Give or take $175.00 due to the extensive labor involved.

get a mechanic to do it

TCS stands for Traction Control System.

Warning!

The left bank (side closest to radiator) are easily accessbile, right bank can

only be accessed by removing surge tank; this takes a lot of mechanical

apptitude.

Luckybastd says: The so-called "surge tank" is really called an air plenum. You can do it with a set of metric sockets with extensions. Buy the plugs, wires AND a plenum gasket from Hyundai before you start. Follow the steps closely.

1. Remove the six 10mm bolts and remove the engine cover.

2. Unplug the air flow sensor connector and take the wiring loose from the air bellows.

3. Remove the pcv breather hose from the air bellows.

4. Undo the clips holding the air box together.

5. Loosen the clamp holding the air bellows on the throttle body.

6. Remove the top of the air box, the airflow sensor, and the air bellows as an assembly.

7. Undo any electrical connectors attaching to items on the plenum and throttle body.

8. Move the harness out of the way enough that it'll allow you to lift the plenum off. This may involve unplugging connectors in other places and unclipping the harness from ties in order to get the necessary slack.

9. Remove the vacuum line from the EGR valve and the fuel pressure regulator (if you have one).

10. Remove the hose that goes toward the rear of the car from the purge control valve.

11. Remove the four 12mm bolts attaching the support brackets to the rear of the plenum and throttle body.

12. Remove the 12mm bolt attaching the EGR pipe bracket to the rear of the plenum.

13. Remove the two 12mm bolts attaching the EGR valve to the plenum. Take care to not lose the EGR gasket.

14. Remove the 12mm bolts and nuts (7 I think) attaching the plenum to the lower manifold.

15. Lift the plenum off the manifold and tilt up the side opposite the throttle body until it's standing close to vertical near the bottom half of the air box. (There are still coolant hoses attached to the throttle body, so you won't be able to lift that side very far). You can use a bungee or other tie to hold the plenum so it can't fall back down.

16. Cover the openings in the manifold with rags or something similar to prevent anything from falling inside the engine.

17. Remove the spark plug wires.

18. Remove the rear spark plugs.

19. Install new spark plugs in the rear bank.

20. Remove the ignition coils (two 10mm bolts each).

21. Remove the front spark plugs.

22. Install new spark plugs in the front bank.

23. Reinstall the coils.

24. Install the new wires (connecting cylinders as described above).

25. Remove the rags from the intake manifold and remove the plenum gasket.

26. Install the new plenum gasket.

27. Lower the plenum back onto the lower manifold.

28. Start the bolts and nuts attaching the plenum to the manifold, but do not tighten them.

29. Start the bolts attaching the support brackets, the EGR pipe bracket, and the EGR valve, being sure to properly align the EGR gasket and reinstall the wire holder on the lower EGR valve bolt.

30. Tighten the bolts and nuts attaching the plenum to the manifold.

31. Tighten the bolts attaching the items on the rear of the plenum.

32. Reconnect your vacuum and purge hoses.

33. Reconnect your electrical connectors and return the harness to its original configuration.

34. Reinstall the top of the air box, airflow sensor, and air bellows and secure.

35. Reconnect the PCV breather hose.

36. Reconnect the airflow sensor connector and return the wiring to its original holders and configuration.

37. Reinstall the engine cover and tighten the 6 bolts holding it in place.

Where is the o2 sensor on an o4 hyundai sonota 4cyl bank1 sensor2

It means a sensor has tripped a code in the computer. Call around for a mechanic that will check it for you. Could be anything.

I beg you, take it to a mechanic. Me and me friends tryed this, we took off the radiator, horn, hood latch, oil cooler, fans, and A/C compressor, and discovered there is no detentioner, I finally gave up and took it to the mechanic. It took a week, and I wished i just had a mechanic do it in the first place. -- no need to remove the radiator, horn, hood latch, oil cooler, fans, and A/C compressor. What is causing most of the confusion is the lack of a quality service manual for this car. to remove the altenator. You remove the front pass. tire, and the plastic cover that protects the main pulley. (10mm bolts) put the front tire under the car to protect yourself.** I didn't remove the tire, I just turned the wheel outward so I could fit in there. If I had to do over, I would've removed the tire.

