Paint Jobs

Yes, but not directly... Bleach will remove any wax on the paint which will make it look dull or "swirly". If new wax isn't re-applied, the paint will fade from the sun and other contaminants in the atmosphere.

Many things, such as: * Weather (rain, sleet snow) * Surface you are painting (is the wood chipped?, is the wall damaged) * How you mix the paint (did i add too much of this? or not enough) * The type of brush you use (is this thing to small for this big of a job?) * Surroundings (will this get in the way? will paint drip on this?) * Sunlight (will the sun make this side dry faster than that side?)

There are several techniques.

1. If very rusty clean what you can and then take a torch and heat until you you see it's getting slightly red. Then try to unscrew it right away.

2. If not very rusty use ATF or WD40 or similar sprays on it leave to penetrate for 10-20 minutes then try to unscrew.

And many other techniques but it depend on materials around bolts and also from a quality and material of bolts too.

Pour brake fluid on the car! Or you could run it into a tree. that usually wipes out a good paint job. then there's the ever useful sandpaper, hammer, key and chisel.

It is a great idea, if you want to protect the paint and make it look new. Years ago, they put a clear coat over paint to help protect it, but this only lasts so long before it begins to deteriorate or show signs of wear.

At least once, but ideally at least twice a year, get a simple polish or wax to protect the paint/clear coat. For your average car, it takes about an hour to do. Good Luck!

Yes, rust can be removed.

Federal 209A primers are hotter than Federal 209 primers and are hotter than Winchester or Remmington or CCI 209 primers. To duplicate your load when substituting Federal 209A primers in place of any other 209 primer, use 1 grain less powder for like performance.

When you say a engine is locked, many scenarios can come into play. If the vehicle has been running recently and has A/C, make sure the compressor is not froze up as the starter will not turn over an engine if this is the case. You may have to remove the belt to verify this. In all other instances, first remove the spark plugs. By doing this you are reducing compression or resistance. If the starting system is up to par, (battery, starter) disable the ignition system and try to crank the engine. If not try to rotate the crankshaft with the appropiate socket and ratchet or breaker bar. If it rotates, notice if fluid (water or anti-freeze comes out of any spark plug holes. If it does, then the engine was hydrolocked. Air can be compressed, but water cannot. Meaning a bad head or gasket. If engine doesn't rotate and has been sitting for a long time (as in years), then pour a small among of oil into each plug hole to help break any rust buildup. Some people recommend using PB Blaster spray. Some others even say to use brake fluid. This procedure may require an overnight or 2 of soaking. If you do get the engine to turn but only partway in either direction, you may be looking at some serious broken part inside the engine which in turn will translate into disassembly to find the culprit. Hope this helps you.

on the fire wall under the hood.

wipe off with laquer thinner

You can wash it right away after the paint is dry, but it is recommended you allow the paint to cure. Depending on the type of paint used, two to three weeks is not unusual.

You can paint a car with a Wagner multi sprayer but it may not coat it finely enough. You should probably use a commercial type sprayer that is used to paint cars.

the difference is one is a Mercedes paint the other is a bercedes paint

This is called a CAP as in Truck Cap. They usually have a "boot seal" which is a gasket (kind of like the door gasket-rubber seal your vehicle has) that keep it sealed the the vehicle's cab and or cushioned for vibration, noise etc. They can also be called "shells". A half-size one that extends from the back of the truck's cab and maybe about 30" back (not covering the full box obviously) is called a Sleeper Cap as in like the ones behind a tractor trailer "Semi". A sleeper cap is great if your truck has a slider window that you can remove and just enter from the truck's interior or store stuff in there-groceries, pets etc.

If you want to have a nice looking finish that will last mare than a day, then you really need to sand it.

If the existing paint job on the car is perfect already, and all you want to do is change the colour, I'd use some 800 then 1000 grit paper very lightly. Be sure that ALL dust is removed (alcohol works well) before painting.

Paint in a dust free environment

Use resiprator and paint suit.

Usually a 1.5 tip is prefferred when spraying clear coat.

The paint code is located on the option label in the trunk.

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no but any type of oil will

painting it over black

You mean like vandalism kinda paint or remove the paint to repaint the hood? You could try using a buffer and rubbing compound to remove the first. The second all you need to do is scuff the shiny off the hood. It will turn a whitish color then you can repaint it. Hope this helps.

well the most obvious would be that one is waxed and the other isnt. i prefere waxed better because it feels better when lacing up and its keeps my skates tighter.

Automotive paint is made up of many different colored "toners" which are essentially pure colors of paint made up of pigment, solvent and resin. These colors are mixed together to reproduce any other color. Auto paint manufacturers generate formulas which instruct the person mixing the paint of how much of each toner to add in order to reproduce the desired color. After the color is mixed in the case of basecoat it is simply reduced (thinned) with solvent. In the case of single stage paints and clear coats that color (or clear) is not only mixed with reducer but also a catalyst (hardener) to cause an interlocking process known as a chemical drying process which makes this paint resistant to other solvents and contaminants, this keeps the auto paint from ever wiping off when re-wetted with a solvent.

You should use exactly the same "pool paint" used originally, when the pool was manufactured. It's called gelcoat and can only be purchased online. Until 1999, fiberglass pool owners were forced to use epoxy, which lasts only a few years before chaulking, peeling, and cracking. Now there's a product called fibre-shelkote which is exactly the same formulation that lasted more than 20 years after your pool was built. But you'll need to call a sandblasting contractor to remove the old gelcoat before you can roll-on the new stuff.

Hum, are you certain that your pool needs to be painted. Has it been painted before. How old is the pool? Maybe it just needs to be drained and cleaned. You need to be certain that has been painted in the first place.

A lot depends on how long the egg had been on the car, and how old the paint is. If you got it washed off right away and it left a stain you might be able to get it off with a fine grit rubbing compound. If that will not do it you may need to use a high speed buffer with a course compound, then followed up by a real fine compound and polish. If none of this takes care of the problem, IT'S PAINT JOB TIME.

I have only had to do one egg repair. I got the car the day after the egg hit it. I found that the shells are very sharp, and actually cut the paint. I would recommend close inspection with a magnifying glass if you don't see paint breakage. If you do see that the paint has been pierced, it needs to be repainted in that area.

Get the moisture back into the egg. Wet the area down, take a clean, wet rag and lay it over it, keep it wet for a half hour and check it. keep it wet until it wipes off.

Hi i had your problem to what i did was buy some "Bugs B gone" its in a white and red spray bottle you get it from auto zone i think it was ten dollars but most autozones sell it for six dollars its really for bugs but will get all the eggs off your car and will not take any of your paint

Bricks don't rust