchet (battery)

-10mm ratchet (bolts)

-Throttle body cleaner (I use Berrymans B-12 chemtool)

Now to business:

Step 1: Turn ignition off and disconnect battery.

Step 2: Disconnect the feed line from the fuel pressure regulator. This is located on the front corner of the resonator near the battery. Just pull it off.

Step 3: Remove the screws form the airbox. The one in the front corner is kinda tricky but a long screwdriver and a flashlight will make it easy.

Step 4: Remove the airbox by lifting straight up.

Step 5: Disconnect the air injection hose from the bottom of the intake tube. Squeeze the sides of the clasp and pull down.

Step 6: Disconnect the little brown clip attached to the intake air temp sensor harness. Its tricky, just keep tugging at it. Notice how it opens up in a "C" shape.

Note: At this point you can either set the intake tube aside or unplug the temp sensor and remove the tube completely.

Step 7: Remove the two bolts securing the resonator (blue) and loosen the hose clamp on the throttle body (red).

Step 8: Lift out the resonator. NOTE!!! Make sure you disconnect the crankcase vent hose at the same time.

Ooh, color!

Step 9: Unplug the two wire sets from the throttle body.

Step 10: Unbolt the four bolts mounting the throttle body.

Okay, now you have your throttle body freed up. Gently wiggle it out and grab your can of cleaner. Mine wasn't really dirty but did have a good layer of black grap coagulated on the inside. Just remember that it is supposed to be SHINY, so shiny I kept getting lens flare.... Just blast away at the crud and it should basically melt off. If you have to, you can gently move the butterfly valve with your finger, but beware it is sharp. Use the whole can of cleaner if you want, it cost you what 2 bucks? Once it's nice and shiny, go ahead and put it all back together.

Your done!

WARNING: I found out the interesting way that throttle body cleaner is really angry stuff (note the color of my hand above). When I did this, I just figured I'd spray the crap out of it in the parking lot where I was working. One can and one puddle later I had it all done and was working on something else. I went and got some tools out of the back and came around to the front and it felt like I stepped in a pile of crap. Instead, my foot sunk about an INCH into the ASPHALT. The cleaner totally turned the pavement into oatmeal. Word of advice, don't do this in a driveway or kitchen or get it on anything in general. Oh, here's a pic. It also took the tread off my shoes .

just use sunocco ultra 93 it should be fine.

Subscription run out? Check the fuse.

Most commonly the problem is the driver side memory seat module. I would recommend disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, let the modules "flash" and reconnect the battery. If this doesnt solve your problem, the scope may be beyond the reach of a common backyard mechanic. A TECHII handheld would be most the appropriate to diagnose.

GM Vehicles. Trailblazer, Envoy, Suburban, etc and more. (without transponder)

If both day runners went out, I would check the relay and fuses in the main fuse box under the hood.

It is a relay and an example of one circuit that it controls is the secondary air injection pump circuit.

behind the alternator on the motor block.