Subaru Outback

if it is within the 1998 range. Put the car all the way down into first gear (as well as set the parking brake.) then you have to remove the cup holder via two Philips head screws on either side. then there are a couple screws in the ash tray compartment, (once the ash tray is taken out, they are on the top side.) then you should be able to start working that panel off, (you might have to unplug the cigarette lighter port.) once that panel is off, all that's left are four more Philips head screws and you can start working the entire assembly out of the hole.

According to the owners manual, Chains can be used on the outback. They are only to be installed on the front tires.

all o2 sensors mount in the exhaust, normally with one mounted in the manifold, or somewhere in the exhaust pipe in front of the catalitic converter. the other one should be mounted either in the catalitic converter itself, or in exhaust pipe just behind it.

a 50/50 mix of good quality antifreeze and water

Mine is a 5 speed, and I don't know if it's different for an automatic. However, if you're laying under the car, look to the right toward the front of the engine. There's a plastic cover protecting the undercarriage. You'll see an access hole in that cover right below the filter. The filter threads up.

Note: Oil will run down your arm as you remove the filter so you may want to use a rag to keep your grip and the oil off your arm. I also recommend laying a rag on the cover directly below the filter to catch oil that drips. It's hard to clean otherwise. A pair of latex or nitrile gloves is a good idea too.

Look behind the headlight housing and you would find a light grey color cap. Facing the vehicle, hold the cap and turn it anti-clockwise gently but sturdly for about 20-30 degree angle. Once you do that it will pry out and you can change the bulb. I believe the low bean is a H1 55w 12v bulb, which is the top one. If you look carefully - you will find a metal pin on the right side which is holding the bulb in place. Press the metal clip inwards, push down and slowly pry out. Remove the wire connections - remember the location - I believe white wire is for the bulb. CAUTION: Never touch the glass portion of the new bulb. If you do - wipe it clean with a soft cloth - wait 10-15 min for the moisture on the bulb to evaporate and then replace the bulb. When you touch the glass on bulb with your fingers - your finger prints contains moisture that sticks to the bulb and when you turn it on - the instant heat produced will break the bulb glass. Hope this helps.

Here is how I did it,

option A: pull your ebrake up 1 click, I do not recommend it. But that's what I did for a while.

Option B: install a switch onto the wire under the ebrake . I just used a easy quick connect, then took a wire from that to one post of the switch, and then another wire from the other post of the switch to a ground(a bolt where it is in contact with the metal frame of the car) then mount the switch to one of the free toggle plastic inserts.

Either way, it will turn the headlights out but it also will show that the brake is on. until I can investigate it further these are my options...

saves my life of expensive headlight bulbs....

underneath

Its on the lower hose of the radiator you remove to 10mm bolts and make shure you have a bucket under cause it empties the whole coolant system

Most likely couse of the clicking noise while turning (worse when turning sharper, right?) is worn constant velocity (CV) joints in the front axles. There are eight of these on your car, four each front and rear. The rears wear far slower and are less involved in the turning process.

Replacement is the only cure and is typically done by replacing each front drive axle (known as "half-shafts") complete with the new CV joints.

Replacements can be new or reconditioned. Very few shops will just replace the CV joints because the entire assembly is far more economical when labor time is calculated.

Refurbished units are typically done several hundred at a time at some factory somewhere.

The 2012 Subaru Outback is a gas-powered vehicle.

Inside the Fuel Tank, accessible through an service hole cover under the Rear Seat.

prior to 2004 the factory was screwing up the rear wheel bearings in the manufacturing process and they failed prematurely and regularly

Dealers were sent a special tool for their presses so they wouldn't damage the new ones in the install. Dealers do it for about $100

The knock sensor in the 96 legacy outback is mounted on the right side of the engine block underneath the intake manifold.

I recommend having a socket set (with a 12mm socket), plenty of socket extensions, a magnet, a pair or two of pliers, a leaf, and a long skinny screwdriver to accomplish installation and removal of this item.

