Mazda RX-7

It holds two people.

Not sure what exactly the question is, but the front rotor is number 1 and the rear rotor is number 2. The answer would be 0. An Rx-7 has 0 cylinders, and 2 rotors.

If you look on the driver side back by the break pedle you will see the fuse panel

1978-1985 Generation 1 (FB/SA) [Series 1,2 and 3] RX-7s did not come with an LSD.

1986-1991 Generation 2 (FC) [Series 4 and 5] did come with LSDs on the turbo models, they differ between the series. Series 4 had a clutch type LSD, while series 5 had a viscous type.

1992-2002 Generation 3 (FD) [Series 6, 7 and 8] came with LSDs all torsion type.

Source:

http://www.allcarwiki.com/wiki/Mazda_RX-7

http://www.allcarwiki.com/wiki/Mazda_RX-7_1st_Generation_Series_1_Specifications

http://www.allcarwiki.com/wiki/Mazda_RX-7_2nd_Generation_Series_4_Specifications

http://www.allcarwiki.com/wiki/Mazda_RX-7_3rd_Generation_Series_8_Specifications

Yes TRAILING and LEADING...at the auto store they will give one pair of each...make sure you follow instructions on ow to cange plugs in rx7 and make sure you put them back in the order you took them out...It says on the plug box which is trailing and whic is leading

Hitachi built HT-18 Twin Scroll turbocharger capable of operating at 12-14psi max. limited to about 6psi by the stock wastegate.

i believe the smell and low mileage are directly related to you removing the cat. heres why.... 1) Cats are primarily designed to remove harmful NOx gasses from the exhaust stream by heating them up to around 600+ degrees. imaging lighting a match, theres never any smoke until the flame goes out therefore the hotter something is the more complete the combustion is. Cats work on the same principle. so you will have a lot more toxic gases coming out of your exhaust with out a cat which will alter the way the exhaust smells hence it will smell similar to a car wich is over fuelling. 2) due to the above process backpressure is created as a side effect of the NOx scrubbing process which in its most basic form will restrict the flow of gasses out of the exhaust stream. as the engine is having to fight this resistance power and therefore mileage will drop. when removing the cat you are taking away this restriction which will decrease your mileage but increase the power output of the block. given the nature of the RX7, which as standard produces more exhaust gases and get less mileage than the average piston engine the removal of the catylizer is only ever going to aggravate the situation. the only option really without reverting back to the original catalytic converter is to go with a racing Cat -these will scrub the NOx more to reduce the smell but will do next to nothing to increase mileage. i believe bonez make a very good racing cat. hope this helps.

4 plugs. 2 are leading and 2 are trailing.

Bad idling isn't dude to low compression it's due to the Throttle position sensor or the EGR valve, possibly a vacuum leak. If you are daring us a flammable liquid to find the vacuum leak, a safer method is to use a mechanics stethoscope.

== == I had the same problem with my RX. It ended up being something simple. I was installing my new intake when I decided it would be good to take off the MAF (Mass Airflow sensor) so I could bolt the intake to it easier I ended up Messing up the harness and when I started it. It idled poorly then shut off. Basically I went to the junkyard and got the whole MAF because its almost impossible to take the electronics out. The thing cost me about 45 to 50 bucks in the junkyard. I suggest you do the same. Its easy and relatively straightforward to install and my cars been running great since.

many will give a different answer but for early rotary engines - mineral oil is best. depending on your local climate will determine how viscous the oil should be. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold, the second number is the oil is at operating temperature. The Higher the number the thinker ther oil. 10w-30 or 10w-40 will suffice in most temperate climates in climates that regularly see minus dgrees then a lower viscosity oil must be used - like a 5w-10 for example. in really arid climates you may need an oil that is more viscous like 20w-50 for example. rotary's are very particular about their oil so if you want to be look after the engine then there are racing oils you can use that will offer more protection. for example im told that Purple Royal make very good oil. they are based in the UK. Answer The reason mineral oil is deemed better is the opinion that synthetic oil will not burn cleanly in the combustion chamber. There are people who use synthetic and have no problems. Personally I use 5W-30 amsoil synthetic, oil metering pump disabled and premixed fuel.

check timing. timing advance. or slack in timing chain/belt

That is dependent on the student. To even be considered being Hired by a reputable shop you will need a ASE Certification which can obtained by studying and taking the tests. If a more hands on approach is required there are many places like WyoTech who trains and certifies people in everything from Cars, Heavy Duty Diesel, and even Harley Davidsons.

My car name is Freddie

Blown h20 seal in engine or turbo !!

5

1. Check for vacuum leaks

2. Check to make sure the cold idle screw is not set really high(That's a cause of unknown high idles and why people can't get the car to idle down."

3. TPS sensor could be going out but if already replaced... You need to do a base idle reset.

4. If you are using low grade, cheap gas like 87 or 89 octane, you need to step it up and use the 91 or 93 like the car suggests. I made the same mistake and not my car runs great.

5. Check for positive battery connection. My battery cable is going extremely crappy and when your volts dont run where it should be, the computer runs an rpm increase to prevent your car from dying and all other problems arise then.

16 Gallons

the surge the engine does when you first start it up is normal, the engine is built to do that to assist with warming up the system it should lower after 30secs or so.

It's on the top of the engine at the front . It looks like a distributor with no leads. Which is kinda what it is. It should have a black plastic/steel cover/plate which is about 6cm across and about 1.5mm wide. They sometimes have billet alloy or steel covers with rotor logos etched into them. There are two maybe three wires which come from it too. It's just to the right and under your alternator. Hope this helps

goto your local shop, or even better a quick lube (usually dont charge) and get them to run a scan.. it should be an OBD I sensor, not a II.. but any good shop will know that... they will tell you what set the light, and how to fix it, and they can turn the light off.... lataaaaaaaaaa

The starter is located under the drivers seat beneath the car and is shaped sort of like a torpedo, I have great condition owners manual and have replaced that part once myself. If you need more clarifaction my e-mail is mgraf24@yahoo.com. Mike

Use DEXTRON II. Remove the power steering fluid reservoir cap, and fill the power steering reservoir until the fluid reaches the ''full'' line.