Honda CR-V

Up through the 2001 models CR-V's are quipped with timing BELTS that the factory recommends be replaced every 10 years or at 105,000 miles, whichever comes first. Starting with (and including) the 2002 models, the engines have timing CHAINS which do not require replacement.

This is NOT a do-it-yourself project! It requires the partial disassembly of the steering column and wiring to replace the mechanism. Best thing is to contact a reputable repair shop or your local Honda dealer.

The front wheel bearings on the CRV are not integral with the hub therefore must be pressed on at a machine shop. It would be best if you are a novice to consult a manual.

The engine air filter on a 2006 Honda CR-V is found underneath the hood. The air box houses the filter. To see it simply remove the air filter box but unscrewing the hardware.

Not too much to go on with your question -however- assuming that you can open the door from the inside - this could be a problem with the electric solenoid switch that powers the locking mechanism. With the engine off operate the drivers door lock switch in both directions (lock & unlock) and listen for the clicking sound of the solenoid. No clicking sound - check the fuse or relay that control this circuit to make sure they are 'good. If the fuse/relay are good, then the solenoid itself may be bad and you will have to have it replaced.

The whole assembly with the vents, clock and hazard button needs to come out first.

1. Using a wide blade such as a putty knife pry the assembly up a little at the bottom so it clears the dash. 2. Pull the bottom out as it clears, and the top of the assembly will follow. 3. Once you have the assembly out, remove the plugs from the clock and hazard switch. 4. Remove the two Phillips screws that hold the clock into the assembly.

If your clock isn't lighting, try disassembling the housing by prying back on the four clips holding it together and examine the circuit board inside looking for bad solder connections. All of the components on the board are surface mounted. I found a bad solder joint on what appears to be a large resistor partially located beneath the display board. I believe it was labelled "590". I pushed on it with a small screwdriver and saw that the leg of that resistor that is not under the display board had a bad solder joint. I re-soldered that leg and plugged the clock into the harness without placing it back inside the housing and it was lighted again. Placed the board back inside the housing and re-attached it to the vent assembly with the Phillips screws, plugged the hazard and clock plugs back and snapped the whole assembly back into the dash. I now have a working clock.

Hope this helps

From Paul:

This really does work. There are surface-mounted resistors labelled "300" that need to have their solder joints touched up - I did that to my clock because it stopped working. This is a great solution to the problem and it really works - Thank you!

From Dave:

Thanks. I used this and it worked. Owners beware. Honda wants almost 250.00 for a new clock. The 1998 series clocks are flawed with a few bad soldering joints as mentioned. Carefully inspect. Problem is with summer / winter months, eventually crack some of these joints. I only had to re-solder one joint and it worked again. LED's rarely fail over time.

From ice-surfer:

Thanks. I used this on the clock for my 1999 CRV to save significant $$s over a replacement. I could not determine which resistor was causing the problem so I re-soldered the ends of all the large (black) resistors that were accessible.

A note to help others remove the vent/clock/warning light switch assembly: There are 4 clips at the bottom of the assembly that are fit into an undersized rectangular hole. These clips do not lock in, but they provide a significant 'friction fit' The top of the assembly has 4 plastic pieces that act as a hinge. There are 2 clips under each vent, there are no clips in the center under the clock and warning light switch. You don't have to press up on the bottom clips to release them (unlike many electrical connectors) you just use the putty knife to get the bottom rotating towards you.

From Bob677: I love the Internet. This totally worked for me as well. The solder joint that was bad on my was on the resistor that was half under the display. Of course the joint that was bad was the one actually under the display not the one that is easy to get to. I had to de-solder the front two legs of the display and bend the display up out of the way to get to the bad joint. Once the bad joint was re-soldered and the display re-soldered to the board it was back to working order! Ours broke on a cold winter day just as mentioned above. Thanks a bunch!

From Wonderboy70: I love the internet also! I never would have figured this out. Now I see how the guy on eBay can guarantee a repair on them. It sounds like it a very common problem!

I found bad solder joints also on both the 300 ohm resistor partially located beneath the display board, and I also found the 500+/- ohms resistor 1/2 under the display closer to the centre. A few minutes with my iron and electrical solder and it was fixed. From what I read most feel in colder climates the temperature change pulls on the solder joints and they break. I see one post a resistor had fallen right off and they replaced it with one from radio shack. Mine was still there just solder was broke on one end only of two of the three resistors. So if you are handy with a soldering iron and have an extra 30 min. or so you should be able to fix it. Good Luck! Mine works!

Yep I can confirm too....I re-soldered both sides of 3 resistors and all works fine now :).

