Mazda RX-7

pretty good explanation here...http://auto.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm

Turbos gone bro :S

With a timing light of course. Your crank pully should have 2 marks on it, the first mark is for the leading plugs and is 5 degrees AFTER top dead center (atdc) and the second mark is for trailing and is 20 degrees AFTER top dead center (atdc). Your 85 should have vacuum advance on your distributer, be sure to unplug the vacuum line and cap it off while stetting your timing. Trust me when I say, use only your timing marks, playing with your timing on rotaries causes all sorts of problems

If the car has been sitting for sometime you may have carbon lock. Assuming the battery and the starter are good, you need to remove the spark plugs and squirt ALOT of WD-40 into the rotor housings. Let it soak for a few hours, then with the car in 4th gear, FIRMLY rock the car back and fourth to see if the engine budges at all.

As a safety precaution you should unplug the MAF sensor (the big plug going into the side of the airbox) while doing the following. Unplugging this sensor cuts the power to the fuel pump so no fuel will be in the engine.

If you can get the engine to move ( pulleys will turn as the car rolls), then try the starter again ( no spark plugs). You may only get incremental movement at first, so repeat the above steps until the engine spins freely. Then reinstall the plugs, reconnect the MAF, and give it a try at starting. You will get a lot of smoke from the wd-40 at start up, but that will clear.

If the the wd-40 doesn't unbudge the engine, you can try pouring Automatic Transmission fluidinto the plug holes and letting it sit overnight or longer, and doing the same thing as above.

Good luck!

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With a stock ecu from factory 98 premium. You can get it remapped (standalone) to use e85. Simple answer : premium unleaded. I use shell optimax and it serves me well. I have a 250hp fc turbo softop

Replace the convertible door seal.

20-50w non synthetic

R-12

Under revised standards:

15 City 21 Hwy For Turbo II

15 City 21 Hwy For N/A with Automatic Transmission

15 City 22 Hwy For N/A with Manual Transmission

If a person would like to purchase a used Mazda RX7, it is easy to do so. The Mazda RX7 is available at any Mazda or Mitsubishi dealership which specializes in used vehicles. Additionally, a person may check their local automobile classified advertisements for a used Mazda RX7.

Mazda RX7 for sure! It has more horsepower, better acceleration and shifting is also better then Silvia S15, but in a corner S15 is better, because it has better handling and shifting after a brake.

Super unleaded if not your sensors start going out, one by one.

HAHA that's funny Regular unleaded is fine for these cars. No need to spend the extra on super......Use only major brand gas though not the cheaper no names as they get the stale gas from the major guys......

OP is WRONG. your sensors will go out one by one over time anyway, its called normal wear and tear. Regular unleaded 87 octane will work just fine in your saturn. unless you have modified the motor and raised the compression ratio above what it was from the factory. (9.5:1 iirc) unless you are driving a vehicle with a high compression ratio, premium is a waste of money, and midgrade is just a rip off. -airframer1189

Intake Air Thermo Sensor - Dynamic Chamber

12 seconds-1.8. Depends on if it is running on one rotor or a drag car. Be more specific please.

It would be the gaskets between the front middle and rear housings. the "block" is made up of 5 sections put together front middle and rear sections are cast iron and the two rotor housings are aluminium.

nope, the starter should be right at the bottom of the transmission on the driverside.

it should be behind the waterpump, just below the thermostat

yes it is. the only other type of rotary built is the 20b and it is only put in a car called the cosmos. some people do the work so it can be put into an rx-7 but I have only heard of it being put in a FD not the FC.

(Correction)

While you are correct that the 87 RX7 only came with the 13b, there are actually many types of rotary engines

12a: Smaller and carborated

13b

13bt: Turbo and lower compression

13REW: turbo, lower compression, and thicker housing walls

20b: 3 rotor found in the Eunos Cosmos

26b: 4 rotor used in the Mazda 787B to win the Le Mans 24 hour race on its first try

13b-MSP: 2 rotor in the RX8, very high compression and altered exhaust system

and that is just listing the rotaries that are still found in current production cars.....it has a very rich history for an "Experimental" engine

erm, dude. if this is a 13b engine it wont have cylinders or pistons, its a wankel (rotary) engine. wont even have a valves. you get two specifically shapped triangles (called rotors) inside a trochoidal shaped housing which are mounted on an eccentric shaft - similar in operation to the crank shaft of a piston engine. search rotary engine illustrated on google and this should show how the engines internals move around in comarison to each other part. if this engine does indeed have cylinders then it has had an engine swap at some point which makes your job a hell of alot easier as the need for a specialist to look at it is now longer a necessity. if it is indeed the rotary engine that came with the car then i would seek an RX7 specialist as in my experience (this is not meant as an insult) if you dont know what your doing with these car you end up breaking more than your fix. but if you really want to have a stab at it yourself then see the below thing it could possibly be. Leaky Injector Low Compression on one/both Rotor(s) (should be 100-85psi Map Sensor giving false or no info Coolant Temp Sensor giving false or no info faulty ECU - usually realted to a burnt out resistor on the mother board. coroded wiring tuned Incorrectly - either by incorrect mapping or timing set incorrectly.

not sure what your asking is even a question - more a collection of words with a question mark at the end but this may be relevant to your ques... i mean words..

Torque per se does not affect a car's acceleration ability. The spread of torque between the engine's maximum speed and the corresponding speed for the next higher gear does. If your car drops significantly from its torque peak when you change gear (that's you, Celica VVTi) then that can affect your acceleration.

All the talk in magazines about torque being important in the real world is because most people are conditioned by the government to drive at low engine speed, and expect to be able to accelerate hard from low revs. In reality a more powerful car will always be faster than a less powerful car, regardless of their respective torque outputs, given the proviso above, if driven to the engine's power peak.

In respect of the RX-7, which is beautifully geared to drop neatly into the meat of secondary turbo boost for every new gear, you can rest assured that the relatively low torque output is completely irrelevant so long as you rev to just short of the bleeper.

And, let's face it, that's what you'd do anyway right?

HP is rated at 255bhp on paper however due to a gentlemans agreement between auto makers in japan at the time Mazda lied about the power output. Cars tested leaving the factory were found to be more like 300+bhp in the higher spec models (R1 / R2 models)

at the time in japan all major car makers agreed they wouldn't make cars more than 255bhp. hence why Mazda embelished the truth somewhat.

hope this helps, as you can tell i have an awfull lot of time on my hands.

they only come with one engine. a 1.1L carbureted 12A rotary.

Rebuild. While the thing is taken apart it might as well be best to replace all seals.

more to the point why would you want to?? anyway if you are sure you want to do this there will be a fuse in the engine bay labelled EGI in the manual. this will disable spark, injectors and fuel pump. car will still turn over though.

Not worth it in my oppinion. You will need new computer and harness, different transmission, drive shaft, not to mention the hole you have to cut in the floor.

I do not agree. It can indeed be done if you are up for some late nights. I just converted my 1996 Dakota from an automatic to a standard. It took about 3 weeks (evenings and weekends), and ended up only costing me around $2500. I got a donor truck for under $1000 and it was just odds and ends. Watch out for the Crank Angle Sensor, which will need to be replaced (auto reads from torque converter and manual from the flywheel). Also, be advised to expect delays and problems. Mine already had the hole in the firewall for the clutch assembly, and cutting a hole in the floor is not hard with the right tools. Good luck if you try to do it, in my opinion the work is worth the end result.

Bad Apex seal