Mazda Miata

Behind the Timing Belt at the front of the engine. The water pump pulley is the top central pulley on the engine. Removing the Timing Belt is required.

gears?

Miata wheel bearings are replaced as an integral hub / bearing assembly. Do a search on www.Miata.net for more detailed information. This is true of the FRONT hub assembly, but the rear assembly in the 1990-2005 cars have a replaceable bearing that is the same for all years. Removing the bearing requires removing the entire assembly from the car so the bearing may be pressed out, or gently hammered out with correct drift sizes. The bearings are USUALLY NOT the cause of rear suspension noises. The CV joints are much more likely to fail than the bearings.

1. Open the Trunk.
2. Remove the small black Phillips head screw connecting the top of the tail lamp assembly.
3. Remove the rear-facing carpet panels behind the tail light assembly, but removing the pop fasteners. Use a fingernail or small flathead screwdriver to lift the center pin, then pull the enter fastner out.
4. Once the carpeting panel is out, use a socket set to remove the gold/brass nut/bolt hardware. This will allow the tail lamp assembly to be removed, and the bulbs to be accessed.

Means a dash sensor is mal functioning, dont worry, people with this code difuse the airbag light as it is useless and annoying, unless you are a fan of holiday lighting.

Sorry...you can't tilt it! I think they added that feature in about 2008.

The 2003 Mazda camshaft position in sensor can be found on the back of the left-hand cylinder head. The camshaft position sensor should be labeled as such.

4 quarts motor oil

2 quarts transmission oil

1 quart differential oil

The idle should be at 8 to 900 rpms, if lower then theres a idle screw on the side of the throttle body in front of the injector, turn it to where the idle needs to be.

If you happen to own a manual of the Wiring Diagrams, or can find one, page twenty-one will show the fuse system for the power locks. It lists D Lock Fuse 10A as connected to the Door Lock Control Module.

If you are positive its 2 & 3 , and you know the coils are good , check the crank/cam angle sensor . I had this problem with 1 & 4 cyl. I WAS NOT able to test the cam sensor at home , myself. So I replaced it with a working one from a friends car . Cured . Bought one from junk yard next day , they are VERY expensive.

No. Mazda Miatas run a non-interference engine.

Open up your tailgate. You will see 2 screws that have a funny pattern to them. These are torx head screws.You will need to remove these to remove the tail light cover.once you remove the screws you will need to pull the light housing away from the vehicle as to get i to get to bulb(s). i requires a quarter turn to remove the plug out of back of housing. Go down to your local auto parts store, (I prefer Advance Auto), take a pair of gloves, just because, and they should be able to help you. They, will also let you borrow a small torx screwdriver to remove the screws, and help you replace any light bulbs, if needed. Good luck.

temp sensor on the 99 miata is on the back of the cylinder head in a housing. it's easy to see and get at with the coilpack removed. also wanted to correct an earlier answer on 90-93 miata temp switch, which is in basically the same place. the switch on the top of the thermostat housing front of engine is for the cooling fan.

There is an airbag assy on the steering wheel and one on the dashboard on passenger side. they are assy. that get replaced.

Most stuck seat belts are that way because of the inertial lock that is built in. On most models, there is a pin that is trippable on the side of the buckle. It should release the latch.

timing BELT ( according to Gates , they make timing belts etc. - it is also an

interference engine )

2005

1. Open the Trunk.
2. Remove the small black Phillips head screw connecting the top of the tail lamp assembly.
3. Remove the rear-facing carpet panels behind the tail light assembly, but removing the pop fasteners. Use a fingernail or small flathead screwdriver to lift the center pin, then pull the enter fastner out.
4. Once the carpeting panel is out, use a 10mm socket set to remove the gold/brass nut/bolt hardware. This will allow the tail lamp assembly to be removed, and the bulbs to be accessed.

I have a '93 Miata Limited Edition which I'm pretty certain either didn't come with the "override code" radio feature, or it's been disabled. I've removed battery power plenty of times in the last 15 years and the stock radio still works. In fact, it wasn't until just recently that I bought a shop manual for the car ad learned of the warning. Still, just to be safe, I would suggest checking the users manual that came with the car if you still have it.

Check your owner's manual, but newer cars can also illuminate the brake light if the fluid in the master brake cylinder is too low.

This may have happened if the brakes were bled but not filled, or if the caliper was pushed back in, but fluid was lost in overflow, etc.

180x60x14

I just changed it (the front O2 sensor) on my 2003 Miata. I believe yours will be the same. First, you will need an O2 sensor wrench (about $10 from Advance Auto Parts). Don't waste your time trying to remove it without one. Then follow these steps:

1. Warm the engine, and let it cool to the point you can safely touch the sensor and exhaust pipe.
2. Jack up drivers side front wheel, and put a jack stand under the frame.
3. Remove wheel. (I put the wheel with a piece of 2 x 6 on top of it to the rear of the jack point for added safety.)
4. Apply Liquid Wrench or equivalent to the sensor-exhaust connection - wait at least five minutes.
5. You may still need to add a piece of pipe (or 1/2" spark plug socket with 8" extension worked for me) to your 3/8" ratchet wrench handle to get enough leverage to break the sensor free.
6. If you replace with a universal type O2 sensor (I used a Bosch 15733 sensor from Amazon at $45.41), you will need to reuse your old electrical connector by splicing it in. The Bosch unit I used has a special connector assembly for doing this. It is a bit tedious to assemble but seems very solid. Just follow the instructions. With the Bosch sensor, the two white and two black wires individually (two connections) go together and the remaining the single black and blue and single grey and white wires connect.
7. Reassemble.

You will need to remove the positive battery terminal to clear the check engine light.

Take off the two pieces of plastic that round the steering wheel (4 or 5) screws, and look on the opposite side of the key hole, there will be a yellow end (plastic and contacts) attached to the metallic part. unplug the harness that connects that end, and look for a screw on the top of that yellow part (note: the yellow part is your switch). Take that crew (self tapping) off and then just pull gently your switch, done.