The one under the led panel was a bit tight tho.

SAE 5W-20. Although on an engine that old (presuming it hasn't been re-built) you can probably increase the viscosity to 10W-30 without any problems.

YES, If Yan can cook, so can I.Nothing is impossible.

Programming the Transmitter

NOTES:

• The system accepts up to three transmitters. The

transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type

memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed,

the code for the first transmitter is erased.

• Entering the programming mode cancels all learned

transmitter codes, so none of the previously

programmed transmitters will work. You must

reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the

programming mode.

• You must complete each step within 4 seconds of

the previous step to keep the system from exiting the

programming mode. Program the transmitters within

10 seconds.

1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the

transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter can be

used for this step.)

3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the

same transmitter used in step 2.

5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same

transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle

to confirm that the system is in programming mode.

7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock"

button on each transmitter. Make sure the power

door locks cycle after you press each transmitter

button to confirm that the system accepted the

transmitter's code.

8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the

programming mode.

I know Honda says to use 5w20. I was wondering myself about using a heavier oil though, maybe 5w30, or switching to semi-synthetic 0w30....any experts care to comment?

The rod holder is probably broken. Just buy a new one for cheap at a Honda parts website.

First: Check the owner's manual. If you're lucky, sometimes the dealer or former owner will have written down the code number somewhere in the manual (inside the front cover or on the page that describes the radio operation are favorite places). Also check the interior of the glove compartment - sometimes the dealer will affix a sticker containing the serial number here, too. IF NOT: You will need to retrieve the radio serial number. On SOME radios you can do this by holding down both the number 1 and the number 6 buttons simultaneously as you turn on the radio. If you have one of those radios, the serial number will appear in the tuning window when you turn it on. IF NOT: You will need to loosen the radio and slide it far enough out of the dashboard in order to get the serial number off the plate that is affixed either on the back, or the bottom, of the radio case. When you have gotten the serial number - either call the Honda Customer Service 800 number, or stop by your local Honda dealer and give them the serial number and they should be able to give you the anti-theft security code for your radio. WRITE IT DOWN SOMEWHERE WHERE YOU WON"T FORGET IT! This will happen every time the battery is disconnected or goes dead.

Due to its age - MANY possibilities: battery needs re-charge or replacing - spark plugs need replacing - ignition wires need replacing - distributor needs replacing - fuel filter is clogged - fuel pump needs replacing. If you are handy, many of these can be done by you, if not, you will need the services of a mechanic. They ARE durable and long-lived, but the parts don't last forever.

Open the glass hatch which will expose the screws holding the taillight housing to the pillar. Remove the screws - pull the lens away from the pillar exposing the back of the bulb socket and wires. turn the bulb socket slightly and remove the socket. Remove and replace the bulb. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal.

https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/RJAAI001_OMANUAL.ASP?YEAR=2000

First: Check the owner's manual. If you're lucky, sometimes the dealer or former owner will have written down the code number somewhere in the manual (inside the front cover or on the page that describes the radio operation are favorite places). IF NOT: You will need to retrieve the radio serial number. On SOME radios you can do this by holding down both the number 1 and the number 6 buttons simultaneously as you turn on the radio. If you have one of those radios, the serial number will appear in the tuning window when you turn it on. IF NOT: You will need to loosen the radio and slide it far enough out of the dashboard in order to get the serial number off the plate that is affixed either on the back, or the bottom, of the radio case. When you have gotten the serial number - either call the Honda Customer Service 800 number, or stop by your local Honda dealer and give them the serial number and they should be able to give you the anti-theft security code for your radio. WRITE IT DOWN SOMEWHERE WHERE YOU WON"T FORGET IT! This will happen every time the battery is disconnected or goes dead.

From the HAYNES MANUAL: With regulator vacuum hose attached: 31-38 psi ::: With regulator vacuum hose disconnected: 40-47 psi.

It's either a bad switch or an intermittent connection in one of the wires.

Sorry. Not familiar with an "iac" valve. Could you please spell it out completely without abbreviating it?

If it is strictly a FRONT WHEEL DRIVE and not an All Wheel Drive - yes, you can - with the front wheels off the ground. There is also a Honda authorized method for towing it with all four down as well.

The gross weight of the 2008 Honda CR-V is 4560 lbs..

Trouble code P0845 means: Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit

Looking into the engine compartment from the front of the vehicle - on the left side of the engine you will see the air intake (large black plastic tube) just underneath this tube you will find the automatic transmission dipstick. See: https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/om/CR0000/CR0000O00207A.pdf