First, unscrew the bolt by turning counter-clockwise. Second, use the magnet to retrieve the bolt now that it is unscrewed. If you have a larger magnet you can put the magnet on top of your socket wrench (if it is metal) to retrieve the bolt easily. Next, use the two pairs of pliers to pull the knock sensor up out of it's crevice. For easier access to the connection, loop the sensor around behind a metal bar (if facing the front of the vehicle, this would be towards the cabin and left side of the vehicle). Place the white connecting bracket ontop of the nice large metal block that is towards the cabin and use a pair of pliers or screwdriver straight-edge to push the locking piece out of the bracket so the cables can be disconnected. Remove the sensor and install the new one while the cord is in the same place. Loop the sensor and cable back around to where they should be and use the screwdriver to get the sensor face-up and more-or-less aligned with the hole. Put the leaf over the 12mm socket hole and then insert the bolt into the socket. This should provide for a very snug fit of the bolt allowing you to navigate and manuver the bolt with relative ease. Lower the bolt through the sensor and then wiggle the contraption around until the bolt finds the indent of the hole it belongs to. Make certain to hold the wrench straight as you tighten it to reduce the chance of cross-threading. Good luck!

In a little bit more detailed/general description of location: Find the cold air intake for your engine (a big black tube that enters the engine on the side of the vehicle that carries people). Go to the right and follow the top of the engine until you get to the starter cables (the ones that pull when you turn your key in the ignition). The knock sensor is in between these two objects from left to right, and is just towards the cabin of a big metal swoopy object known as the intake manifold. Deep down in this crevice (you probably need about 9 inches of extension on socket wrench with a 12mm socket) there is a solitary bolt that holds in the knock sensor. The sensor itself should be black on the top and have a single cable protruding from it with a white connector on the end that attaches to a grey connector.

If you are mechanically inclined as well as patient, installation and removal is not too difficult. Stand on the side of the vehicle to increase visibilty as well as body leverage for working. I don't know what the torque spec is on the knock sensor, but I know that it is pretty sensitive to how tight it needs to be and overtightening will break it pretty easy. Also, make certain not to cross-thread this when reinstalling as it is threaded into the engine block you'd be in a world of hurt if you messed up. A final word of wisdom is that the sensor and many of the surrounding parts get very hot during operation of the vehicle and retain their heat for a fair period of time - just be careful of this!

This car has a 16.9 gallon gas tank

105,000 miles

There are two different bulbd, 1 for dipped beam and 1 for full beam.

your cv joint is blown. Look under the car. Left or right side. From either wheel headed toward the engine, you will see a rubber boot directly behind the wheel. Look for the boot that is ripped open. You should see grease coming out. If you dont replace this,and it snaps the car wont drive, it is what makes the wheel turn. You can do it yourself for about 60-90 dollars or dealers will want 200-300. Part also known as half shaft,axle.

You need to burp the radiator and cooling system.

there isn't one when you take it to get the oil changed you can ask them to check the fill hole if it has one, if its not leaking don't worry about it until you need to change it at it's suggested milege.

it is extremely gay and if you read this so are you

Our 98 subaru outback started screeching and grinding while turning when the fluid got low enough which was the first clue. Open the reservoir, and fluid was low. The fluid gets everything around the power steering pump wet, and pools on the engine beneath the pump. The pump is on top of the front passenger side of the engine. Eventually the leaked fluid spills from the engine onto the exhaust which makes for some bad smells. As of right now, the leak is bad enough to need filling every couple of days. Some forums have suggested it may simply be a gasket between the reservoir and the pump itself.

The owner's manual lists it at 16.9 US gallons

Of course you can. It is probably a bigger project than you would want though. You may have to remove a fender or at least the plastic fender liner to get to the top of the fender close to the cowl. After drilling a hole in the fender to mount the antenna you will have to make a hole into the passenger compartment to run the wire in to the radio. Lots of opportunities to make a mistake.

Inside Transmission. Drain fluid & remove Oil Pan for access.....

Starting at the bulb, check that the bulb is fully plugged into the socket. Follow the wires outside the housing and check to see if they have been loosened/disconnected. Check the low beam headlamp fuse. Important Tip: Do not touch lamp bulbs with bare fingers. The oils from the skin will cause the bulb to heat unevenly and break. Use alcohol to clean any bulb that has been touched