Mazda RX-7

Poor vacuum ,air leak ,you may need to adjust idlescrew on top of the TB

For my '88 RX7 there are a few fuse boxes. The main fuse panel is inside the car under the steering wheel. It should be tucked up under the left side. Other fuse panels are under the hood. I think there are only 2 or 3 other ones under the hood. The fuse panel inside the car handles all of ur lights and electronic stuff. The fuse panels under the hood mostly deal with just motor related. Hope this helps.

Only "RX" models do. Everything else is a reciprocating engine.

There is a short somewhere.

Misfiring and idle at 1500.

sounds like a TPS isn't adjust correctly.

look on this site for a write up to fix your TPS

http://fc3spro.com/main.html

and to correct your Idle

on top of the intake manifold there is a screw use a flat head and turn it down. that will adjust your idle if your TPS is correctly adjusted.

Well, the car costs from $10,000 to $15,000 and then the Veilside kit costs $25,000, plus $5000 in labour and bodywork to install so a Veilside Rx-7 would cost around $50,000.

The car is designed this way for cold starts. It should idle up to 3000 rpm then makes it's way down to around 1500 and finally down to 750 as it warms up. DO NOT drive when it is cold or If you have to do not take it over 3 grand until warmed up or you risk blowing coolant seals.

you can type in any year on autotrader.com to get answers. ive bought one for 100dollars and another for 7thousand.

That all depends on if you abuse the starter by cranking too long. I have 170,000 on original starter.

your best bet if you want to stick with the 12a motor is to buy the j-spec 12a which comes factory with a turbo. I found one i believe it was on "engineland.com" for 900 bucks so it isn't to expensive

Hard to get them to meet new emission standards...its impossible for Wankel/rotary engines to meet emmissions standard due to a serious fundamental design flaw. That is, the piston crown and combustion chamber surface area ratio to the cylinder and combustion "chamber" volume. The dish in the middle of the rotor. Its like a very (very) short stroke conventional engine. This results in a very large dead space (typically referred to as squish area) when the piston is at top dead center (TDC). This squish area ejects a large portion of the air to be used for combustion, into a more compact chamber either in the cylinder head, or in the piston or rotor crown (as is the case with the wankel). While this "squished" air help generate turbulence for an effective and rapid burn at ignition, there is (in the wankel) a large portion left in the space between the rotor and cylinder perifery, which, while it eventually burns, it doesn't burn efficiently (completely) through the period of peak compression. Further, there is a zone around the rotor sides where there is more dead space above the rotor side seals and chamber that burns very late and poorly in the process. Further to all this...when the rotor is at TDC, there is a large...I mean "large" banana shaped area each side of the rotor "chamber", between the chamber & rotor tips with a massive surface area vs volume of air for combustion. This banana shaped volume creates a very long path for ignition and the surface area quenches a lot of the initial heat from the ignition and impairs the combustion reaction markedly. Having said all this, the wankel engine is a very mechnical efficient design, albeit with an inherant serious flaw goemetrically impossible to over come.

It could be one of many things, Bad Starter, No Gas, Dead Battery, Loss of compression in one of the rotors, short in the wires somewhere, broken wires, like i said lots of things

My 88 had the same problem. Turns out the alternator was not quite charging the battery to full level. The battery should be charged to 12.4 to 12.6V (room temperature, new battery=12.6V). Adding distilled water to the battery did not solve the problem (try this first). The alternator was only charging it to 12.1V.

driverside kickpannel......down by the left foot

Try to use the highest octane you can, and try to stay away from ethanol tainted gas, the fuel system is not built to handle it and will develop leaks.

Anywhere between $10,000 - $20,000 for a nice one. There is no new, they are at least 20 years old.

what type of oil can i use for my Mazda rx7

The Secondary injectors only kick on at around 2800 rpm and are dormant at anything under that. They get plugged if not used, so remember to drive you rotary like you stole it now and then to keep everything running smooth

If you have loss of compression then a full rebuild of the engine is most likely needed.

if its a 12a carb. then its running rich and unless its really bad readjust the fuel mixture located on the left side of the carburetor otherwise this is normal.

I'd try the fuel pump or the fuel pressure regulator. Maybe the fuel pump relay or fuse . Hopefully a simple fix...

From the factory yes it would have a hydraulic clutch ! If not it has been modified at a later date .

the Mazda logo have changed many times thru out the years,

On an RX7 that does not start, the first thing to suspect is always that you have flooded the beast. ALWAYS. So read up on de-flooding, and follow the instructions. An RX7 never ever ever starts when it is flooded. A standard compression guage doesn't work on a rotary, so you may not have good compression unless yours is the correct type. Also check your basic timing. Is it anywhere close to making sense? An RX7 is a very high voltage system--it does not tolerate poor electrical connections well at all (but a Detroit or Japanese car will). If you don't have a strong spark, check the coil and other ignition components. Make sure all 12 volt connections are very clean--i.e. bright metal. Start with the battery terminals, the battery wires, the battery ground point on the engine (often a culprit, since it is easy for it to corrode). Inspect your battery cables as well, as they may be needing replacement. Be sure your battery is fully charged--it should read in the 13 volt range when fully charged. And be sure you get a heavy duty one, since you need capacity to de-flood an engine away from home. Make sure your coils are both working. Did you replace the ignition wires recently? Again, on a high voltage system, they must be in very good condition for the engine to run well. All that said, the old mantra is that if an engine doesn't start, check compression, fuel delivery and ignition. You've already checked the compression. Have you tried starting fluid? If it fires up with a little starting fluid you've narrowed down the problem. If that doesn't help, check for ignition. Pull a plug wire, connect it to a spare sparkplug and lay it on a solid metal surface on the engine. Crank the engine and see if you have a strong spark. If starting fluid started the engine, check the fuel pump and whatever a rotary engine uses as a carb or injector.

Yes it does. It's called a limited slip differential. Posi would refer to the Chevy brand rear end. No you don't have posi. Yes you have a LSD.