Mountain Biking

The 2009 Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 3 fork may fit a 2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport, but you need to consider several factors, including the fork's steerer tube diameter, axle compatibility, and overall geometry. The Hardrock typically uses a 1 1/8” steerer tube, which is compatible with the Dirt Jumper, but you'll also need to ensure the axle type (QR or thru-axle) matches your wheel. Additionally, check the head tube length and the brake mount compatibility to ensure proper installation. Always consult the manufacturer's specifications for both components to confirm compatibility.

Rhino mountain bikes are manufactured by the company Rhino Bikes, which specializes in producing a range of bicycles, including mountain, road, and hybrid bikes. The brand focuses on delivering quality and performance, catering to both casual riders and serious enthusiasts. Rhino Bikes often features durable components and innovative designs suited for various terrains.

That would be the two bits of the frame that extends forwards horizontally from where the rear wheel is clamped to the frame to the thick tube that holds the axle that the cranks rotate around. The two bits that goes up towards the saddle(assuming a standard diamond frame) are called seat stays.

about 50-60 psi for uphill riding

"Harder" is a strange choice of words, most people find MTB easier to ride due to their more upright riding position. Not that riding a road bike is particularly difficult.

I guess what you really mean is why they are slower, or need more effort to reach the same speed as a road bike.

Many people blame the gear ratio but that's very rarely the reason.

First thing is usually tires. Wide, knobbly, thick-sidewalled and low-pressure MTB tires have a huge rolling resistance compared to a slick, high-pressure road tire.

Next thing is probably suspension elements.

Absolutely worst is a full-suspension MTB w/o lock-out. Every time you push on the pedals some of that energy goes into compressing the frame.

With a stiff road frame this isn't much of an issue, as the energy will eventually make its way into the drivetrain anyhow. But if you have suspension elements on the bike these will steal some of this pedalling energy from you. Bikes with lock-out (where you turn the suspension elements rigid)are better, but quite pricey.

Then there's rotating weight and stationary weight. Not much of a concern for top speed, but the lighter the wheels and the bike as a whole, the more nimble it will feel at take off. And road bikes, which are not expected to have to survive a 2-3 foot drop, can be quite a lot lighter.

Finally, as you begin to pile on speed (say, 12 MPH and above), aerodynamics begins to play a role. Chunky wheels, chunky frame and an upright riding position will begin to make itself know when compared to a sleek road bike and a hunched over position.

Another issue is original quality. MTBs tends to be available in what's called "department store bikes", or among some riders/mechanics BLOs(=Bike-Looking Objects) and can be quite horrible in terms of overall quality. Road bikes as a rule aren't available at quite that low level of quality, which screws up the comparison base. Pitting a $250 MTB against a $2000 road bike shouldn't have anyone surprised regarding the results.

With that said, don't forget the rider. Throw a pair of high-pressure slicks on a rigid MTB, set the bar up low and you should be good to keep up with roadies until they begin to stray over 20 MPH - unless they're simply much fitter than you.

== == ISO stands for "International Organization for Standardization" and is taken from the Greek word "isos", meaning equal. See www.iso.org. ISO has replaced the older ASA designation.

As for how it relates to film, it is an indicator of the film's sensitivity to light. Light sensitive crystals are an all or nothing proposition. They either react and are subsequently developed, or they do not, and the speed at which they react is the same for any given film. Therefore, if someone tells you it means how fast the film can react, they are technically incorrect. Film speed is more a function of the size of the crystals (grains), but speed is how it's described. The increase in sensitivity is a result of larger grains "grabbing" more light than smaller ones during any given exposure time. If this is difficult to grasp, think of them as tiny buckets gathering light. Larger ones gather more in the same time, thus laying down more image. However, a noticeable increase in the graininess of the image is usually associated with fast film, especially if it is enlarged to any great degree. Also, it is safe to say that doubling the number 400 vs 200) means the film is twice as "fast".

**************** ISO 100 is wonderful for using when there is a good daylight or when you have bright light. ISO 400 is what you would use to photograph when there is low light, like when you are indoors, or at dusk or twilight. Then there are films which have ISO1600 or ISO3200, which you would use also in low light, but these would allow for faster shutter speeds. You need to use a fast shutter speed to freeze any sort of action when you are photographing sports, action or even fast moving wildlife or birds. Usually well over 1/500th of a second. You may need to change your ISO setting to 400 to 800 if you want to use high shutter speeds, on not-so-bright days, that are overcast, cloudy or without sunlight. (note: changing the ISO setting on a digital camera between shots is OK. With film cameras, it is not advisable to use a setting other than what the film calls for unless it is done for the whole roll of film, and then, only if you know what you're doing. Micron)

IMO there isn't that much practical difference between similarly priced bike computers. Find one with the features you want and a user interface you like and you're good to go.

no a lawnmower engine is too big try a weedwaker engine

If it's got drop bars it's called a cyclocross (CX) bike

I purchased a Dorado Sherpa mountain bike from a shop in Mill Valley (Marin County), California in January 1989 for about $400 and it is still in good shape - my wife rode it today, over 20 years later. It was a small bike shop so I assume that the bike was made right there in Mill Valley.

Probably not, as all the trails are footpaths, and there are lots of wardens around usually.
For Mountain Biking in the Louth area, try www.louthnet.com/LAMB.

over 6 weeks ago

sandblast and powder coat or you can use a wire wheel on a drill

I'm assuming that by "front sprocket" you are referring the gears attached to the crankarms, referred to as "chainrings". If you are removing the outer two rings, use a 5mm allen wrench to remove the four chainring bolts attaching the rings to the crank. To remove the inner ring, you will have to remove the crank from the bottom bracket, a process requiring a specialized tool known as a "crank puller". For either of these processes, though, consider consulting your local bike shop to make sure you are taking the correct approach and not damaging or degrading your bike.

You have to send a letter or an e-mail to the company you want to sponsor you saying why you should be sponsored and what your times and places are (all your team members if you want them to sponser a team you are on). just look up their e-mail or address on a search engine. (it would be easier to e-mail)

Easy now there is 2 mountain bike trails that are good for beginners in Aspen Colorado. One is to the east called " East Mountain Bike Trails for Beginners in Aspen Colorado". And the 2nd one is to the west called " West Mountain Bike Trails for Beginners in Aspen Colorado".

28.6 lbs

Yes, significantly so. If you think about it, a lot of your expended energy is being lost through 'vertical' movement when what really makes you go faster is 'horizontal' movement. The thicker tread tyres on your mountain bike will also slow you down due to increased rolling resistance.

Anything from $50 to $800

I've been searching for answers on the web, but I can't find any conclusion on what is the minimum tire clearance for mtb frames. I got Fuji Tahoe 1.1 27.5 frame, I'm almost done building my first MTB and I want to make sure I get the right tire for me.

I got a 23mm inner width rim, planning to put 2.4" Maxxis Ardent tires but not sure if it will be enough. I measured the between the chainstays, it has 70-71mm apart. Please help!

Only thing I can find on K2 bikes is a price range of $240-$270.