Mazda Miata

under the hood in the usual place

On a 1998 Cavalier, the IAT sensor is located in the hose connecting the air cleaner to the throttle body. The IAT is a two-wire sensor.

In very laymen's terms, high HC numbers mean that your fuel isn't burning off as much as it should and remainder is making it out of the tail. This is either because you're running rich (the car's ECU thinks it needs to inject more fuel in the engine), or more commonly, your car has weak spark so the fuel isn't being burned.

Miatas typically run a bit rich, but tend to respond very well to a new set of plug wires and spark plugs. The run-of-the-mill NGK blue spark plug wires and basic NGK spark plugs at $2-$3 each will work just fine for your tune-up.

The more expensive possibilities are that the sensors are now 20 years old and not giving the ECU proper information. Sensor failures on these cars commonly lead to the ECU thinking it needs to inject more fuel. Culprits may be the Air Flow Meter/Air Temp Sensor, O2 sensor, or bad EGR or IAC valves (the valves can get crudded up and seize, making the engine unable to manage incoming air). The valves can typically be cleaned with sensor-safe throttle body cleaner.

check out the below.

http://www.techguys.ca/howto/index.html

city 25mpg hwy 28-33mpg

The IAT sensor measures the temperature of the intake nmanifold. The ECM uses this sensor reading to set injection timing and adjust the air-fuel ratio. If the fuel mileage and power output of you engine seem low, some owners have found improvement in EGT, fuel economy, and power after cleaning carbon from the IAT sensor in at the rear of the intage manifold. Engine with exhaust brakes are particularly prone to IAT sensor fouling because soot is blown back into the intake during valve overlap.

The only tool you need is a 3/8" ratchet with a 6" extension and 13/16" socket. View of IAT from above battery Closer view of the IAT sensor The IAT sensor is found on the driver's side of the engine, almost at the back of the intake manifold. Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor. You will need to spread the connect tab away from the sensor body to unplug the sensor. After the connector has been removed, use a 13/16" deep well socket, 6" extension, and ratchet to unscrew the sensor from the manifold. Photo of a dirty IAT sensor The sensor on the left had 20,000 miles on it, and it was covered with soot. After a shot of carburator cleaner, you can see the sensor element inside the cage. Screw the clean IAT sensor back into the manifold, torque it to 10 ft-lb, and reattach the connector. Photo of a clean IAT sensor

Normal IAT Sensor resistance values:

Temperature Resistance 30� 40K 32� 30k to 36k ohms 76� 13K ohms 77� 9k to 11k ohms 81� 6.87K ohms 122� 3k to 4k ohms 130� 4K ohms 167 600 to 675 ohms 212 600 to 675 ohms

Replacement Sensor:

Cummins PN 3408345, around $28.

Dodge PN 05014197AA Sensor, Temperature (SEN, TEM), around $18.

Use the button on the dash to raise the headlights, remove the black plastic cover from around the headlight, unbolt the cover from the frame mechanism (IIRC).

155.7 in

No, it will not be the same. There are multiple ways to initiate a drift sequence in a car, and you would use different styles to achieve different "stunts". Search for the "Drift Bible" on Youtube. While a drift can be initiated by upsetting the weight and balance of the car, the more advanced drifting techniques involve instantaneous gearing changes and clutch manipulation to shift weight and break the rear wheels loose.

Try the automotive section in your local library.

My 96 would do the same thing intermittently. The fault code was something like "secondary bank lean". I looked for a vacume leak, was advised to change the computer and finally I just turned up the idle a little bit and have had no problems since. It still passes the emission tests so I'm not going to mess with it anymore.

It is hidden behind a plastic shield underneath the car, just before the rear, passenger side tire.

See the following site for details:

http://sites.google.com/site/redcapsmiata/tutorials/fuel-filter-replacement

Feet well on the drivers side. First find some way to get down there then once underneath the plastic look against the drivers side wall and you'll see mostly blue fuses labeled "15"

A knocking sound while your car is moving is probably coming from the engine. A certified mechanic will be able to perform diagnostic testing.

You can "cheat" clear it by using a OBDII scanner that allows you to erase it, or simply disconnect the battery and wait for a few minutes.

P0402 is very common for 1999-2000 Miatas. The most common reason is because the engines run very rich and tends to crud up the EGR ports. This is usually fixed by clearing out the Intake Manifold EGR port, and the EGR valve itself:

Cleaning the Intake Manifold Port:

http://miata.net/garage/manifold/index.html

Cleaning the EGR Valve:

http://sites.google.com/site/redcapsmiata/tutorials/egr-valve

Yes.

The bolt-pattern is the same, but the second generation Miatas (1999-2005) have more room for larger/wider wheels.

There are two fans on a Miata. The main fan is triggered by the coolant temperature sensor, which is at the back of the Miata engine, dead center, just above the transmission. The second fan is triggered when AC is turned on.

A Phoenix area Mazda Dealer Service advisor told me it was two trips of 40 consecutive miles. Sounds a bit much to me. I was hoping to pass emissions today. Still searching for a more definitive answer...

3.8 to 4 quarts is required for an oil change.

It is possible on all 1990 to 2005 models. It has not been verified yet on later models.

The lock cylinder used on Miata's has a feature that allows it to "disengage" from the center console release. However, Mazda has designed it so that the feature cannot be used.

In order to do this modification, you will need to grind away the small stop tabs that prevent the lock from disengaging the trunk release. Please visit the Related link below for details.

The type of alloy wheels that have the letter R are those with radial construction. The R stands for radial.

It sounds like you still have a little air in the brake lines. You probably need to bleed them again. Or you have the pads installed improperly.

In a 2003 Mazda 6, open the glove box, squeeze the sides gently and remove ithe box. The cabin air filter is directly behind where the glove box lives. It is a simple matter to unlatch the door and pull the old filter out. Reverse your steps to install the new filter and glove box. It helps to empty the glove box first so you don't spill anything. MTV, Austin, Tx