Mazda RX-7

next to each spark plug there should be a 5mm tall...T or L (trailing or leading) the spak plugs are different on the electrodes

Only Two of the injectors run constantly. The other two are staged to "Turn On" After certain RPM and Load requirements are met.

injector seat rings are shot or pluged you need to replace the injectors but replace all not just the two because you will have it apart anyway

3rd generation RX-7's have the best performance. Now whether you are in Japan or the US depends on which models you got.

I have an 88 rx7 and the solution i found to the problem was to remove the fuel injector fuse. Then turn let the engine turn over 5 times, wait a second and do it again. This is of course not good for your battery, or your engine but i have found it to work everytime. The simplest wasy to prevent this from happening is make sure u run your car for a cople minutes even if u r just moving it from the driveway.

in the rear. open the hatch and lift up the carpet inthe right corner by the taillight. its under there

if you live in a cold area get the strongest battery that will fit in the tray.

tool

its in the engine bay next to your brake master cylinder its the tube like cylinder that says dot3 fluid

sounds like a fuel issue.

Poor vacuum ,air leak ,you may need to adjust idlescrew on top of the TB

For my '88 RX7 there are a few fuse boxes. The main fuse panel is inside the car under the steering wheel. It should be tucked up under the left side. Other fuse panels are under the hood. I think there are only 2 or 3 other ones under the hood. The fuse panel inside the car handles all of ur lights and electronic stuff. The fuse panels under the hood mostly deal with just motor related. Hope this helps.

Only "RX" models do. Everything else is a reciprocating engine.

There is a short somewhere.

Misfiring and idle at 1500.

sounds like a TPS isn't adjust correctly.

look on this site for a write up to fix your TPS

http://fc3spro.com/main.html

and to correct your Idle

on top of the intake manifold there is a screw use a flat head and turn it down. that will adjust your idle if your TPS is correctly adjusted.

Well, the car costs from $10,000 to $15,000 and then the Veilside kit costs $25,000, plus $5000 in labour and bodywork to install so a Veilside Rx-7 would cost around $50,000.

The car is designed this way for cold starts. It should idle up to 3000 rpm then makes it's way down to around 1500 and finally down to 750 as it warms up. DO NOT drive when it is cold or If you have to do not take it over 3 grand until warmed up or you risk blowing coolant seals.

you can type in any year on autotrader.com to get answers. ive bought one for 100dollars and another for 7thousand.

That all depends on if you abuse the starter by cranking too long. I have 170,000 on original starter.

your best bet if you want to stick with the 12a motor is to buy the j-spec 12a which comes factory with a turbo. I found one i believe it was on "engineland.com" for 900 bucks so it isn't to expensive

Hard to get them to meet new emission standards...its impossible for Wankel/rotary engines to meet emmissions standard due to a serious fundamental design flaw. That is, the piston crown and combustion chamber surface area ratio to the cylinder and combustion "chamber" volume. The dish in the middle of the rotor. Its like a very (very) short stroke conventional engine. This results in a very large dead space (typically referred to as squish area) when the piston is at top dead center (TDC). This squish area ejects a large portion of the air to be used for combustion, into a more compact chamber either in the cylinder head, or in the piston or rotor crown (as is the case with the wankel). While this "squished" air help generate turbulence for an effective and rapid burn at ignition, there is (in the wankel) a large portion left in the space between the rotor and cylinder perifery, which, while it eventually burns, it doesn't burn efficiently (completely) through the period of peak compression. Further, there is a zone around the rotor sides where there is more dead space above the rotor side seals and chamber that burns very late and poorly in the process. Further to all this...when the rotor is at TDC, there is a large...I mean "large" banana shaped area each side of the rotor "chamber", between the chamber & rotor tips with a massive surface area vs volume of air for combustion. This banana shaped volume creates a very long path for ignition and the surface area quenches a lot of the initial heat from the ignition and impairs the combustion reaction markedly. Having said all this, the wankel engine is a very mechnical efficient design, albeit with an inherant serious flaw goemetrically impossible to over come.

It could be one of many things, Bad Starter, No Gas, Dead Battery, Loss of compression in one of the rotors, short in the wires somewhere, broken wires, like i said lots of things

My 88 had the same problem. Turns out the alternator was not quite charging the battery to full level. The battery should be charged to 12.4 to 12.6V (room temperature, new battery=12.6V). Adding distilled water to the battery did not solve the problem (try this first). The alternator was only charging it to 12.1V.

driverside kickpannel......down by the left foot

Try to use the highest octane you can, and try to stay away from ethanol tainted gas, the fuel system is not built to handle it and will develop leaks.

Anywhere between $10,000 - $20,000 for a nice one. There is no new, they are at least 20 years old.