Paint Jobs

yes you can!

dnt paint only!

No specific number as what you are going for is the color to be even all around. Once it is even than a clear coat is applied. If you are asking how much paint it will take to paint a car depends on the cars size. A 70 Chevelle doing a color change without a vinyl top takes right at a gallon

The best way to paint metal is a rather simple process: 1) sand or grind any imperfections or rust as best as possible 2) patch holes or use bondo filler if needed and smooth again 3) Apply a coat of primer (best results from an air powered spray gun; gravity fed is the best imo). let dry 4) apply desired paint colour with the spray gun (after its been cleaned with thinner). let dry 5) seal the paint colour with a clear coat finish. this is also applied with the spray gun after cleaning out the paint. clear coat comes in a variety of finishes from high gloss to flat matte.

Yes, that was the original intention of urethane.

Of course! If it's a shiny finish you'll want to sand it before you paint it. But other than that it shouldn't be an issue at all for you to paint it. Just use thin coats and let it dry thoroughly between the coats.

Assuming you are using a dye-based spray on stain, yes, if the gloss is already set up and scuffed! However,while spraying or applying, gloss is too wet/tacky to work with between coats! As I do at work using Acrylic Polyurethane paints onto cabinet parts, your best bet is to apply a first coat of satin, stain over that, then a final coat of satin to seal the stain! (NEVER apply gloss over an unsealed dye based stain, as the heavy material will have a tendency to pull your stain and make the color look uneven!) As soon as the satin is flashed off (10-30min, depending on paint and temp.) you can apply your gloss. This is the method we have used for decades on HIGH quality cabinets!

I wouldn't if it was my driveway. I'd power wash it off first then the driveway coatings would stick better.

The best answer I can think of is:

Walk away and do something else for a few minutes. When you come back, it's dry.

Watching it dry is like watching a pot waiting for it to boil.

If you are desperate, use a hair dryer, but don't get too close. It will blister.

The perfect humidity is when is hot outside because the paint dries faster end it would look better.

i guess you could but regular acrylic will come off just from everyday wear and tear. but i guess if you just have it to be pretty like a decoration you could.

Lacquer thinner should do it for you,don't know how much area you have to remove paint from& or the kind of paint that's on the chrome, but as a rule lacquer thinner will remove most all kinds paint, ya might have to put some on a rag and soak it a bit then rub hard, please note lacquer thinner is very explosiveDONT HAVE AROUND OPEN FLAME OR SMOKE WHILE YOU USE IT,also it wont hurt chrome but be careful using lacquer thinner on other types of materials, as it will take finish off, or destroy in some cases, another way to remove some paints from chrome is to pressure wash with a 2400 psi unit, using a 20 degree tip, but caution don't let it hit your auto surface or it will take paint from auto also, hope this info helps you with your problem,

Yes, it is possible.

You will need to get to a good Craft/Art supply retailer and find the paints recommended for painting on glass and porcelain.

Next you must remove the knobs from the cabinet and clean them carefully to remove any traces of oils. Then paint away... the manufacturer will have instructions on the bottle for "setting" the paint. This usually requires baking them in an oven for a set time. Once this is done, just remount them and you have a whole new look.

NOTE, this works best if the knobs you currently have are white as most of the glass/porcelain paints I have found are not completely opaque, and multiple coats increase your chances of streaks or other flaws in the finish.

The common crow is found throughout the U.S., and they can land just about anywhere for just about any reason that fits the bird's agenda. Nothing more. If the question is designed to elicit a spiritual or metaphysical evaluation of the crow's choice of an auto for a landing zone, then the question might be asked differently. I have read that to cross paths with a black crow is a good love omen.

If you are using polyurathane paint, using a general purpose lacquer thinner is not recommended, other than for cleaning equipment afterwards. For application, use only the correct thinners, of the same brand as the paint.

The only thing you will do when you block sand your primer is to make the car straighter. I painted my car black which is the most difficult color to look right and using a high build primer blocked it 5 times in one area just to get it right. This is a step that should be done to make your car look amazing. Do your first block with 150 next at 220 next at 320, 400 up to 600. Depending on how straight the car was to begin with you can skip the first couple of steps. As the car should be 220'd when you do your filler. You bet block sanding primer will only make it more beautiful make sure to use a board that is flat and depending on the size of the panel will determine the size of the board. Do your blocking with diagonal swipes only as back and forth motions will dig into the surface of the primer and make ridges.

