Paint Jobs

Enamel paint is oil or alkyd. Alkyd paint is probably the most well known type of oil paint available on the market. The word alkyd actually refers to the synthetic resin used as a binder in the paint. This would be the oil in the paint, most commonly vegetable oil. Alkyd paints also come in a wide variety of finishes making it ideal for multiple different projects.

Alkyd paint is very resistant to normal wear and tear. Thus, this type of paint is used commonly in "high traffic" type areas. This would include doors and trim within a home and also items that would need painting in the kitchen and bathroom such as cabinets. The alkyd paint will hold up to all the abuses that may come its way.

Acrylic enamel is a water based full gloss usually for interior surfaces only. The gloss is nearly as high as gloss enamel but it is not quite as durable. One advantage is that if you are using white it does not discolor over time as much as alkyd based enamel. Also from a professional point i have never found the finish to be as good as enamel with less than three coats.

To get a clearer picture we should know what enamel is and what epoxy is. According to The Free Dictionary by Farflex, enamel is "A paint that dries to a hard glossy finish" and epoxy is, "a thermosetting resin; used chiefly in strong adhesives and coatings and laminates." When epoxy is used as a primer for the purposes of adhesion resistance then we cannot call it enamel. Therefore, epoxy enamel is a synthetic paint based on alkyd resin used as a coating medium on metal, wood, and concrete where hardness and good flexibility are required. Epoxy coatings appear glossy with increased resistance to spillage of chemicals, solvents, and grease.

EPOXY PAINT and/or EPOXY ADHESIVES can literally be applied to virtually anything. But its very important to remember that as with any 'over-layer' type applications like what we are speaking about, preparation is 90% of a superior job. i say 'superior' because why bother to do a project if your going to do it 1/2-butt since you'll only be stuck with a larger, much more troublesome PROBLEM INSTEAD OF YOUR ORIGINAL project. PREPARATIONS: Keep in mind that for either one of your EPOXY products the surface must, not just should, be free of oils, dirt, etc. especially oily substances since this is one of the few things that make it difficult for most applications to properly adhere to, although like i said previously EPOXY can stick to just about anything, with the exception of 'fruits & vegetables'(and you know who you are). And imagine if you will, that it demands something to stick to or perhaps a better word would be 'GRIP' to. So scraping, sanding, sand-blasting, wire-brushing and the like are all means to prepping a surface properly. Then thoroughly clean the surface(s) and avoid cleaning with soapy-types and most others that tend to leave residuals. H2O is fine. Alcohol, rocket-fuel(which evaporates very quickly) or acetone work very well cleaning most things but when prepping plastics, alcohol is less damaging. Mineral Spirits would be my 2nd choice since it does leave a bit more residue than the others, but usually is none problematical. Oh, with wood, vac it off instead of just wiping. That should do it folks. Any more questions i suppose you can reach me through this service.

Paint is available today that combines sealer properties with top coat.Determine if the timber on your house will be compatible with this type of paint.Otherwise a water-based primer/sealer is fine,remembering that some timbers require special paint.

There are two common causes that result in "splatter" when spraying paint. One is that the paint was not filtered (strained) when it was put into the pot. Those in a hurry pour in the paint, slap the gun on the pot, connect an air hose, and start shooting. Unfiltered paint can have things in that cause "blobs" or "splattering" to occur. This leads us to cause number two. Paint that builds up on the nozzle of a spray rig can cause the paint to come out in something other than a mist. Unstrained paint can easily leave "blobs" of paint in the nozzle, and then you have to stop and clean your rig. Paint in spray cans is strained before it's put in, but the user is still obligated to keep the nozzle clear of paint build up, and to keep that nozzle clean. Nozzles always get a bit of paint build up. It is unavoidable. Anything other than strained paint in a paint gun is an invitation to sloppy work. Work in a clean place, and strain your paint into the pot or reservoir. Keep the nozzle of your gun or spray can clean, too. Insure your paint is properly mixed and thinned when mixing your own finish. Spray cans are "ready to go" but users often do not agitate the cans sufficiently. Shake the darn can, clean the nozzle, and let your skill in preparing the surface and applying the finish determine the quality of the job. You have control over much of the process. Do not sidestep anything that the "best" painters would do, and you work will reflect your best efforts.

Latex paint is rubberized....and it wants to stick to everything it comes in contact with, which is one of the beauties of paint. However, if you want to be able to peel paint off of something you have applied it to, just about the only way to achieve that would be to rub some Vaseline onto the surface in question. Baby powder will also work if you use enough of it.

what kind of paint?? How long has the original paint been on there?

Many times, the "vehicle" (solvent) in the polyurethane will cause the existing paint to curdle or wrinkle if it is a water based/latex paint. If it has been on there a long time though, you might be able to get away with it.

See if you can test a small spot that is not exposed or visible first. Even if it "tests" OK, it still might have a tendency to pull the existing paint up when you get it on a large area, so be careful

Single coat ,100sqft

Double coat 50sqft

You can paint over your old primer, just make sure to clean your wall with TSP. And for your second question, to paint over your concrete wall you wanna make sure it's primed to seal all the pores in the concrete.

220 3m its a finer sand paper you can take the paint as low as you want with it it works great. You should always prime over a 220 grit scratch. It is the perfect size grit. If you are sanding primer so you can apply topcoat, finish with 400grit dry on a machine (DA) or 500 wet sand for a solid color enamel. Basecoat products, particularly metallics and pearls, need to be applied over a substrate that has been wet sanded with 600 grit.

