Mazda RX-7

it should be behind the waterpump, just below the thermostat

yes it is. the only other type of rotary built is the 20b and it is only put in a car called the cosmos. some people do the work so it can be put into an rx-7 but I have only heard of it being put in a FD not the FC.

(Correction)

While you are correct that the 87 RX7 only came with the 13b, there are actually many types of rotary engines

12a: Smaller and carborated

13b

13bt: Turbo and lower compression

13REW: turbo, lower compression, and thicker housing walls

20b: 3 rotor found in the Eunos Cosmos

26b: 4 rotor used in the Mazda 787B to win the Le Mans 24 hour race on its first try

13b-MSP: 2 rotor in the RX8, very high compression and altered exhaust system

and that is just listing the rotaries that are still found in current production cars.....it has a very rich history for an "Experimental" engine

erm, dude. if this is a 13b engine it wont have cylinders or pistons, its a wankel (rotary) engine. wont even have a valves. you get two specifically shapped triangles (called rotors) inside a trochoidal shaped housing which are mounted on an eccentric shaft - similar in operation to the crank shaft of a piston engine. search rotary engine illustrated on google and this should show how the engines internals move around in comarison to each other part. if this engine does indeed have cylinders then it has had an engine swap at some point which makes your job a hell of alot easier as the need for a specialist to look at it is now longer a necessity. if it is indeed the rotary engine that came with the car then i would seek an RX7 specialist as in my experience (this is not meant as an insult) if you dont know what your doing with these car you end up breaking more than your fix. but if you really want to have a stab at it yourself then see the below thing it could possibly be. Leaky Injector Low Compression on one/both Rotor(s) (should be 100-85psi Map Sensor giving false or no info Coolant Temp Sensor giving false or no info faulty ECU - usually realted to a burnt out resistor on the mother board. coroded wiring tuned Incorrectly - either by incorrect mapping or timing set incorrectly.

not sure what your asking is even a question - more a collection of words with a question mark at the end but this may be relevant to your ques... i mean words..

Torque per se does not affect a car's acceleration ability. The spread of torque between the engine's maximum speed and the corresponding speed for the next higher gear does. If your car drops significantly from its torque peak when you change gear (that's you, Celica VVTi) then that can affect your acceleration.

All the talk in magazines about torque being important in the real world is because most people are conditioned by the government to drive at low engine speed, and expect to be able to accelerate hard from low revs. In reality a more powerful car will always be faster than a less powerful car, regardless of their respective torque outputs, given the proviso above, if driven to the engine's power peak.

In respect of the RX-7, which is beautifully geared to drop neatly into the meat of secondary turbo boost for every new gear, you can rest assured that the relatively low torque output is completely irrelevant so long as you rev to just short of the bleeper.

And, let's face it, that's what you'd do anyway right?

HP is rated at 255bhp on paper however due to a gentlemans agreement between auto makers in japan at the time Mazda lied about the power output. Cars tested leaving the factory were found to be more like 300+bhp in the higher spec models (R1 / R2 models)

at the time in japan all major car makers agreed they wouldn't make cars more than 255bhp. hence why Mazda embelished the truth somewhat.

hope this helps, as you can tell i have an awfull lot of time on my hands.

they only come with one engine. a 1.1L carbureted 12A rotary.

Rebuild. While the thing is taken apart it might as well be best to replace all seals.

more to the point why would you want to?? anyway if you are sure you want to do this there will be a fuse in the engine bay labelled EGI in the manual. this will disable spark, injectors and fuel pump. car will still turn over though.

Not worth it in my oppinion. You will need new computer and harness, different transmission, drive shaft, not to mention the hole you have to cut in the floor.

I do not agree. It can indeed be done if you are up for some late nights. I just converted my 1996 Dakota from an automatic to a standard. It took about 3 weeks (evenings and weekends), and ended up only costing me around $2500. I got a donor truck for under $1000 and it was just odds and ends. Watch out for the Crank Angle Sensor, which will need to be replaced (auto reads from torque converter and manual from the flywheel). Also, be advised to expect delays and problems. Mine already had the hole in the firewall for the clutch assembly, and cutting a hole in the floor is not hard with the right tools. Good luck if you try to do it, in my opinion the work is worth the end result.

Bad Apex seal

4 plugs 2 leading 2 trailing.

One thing that can make the cruise control stop working is if the contacts are shot or have become corroded. It is also possible that the fuse is blown or that the module needs to be replaced.

On the Driver side on the engine, behind the power steering. There is a round black or silver piece with two little screw heads in it. Leave those alone... There is a 10mm bolt that allows you to adjust timing (retard/advance) and it's blocked my a factory piece, just break off that plastic piece of crap from the bolt and you can loosen the bolt, then adjust or distributor or the actual name is "Crank Position Sensor".

You can timing the car just like a regular pushrod car. Get your timing light and put the iductive cable on the L1 of the spark plug wire closest to the coil pack.

You will need a special wrench to get the giant nut in the center off. It is torqued to 300+ lb-ft.

rebuild or replace.....you have a serious issue there

the proper plugs come pre-gapped. you do not need to adjust them.

A clunking noise in the rear of your 1987 RX-7 when shifting could be due to several issues. Common causes include worn or damaged differential mounts, loose or failing suspension components, or problems with the driveshaft or rear axle. It's important to inspect the rear suspension and drivetrain components for any signs of wear or damage. If the issue persists, consulting a mechanic familiar with RX-7s is recommended for a thorough diagnosis.

The timing for a 1985 Mazda RX-7, equipped with the 12A rotary engine, is typically set at 8 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) at idle speed. It's important to ensure that the engine is at operating temperature and that the vacuum advance is disconnected when setting the timing. Always refer to the vehicle's service manual for the most accurate specifications and guidelines for your specific model.

To set the trailing timing on an '84 RX-7, first, ensure the engine is warmed up and running at idle. Use a timing light to check the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. Adjust the trailing timing by loosening the distributor hold-down bolt and rotating the distributor slightly while monitoring the timing light until it aligns with the specified angle for trailing timing. Finally, tighten the distributor bolt and recheck the timing to ensure it remains accurate.