One gallon of good exterior paint can cost anywhere between $30-45. It will cover 260-300 square feet depending on the surface. that brings the approximate square foot cost to about 12 -16 cents per .

You can thicken runny interior paint as long as it is a latex paint. You can use a thickening agent called cellosize hydroxyethyl cellulose. Do not put more than twenty five percent of this agent into the paint or you will not be able to roll it.

When you sand a spot on a wall you remove the paint that area, causing the surface to absorb the your top coat at a different rate than the rest of the wall. To reduce or eliminate this problem always prime any area after you sand in order to seal the spot.

Polyurethane is made for painting wood pre-finished surfaces. Depending on the condition of the surface of the wood you can easily judge the prep work that is needed. If there are obvious spots that need filling like nails or screws that are countersinked create a gap between the nail in the hole you will need to first get wood putty to fill in those holes. You can also (and i highly recommend doing this!) get sawdust from the existing wood type and mix it in with the wood putty. This creates a almost untraceable and make the wood look like you didn't put any nails into it. It takes about 1-2 hours for wood putty to dry if you get the wood putty in a small tin that you add water to it dry's much faster. ( i would saw about 1 part water 2 parts saw dust 2 parts putty compound) After all the defects of the wood are done you can start sanding your wood, (I usually use 220 sand paper for most woods) its very easy depending on the condition of your wood. You also want to remove all types of oil and other types of grim like that off wood to because it will make the poly not bond right and will make the project look like crap :X. After sanding get a wet cloth, or a tack-rag and wipe down all of the sawdust free from the substrate. (surface to be finished) After that you will need a small wood trim brush or a normal 4 inch brush depending on the size of the project. Finding the right poly is also a must, there are many different types of poly and some require more skill than others to prefect. I usually use indoor/outdoor compatible wood poly bought at Sherwin Williams. Once you find the right poly you are going to want to put a thin layer of poly on a practice piece of wood if you have never applied polyurethane before it is a delicate process that is master carefully. When you apply your first coat its the coat that seals the poly to the wood. You must be careful not to put poly on to think around edges and corner for it will drip and that is the worst thing that can happen... its very hard to fix depending on the degree of drips, its not like paint drips in much more delicate work than that. I dip the brush usually about 1/5 the length of the brush and start in the middle of the surface of the wood and spread out a even light coat of poly for the first coat. Now poly takes about 4-6 hours to dry depending on what type it is, and i wouldn't recommend touching it until at least 3 hours its better actually to just wait the full time. Then sand because it will feel dry on the surface but it could still be wet underneath the wood where it's trying to bond with the wood surface. After than you must very lightly sand the poly surface you don't have to put any pressure really on it either you can just pass you hand before you add the second coat. You will notice its rough and very coarse. Once sanded it will feel smooth and you must get a damp rag or tack-rag again and take of all of the dust. I usually put three coats on the surface before i call it done.

You can paint a lot of things. It depends on what you are painting. If you are painting metal then use metal paint if you are painting wood then use wood paint if you are painting something flexible such as rubber, thin plastic, or fabric then use vinyl paint. Some objects require primer which you put on before you put on paint to make the paint stick. Most wood objects require paint to be rolled on such as a house or any another large wooden object. Smaller wooden objects would be easier to spray paint such as a wooden chair. All metal objects and some wooden objects need to be painted with a professional paint sprayer that hooks up to an air compressor. All metal objects have to be spray painted. And all objects need to be sanded before painting to make the paint stick.

Good Luck :)

It's a type of plastic materials , chemically it's simple a polymer consist of billions of repeating unites is called Urethane which is an ester of Carbamic Acid with any diol (alcohol with difunctional groups "OH" )

Generally speaking, you don't brush lacquer....it has to be sprayed. With that being said there are probably some products that you can brush on if you feel that you must. You would want to use either a china bristle brush, or a "natural" brush. Please know that when you use lacquer thinner to clean your brushes, it may soften the glue that bonds the bristles to the handle.

I would use a polyurethane or urethane if you need to apply it by brush. You can put either on top of lacquer if you want to (but you cannot put a lacquer on top of the poly).