Mazda RX-7

what type of oil can i use for my Mazda rx7

The Secondary injectors only kick on at around 2800 rpm and are dormant at anything under that. They get plugged if not used, so remember to drive you rotary like you stole it now and then to keep everything running smooth

If you have loss of compression then a full rebuild of the engine is most likely needed.

if its a 12a carb. then its running rich and unless its really bad readjust the fuel mixture located on the left side of the carburetor otherwise this is normal.

I'd try the fuel pump or the fuel pressure regulator. Maybe the fuel pump relay or fuse . Hopefully a simple fix...

From the factory yes it would have a hydraulic clutch ! If not it has been modified at a later date .

the Mazda logo have changed many times thru out the years,

On an RX7 that does not start, the first thing to suspect is always that you have flooded the beast. ALWAYS. So read up on de-flooding, and follow the instructions. An RX7 never ever ever starts when it is flooded. A standard compression guage doesn't work on a rotary, so you may not have good compression unless yours is the correct type. Also check your basic timing. Is it anywhere close to making sense? An RX7 is a very high voltage system--it does not tolerate poor electrical connections well at all (but a Detroit or Japanese car will). If you don't have a strong spark, check the coil and other ignition components. Make sure all 12 volt connections are very clean--i.e. bright metal. Start with the battery terminals, the battery wires, the battery ground point on the engine (often a culprit, since it is easy for it to corrode). Inspect your battery cables as well, as they may be needing replacement. Be sure your battery is fully charged--it should read in the 13 volt range when fully charged. And be sure you get a heavy duty one, since you need capacity to de-flood an engine away from home. Make sure your coils are both working. Did you replace the ignition wires recently? Again, on a high voltage system, they must be in very good condition for the engine to run well. All that said, the old mantra is that if an engine doesn't start, check compression, fuel delivery and ignition. You've already checked the compression. Have you tried starting fluid? If it fires up with a little starting fluid you've narrowed down the problem. If that doesn't help, check for ignition. Pull a plug wire, connect it to a spare sparkplug and lay it on a solid metal surface on the engine. Crank the engine and see if you have a strong spark. If starting fluid started the engine, check the fuel pump and whatever a rotary engine uses as a carb or injector.

Yes it does. It's called a limited slip differential. Posi would refer to the Chevy brand rear end. No you don't have posi. Yes you have a LSD.

pretty good explanation here...http://auto.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm

Turbos gone bro :S

With a timing light of course. Your crank pully should have 2 marks on it, the first mark is for the leading plugs and is 5 degrees AFTER top dead center (atdc) and the second mark is for trailing and is 20 degrees AFTER top dead center (atdc). Your 85 should have vacuum advance on your distributer, be sure to unplug the vacuum line and cap it off while stetting your timing. Trust me when I say, use only your timing marks, playing with your timing on rotaries causes all sorts of problems

If the car has been sitting for sometime you may have carbon lock. Assuming the battery and the starter are good, you need to remove the spark plugs and squirt ALOT of WD-40 into the rotor housings. Let it soak for a few hours, then with the car in 4th gear, FIRMLY rock the car back and fourth to see if the engine budges at all.

As a safety precaution you should unplug the MAF sensor (the big plug going into the side of the airbox) while doing the following. Unplugging this sensor cuts the power to the fuel pump so no fuel will be in the engine.

If you can get the engine to move ( pulleys will turn as the car rolls), then try the starter again ( no spark plugs). You may only get incremental movement at first, so repeat the above steps until the engine spins freely. Then reinstall the plugs, reconnect the MAF, and give it a try at starting. You will get a lot of smoke from the wd-40 at start up, but that will clear.

If the the wd-40 doesn't unbudge the engine, you can try pouring Automatic Transmission fluidinto the plug holes and letting it sit overnight or longer, and doing the same thing as above.

Good luck!

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With a stock ecu from factory 98 premium. You can get it remapped (standalone) to use e85. Simple answer : premium unleaded. I use shell optimax and it serves me well. I have a 250hp fc turbo softop

Replace the convertible door seal.

20-50w non synthetic

R-12

Under revised standards:

15 City 21 Hwy For Turbo II

15 City 21 Hwy For N/A with Automatic Transmission

15 City 22 Hwy For N/A with Manual Transmission

If a person would like to purchase a used Mazda RX7, it is easy to do so. The Mazda RX7 is available at any Mazda or Mitsubishi dealership which specializes in used vehicles. Additionally, a person may check their local automobile classified advertisements for a used Mazda RX7.

Mazda RX7 for sure! It has more horsepower, better acceleration and shifting is also better then Silvia S15, but in a corner S15 is better, because it has better handling and shifting after a brake.

Super unleaded if not your sensors start going out, one by one.

HAHA that's funny Regular unleaded is fine for these cars. No need to spend the extra on super......Use only major brand gas though not the cheaper no names as they get the stale gas from the major guys......

OP is WRONG. your sensors will go out one by one over time anyway, its called normal wear and tear. Regular unleaded 87 octane will work just fine in your saturn. unless you have modified the motor and raised the compression ratio above what it was from the factory. (9.5:1 iirc) unless you are driving a vehicle with a high compression ratio, premium is a waste of money, and midgrade is just a rip off. -airframer1189

Intake Air Thermo Sensor - Dynamic Chamber

12 seconds-1.8. Depends on if it is running on one rotor or a drag car. Be more specific please.

It would be the gaskets between the front middle and rear housings. the "block" is made up of 5 sections put together front middle and rear sections are cast iron and the two rotor housings are aluminium.

nope, the starter should be right at the bottom of the transmission on the driverside.