Mazda Miata

There is an airbag assy on the steering wheel and one on the dashboard on passenger side. they are assy. that get replaced.

Most stuck seat belts are that way because of the inertial lock that is built in. On most models, there is a pin that is trippable on the side of the buckle. It should release the latch.

timing BELT ( according to Gates , they make timing belts etc. - it is also an

interference engine )

2005

1. Open the Trunk.
2. Remove the small black Phillips head screw connecting the top of the tail lamp assembly.
3. Remove the rear-facing carpet panels behind the tail light assembly, but removing the pop fasteners. Use a fingernail or small flathead screwdriver to lift the center pin, then pull the enter fastner out.
4. Once the carpeting panel is out, use a 10mm socket set to remove the gold/brass nut/bolt hardware. This will allow the tail lamp assembly to be removed, and the bulbs to be accessed.

I have a '93 Miata Limited Edition which I'm pretty certain either didn't come with the "override code" radio feature, or it's been disabled. I've removed battery power plenty of times in the last 15 years and the stock radio still works. In fact, it wasn't until just recently that I bought a shop manual for the car ad learned of the warning. Still, just to be safe, I would suggest checking the users manual that came with the car if you still have it.

Check your owner's manual, but newer cars can also illuminate the brake light if the fluid in the master brake cylinder is too low.

This may have happened if the brakes were bled but not filled, or if the caliper was pushed back in, but fluid was lost in overflow, etc.

180x60x14

I just changed it (the front O2 sensor) on my 2003 Miata. I believe yours will be the same. First, you will need an O2 sensor wrench (about $10 from Advance Auto Parts). Don't waste your time trying to remove it without one. Then follow these steps:

1. Warm the engine, and let it cool to the point you can safely touch the sensor and exhaust pipe.
2. Jack up drivers side front wheel, and put a jack stand under the frame.
3. Remove wheel. (I put the wheel with a piece of 2 x 6 on top of it to the rear of the jack point for added safety.)
4. Apply Liquid Wrench or equivalent to the sensor-exhaust connection - wait at least five minutes.
5. You may still need to add a piece of pipe (or 1/2" spark plug socket with 8" extension worked for me) to your 3/8" ratchet wrench handle to get enough leverage to break the sensor free.
6. If you replace with a universal type O2 sensor (I used a Bosch 15733 sensor from Amazon at $45.41), you will need to reuse your old electrical connector by splicing it in. The Bosch unit I used has a special connector assembly for doing this. It is a bit tedious to assemble but seems very solid. Just follow the instructions. With the Bosch sensor, the two white and two black wires individually (two connections) go together and the remaining the single black and blue and single grey and white wires connect.
7. Reassemble.

You will need to remove the positive battery terminal to clear the check engine light.

Take off the two pieces of plastic that round the steering wheel (4 or 5) screws, and look on the opposite side of the key hole, there will be a yellow end (plastic and contacts) attached to the metallic part. unplug the harness that connects that end, and look for a screw on the top of that yellow part (note: the yellow part is your switch). Take that crew (self tapping) off and then just pull gently your switch, done.

6mm

The TPS is the Throttle Position Sensor. You can research additional information on a TPS as it is a very general automotive item, but it is mounted with 2 Phillips head screws on the side of the Throttle Body, which is in front of the intake manifold.

The Intake Manifold is the large, cast metal piece on the passenger side of the engine. The Throttle Body is the mechanical piece with the spring-like mechanism between the intake manifold and your black, plastic cross-over pipe.

The TPS is the small, electronic device mounted on the opposite side of the spring mechanism.

These will fail over time and in Miatas, typically exhibit the feeling of fuel cut or instantaneous loss of power while driving.

This information refers to 1990-2005 Miatas.

Stock gap recommended is 0.040", for Turbocharged or Supercharged Miatas 0.034" is recommended.

yes

If memory serves me well I think it is located directly under the center console.

Right under the dash on the drivers side buy your left leg also there is one under the hood near the top on the drivers side.

every miata is different no matter if same or diff year, if you dont have one then replace every blown fuse

Leakage in weatherstripping

There is a phillips head screw on the right side of the shift knob, as well as one on the front of the knob. I found it easiest to turn on the car then put the car in 2 and use a drill to get the screw out.

near the right rear of the car just ahead of the fuel tank. It is within a plastic cover. The cover can be easily removed and 'there it is.'

Miata Starter is located on the passenger side of the engine at the bottom end of the engine block, slightly behind the oil filter.

You can find images and info how to change it here:

http://www.racecaddy.com/mx5/tech/starter-mx5.html

You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with the right info...make copies as they are usually only in the REFERENCE section....good luck:)

http://www.carmanualshare.com/search/label/Car%20-%20Mazda

Miatas don't have struts. They use coil sprngs over shock absorbers at all four corners.