It depends on the surface to be primed. If it is a good surface such as one that has already been painted and is in good shape, there may be no need to prime. Bare metal would require at least 2 in most cases and sometimes more

Just what it says. Fine metal particles, or plastic particles, that make the finish sparkle in the sunlight. Modern metallic paint is called "clear over base" or COB. the metallic base is single pack, over which is applied a 2-pack clear.It is more difficult and time consuming and costs more.

Don't waste your money painting over it that's not necessary get some 1500 wet sanding paper and some rubbing compound wet sand it then compound it either by hand or a wheel if your not experienced with a wheel Id recommend doing it by hand or you can create more damage.

Yes. Pigments are blended into an oil base to form an emulsion. The pigments are ground finely (with a range of particle sizes sought out deliberately), and the drying oil is formulated to "hold its shape" on the canvas, and to gradually escape the medium leaving the pigment behind. A link can be found below.

If on poster paper, it's usually dry within an hour.

There is a color called "Alizarin Crimson," which is crimson and a true red. You could mix cad red med with a bit of black and dioxine violet.

This depends on what color you want. Generally speaking, start with a color that's close to what you want. It's easier if you start with one that's a little lighter, rather than darker, than your target color. Let's say you want lavender. Start with light blue, and add red just a little at a time, stirring thoroughly as you go along. If you want darker lavender, don't add black -- add dark blue. If you want it lighter you can add either white or a really pale blue or pink. Or, take your existing paint to a paint store, look at their color charts, and ask the staff there to mix it up for you. Also, if you have a color you are trying to match (such as fabric), most of the paint stores have the computer matching systems. This is where they place your swatch in front of a camera eye and it sends it to their color matching system in the computer. The computer in turn spits out a formula for your custom color. You can make adjustments right there if you need to. Mixing paint to create your own custom color is a formula for heartbreak. There's not enough pigment in paint to get it to do more than minimal color shifts. Try this, if you'd like: go to a Home Depot store and buy a gallon of the darkest blue paint in the Disney line. Also buy a five-gallon bucket and two gallons of Ultra Pure White paint. (I have done this.) Go home and pour all three gallons of paint into the bucket, then stir to an even color. It won't be very much lighter than it was when you started. All the people who paint with oils are now thinking, "But I mix custom colors with my oils all the time!" You certainly do. But what's the dry time on your oils? Days or weeks. Oils also need a year's curing time before you can varnish them. The more pigment you add to a paint, the longer it takes for the paint to dry, and oils are very pigment-dense. No one in the world would accept wall paint that needed more than a couple hours to dry, or that couldn't be washed for a year. The product used to tint paint is Universal Pigment. They won't sell this to anyone but a paint dealer because they know people would use it as paint and it is horrifically bad as paint--it won't dry and it won't stick when the water in it finally gets around to evaporating. If you want to mix your own custom color, go to a paint store like Sherwin-Williams where the paint mixers have experience and color training, not a home center where the training consists of ten minutes of instruction on which button to push to make the color go into the can.

Spray paint is not harmful to the object you are painting however it is toxic is you drink it or spray it up your nassale passages, but if your apply it to the object you're painting and you get a quick wiff of it you will be fine as long as you do not repeatidly smell it, if you plan on spraying your cat there are the same result as humans, dizzyness, headache.

If the plywood is for an indoor craft project: Water base enamel. For outdoors: Oil base with UV inhibitors

Key is using the proper base or primer or undercoating. Follow paint manufacturer's recommendation.

You can pay almost anything for your paint. You can get a mistake bucket for five dollars from the paint store, and it goes up from there. You could call around to your local paint stores, and they'll tell you of any sales or promotions.

No I can't use primer instead of paint. Because, Primers can also be used for dirty surfaces that for some reason, cannot be cleaned or before painting light colors over existing dark colors. Primers can usually be tinted to a close match with the color of the finishing paint.

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Orange.

Why are you using a primer? If the walls are already painted, just apply 2 coats of the paint that you want to use. If you use primer, have the paint store tint the primer toward the orange color that you have chosen.

Whether or not you've stripped the table down, it must be cleaned, sanded, primed (i like "the Gripper" from home depot...best commercial primer I've used so far),painted, sanded, painted, sanded, top-coated, sanded,top coated. I naturally go for oil on wood. BUT there are those who just don't...Sherwin Williams puts out a cabinet paint available in colors that drys very hard. Ben Moore does too but they just updated their line...check with your local dealer.

Do you mean oil based enamel, or alkyd enamel?

It can, but you will have to prime it with a barrier coat of compatible primer for the new paint to stick to it.

I would not recommend it though. If the latex paint has been around for a long time, you have a better chance of having your new paint last. Is this inside or outside? Is it exposed to temperature extremes? The latex paint will be able to expand and contract more than the oil based enamel. If you can imagine putting paint on a latex glove, letting it dry, then putting the glove on (stretching it) then you will have a good idea (although much more extreme) of what you are asking the paint to do.

If you really must put an oil based enamel on top of latex. Use a good oil based enamel like Kilz or Zinnzer Bullseye before you paint it. After you put the barrier coat on, you will have a limited time to get the other paint on....check the directions.