About 1.5 quarts

Yes

The Starter Relay is located inside the PDC (Power Distribution Center) that sits inside the engine compartment on the passenger-side fender well. The PDC is a rectangular black box perhaps 12" by 3" with a lid that covers all the fuses and relays contained inside. The layout and identification of all the relays and fuses is located inside the lid. There is a larger starter solenoid that is physically on the starter motor itself.

If you have to ask you shouldn't be doing it for starters.

But if you really want to know the easy way, buy a monster truck. It comes with them already installed.

If the front axle is locking then yes. ie; limited slip

you need to let the engine warm up so the oil and other lubricants will protect the moving parts of your engine and tranmission ***The 3400 V6 is, and always has been poorly manufactured - The noise you are getting is due to loose/incorrect factory internal engine clearances. There is nothing you can do about this problem besides use a small amount of oil stabilizer, like "Lucas oil additive". There is good news, though - As long as you change your oil regularly, this problem should not get worse, and therefore is more of an annoyance than anything. One thing you should know, if your car uses any coolant at all (if you have to add coolant more than once a year) then you need to have your car inspected for leaks in the intake manifold and head gaskets - These repairs are very common (ALL 3400's will have to have their intake gaskets replaced by ~100,000 miles) and can result in coolant getting in to your oil. Coolant in your oil will do permanent damage to your crankshaft bearings, and can also cause galling of the sidewalls of your pistons. Both of these problems will cause a severe engine knock (like a hammer on the bottom of your engine) and will ultimately result in catastrophic failure.

Very true. My 3.4 turned 100,000 miles and about a month later the head gasket and intake gasket both blew. My car also had this noise, but like mentioned before if you maintain regular oil changes it shouldn't get worse.

no. different bolt pattern

Yes

There is a removal tool on the fuse panel, grab the fuse at the middle and just pull toward you.

New one goes in by hand quite easily.

Bad throttle position sensor

6.5"

If you have the manual transmission 5 forward and one reverse, add to that 4 wheel high, 4 wheel low, and 2 wheel low, and I guess it would all add up to 24.

But 5 forward and one reverse with a 4 position transfer case is probably what you are looking for.

20 mpg

Should be between 4.5 and 6 qts, start with 4.5 and start it to fill the oil filter if needed & then add any additional qts needed

Fold the soft top down, Remove 4 torx bolts from the bows and remove them from the brackets on the roll cage. Pull the entire top away from the vehicle to the rear.

Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 1987-2006 are 5X4.5

Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 2007-2014 are 5X5

In order to activate the axle lock you must first shift into 4L (4wd low). Once in 4L, press the switch once to lock the rear axle, a second time to also lock the front. Pressing the switch a third time will unlock the front axle but keep the rear axle locked. A fourth press will once again engage the front axle in addition to the rear axle. In this manner you can easily toggle between having only the rear axle locked and having both axles locked. This is a useful feature for off-road applications where hard pulling is required (lock both axles), interspersed with maneuverability (rear axle lock only). It is very difficult, but not impossible, to turn while the front axle is locked. Pull up on the switch to unlock axles- this can be done with either the rear or both axles locked. Notice, the instrument panel will indicate which axle(s) is/are locked. It is an air activated locker- pressing the button activates an air compressor located near the transmission (sitting on the rear edge of the skid plate, driver's side) which engages the locker of one or the other differential, locking the spider gears inside a differential together. This forces the tires of one axle to spin at the same speed. When the locker is not engaged, the wheel with least resistance will spin while the other remains still. This is not ideal for off-road applications, particularly in mud or snow.

T-55

2003

NO A RUBICON WITH 1.5" FACTORY LIFT WILL ACCEPT 32" TIRES AND THAT IS THE BIGGEST STOCK. I believe you are thinking of a TJ Wrangler 1997-2006 which requires at least 3" of lift to runn 33s on the trail without rubbing. A JK 2007-Present Can fit 33s stock with little rubbing and the JK Rubicon comes from the factory with 32" BFG KM2s Sources- Owned and have been around Jeeps all my lift and currently own 2005 Rubicon 4" lift and 33s, 83 CJ7 awaiting Restoration, and 78 CJ5 building up

yes but they will scrub. anything bigger and ull need a lift

After taking off the intake tube, remove the 4 14mm bolts from the coil pack (long black item on the passenger's side just below the valve cover.) You don't need to disconnect the wiring harness connector (in the rear, next to the firewall) from the coil pack but you may. With both hands grab the coil pack and pull up. Your done! make sure that your new plugs are gapped at .034" (verify, never trust them out of the box) and with a small dab of anti-sieze on the threads, install new plugs. I have always used Champion's 4412 Truck Plugs. Just a personal preference. When installing, run the plugs down and tighten 1/4 turn after the plug touches the head's surface. Too much and you'll be hating life later. Reinstall the coil pack in reverse order and your done.

In my case (4.0 L ) the 4 bolts for the were 13mm for the coil pack. The sticker under my engine hood (back near the drivers door) recommended a gap of .035. I used the Champion OEM 438 or RC12ECC plugs that are recommended by Jeep.

round ones, 215/70/15 I believe. Check the drivers door(next to steering wheel) for a sticker.