Right behind and above the oil filter is the tensioner pulley and bolt (14 mm). loosen that bolt quite a bit. (about an inch) and rotate the tensioner hub and it'll loosen right up. ** this bolt is well hidden. You need to find the tensioner hub, then slide your hand under and a little behind it and you'll find the tensioner bolt. Or use a mirror to find it. It is literally right behind that tensioner hub with the head of the bolt pointed towards the ground. Once you loosen this you'll be in great shape. (Note: this is only accessible through the wheel well, not from above.

remove the engine cover. 6 10mm bolts. (replace the oil fill cap) pull the left side fan. (two 10mm bolts) and a plug. unplug the alternator, and undo the main cable. (10mm nut) remove the bolt that connects the bracket to the engine, just loosen the other bolt so it'll swing up. (I think these are 12mm bolts).

loosen the nuts on the alternator. remove the bolts (have fun trying to get the rear bolt, you can just tap it and it'll fly out. 12m. ** reinstallation of this part was the most time consuming and irritating. Fitting your hand behind the alternator and lining everything up is terrible. Just have patience, you'll get it done. Afterall, you got it apart, right?

remove the alternator ,pry gentle back and forth and up and down until it separates from the front mount. remove the front bracket (two 12mm bolts) Then gentle coax the alternator up and out. you'll have to rotate and twist it, it'll scrap against the radiator a little. It was not my first time working on this car, and I'd say it was challenging. took me about 2 hours total. some of that was finding the right socket or wrench-rachet and determining if I should be on my back or over the hood. Second contributor on 5/8/09: Instructions were very good. I would say that putting on the bottom bolt is a 2 person job. Also, new alternator paperwork said it had a different pulley diameter and to get a 47" belt. However, a new 48" belt did work.

in the fuel tank

The heater blower in a 2001 Hyundai XG300 is located on the passenger side of the engine. The blower resistor will be located on the firewall.

Doesn't have one. It's coil on plug on the front three cylinders which run to rear wires.

Remove wheels

Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place

Remove caliper mounting bolts

Slide caliper off rotor

Use a "c" clamp to fully retract piston into caliper body

Replace inner and outer pads

Replace caliper

PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

Trouble code P0431 means: Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

I was told by numerous mechanics that the transmission has to taken out to change the fluid.

I jacked my car up the other day and noticed a bolt near the driver side tire. I think that's where the fluid comes out if you remove it. The filter is located on the top of the transmission and looks like an oil filter. I haven't tried to change the fluid yet, but I think it's worth a shot being as they tell me it costs around 600 dollars to change the fluid. Yikes!!

You must relearn the Electronic Throttle. Turn the key on for less than a second and leave the key off for 20 seconds. You're set.

Hi My Name Is Terry I Have A XG300 And The Kind Of Power Steering Fluid You Want To Use Is The Same Kind Of Fluid You Use For Your Automatic Transmission Its From Hyundai Dealer Semi Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

The SRS MIL is not illuminated in my Hyundai XG300, but if it is on your vehicle, I'd take it to a shop. Chances are some of your personal items collected under one of the front seats and...displaced the side airbag harness a little; causing a resistence high code to set. But it is just a guess.

The location is driver side, on the car belly, and just in front of the rear wheel. It is easy to replace it. You would need two M10 or M12 (don't remember exactly) wrench and some patience. It would not take more than 30 min. And, remember to get a container to collect the fuels that is going be pouring out while you are going to try put the new fuel filter in. Use take everything slowly and correctly and not to panic when the fuels are leaking out because it won't be much and you can plug it up it you think it is excessive. Just try your best not to damage the hex while unscrewing or you will have more than a 30 min job.

First off you'll need a strut compressing tool because I don't think the struts are sold with the spring. It's quite a job. Easier with air tools, but can be done with hand tools. Jack up the rear of your car, remove tire, remove bolts from the trunk area (there should be 2 or 3). There's a bolt on the bottom of the strut that needs to be removed. Then the whole assembly should come out. You may need an extra jack to support the rotor(put a piece of wood on jack so you won't accidentally damage the rotor) when you remove the strut assembly. Then use compression tool to squeeze the big spring. If you go to auto parts store, they can also print instructions that will be more in depth from what I'm typing here. That may be more helpful for you. Good luck. I'd have a buddy helping too. lol.

The speed sensor it located on the top of the transmission under the air cleaner box. I'm told there are two, but I can only find one on my car.

Its a pain in the butt.... there is a plastic shielding on the underside behind the foglite which is water shielding for the front tire. There are removeable plastic rivets holding the shielding in place. Getting at all of them is nearly impossible for the average do-it-yourselfer. Getting at enough of them so you can reach around and remove the waterproof cover and unplug the bulb is a pain but achievable. If you have yet to replace any of the bulbs yet, I would suggest that you try to remove one of the headlights (low beam... its the same bulb a the foglight). I only suggest this because if you take my advice and only remove some of the plastic rivets you may wind up (like me) having to reach around and remove the cover and bulb, blind, so being familiar with how the cover comes off and where the bulb prongs are is a plus.

Look at the instructions for replacing spark plugs and the portion that deals with the rear / right spark plugs will lead you to the EGR valve. It's not difficult if you follow directions - just be careful not to lose the gasket.

Good luck,