Suzuki Samurai

you might be loosing a gear or a wheel baring, it could be a lot of tings

The Manual transmission 1986 (should be the same for 1988):

Curb Weight is: 2094 lb. (942 kg)

Gross Weight is: 2923 lb. (1315 kg)

So the answer to your question is 2923-2094= 829 lbs. Weight Capacity.

Oh, isn't that a happy little question! The bolt size for the bell housing on an '87 Suzuki Samurai is typically 10mm. As for the clutch plate bolts, they are usually around 8mm in size. Just remember, there are no mistakes, only happy little accidents in the world of DIY auto repair.

I installed a set of flat top pistons and the 272 cam in my 87 sammi and what it gained me is that it will rev higher in 4 th gear but it still tops out the same speed in 5th. So since I'm not interested in just spending more money to rev it up and blow it up sooner and burn more gas, I spent about 500 bucks for nothing.

Just shy of 2200 lb

87 trans will fit 88 but not to sure about 88 1/2 and later models

No you don't have to do a body lift to get 2 inches of lift. You can use shackles or springs or a combination of the both. If you use either take it down and have your camber checked and use spring shims to correct any differences. First thou I recommend you check your wheel bearings and king pin bearings so you don't intensify a problem that might be already there.

nop the block is bigger

Download the FREE Suzuki Samurai Shop Manual from http://www.suzukiinfo.com/

or visit zukikrawlers.com

zn

There is a timing check window in the clutch housing, remove the rubber plug and turn the engine clockwise to find a 'T' punched into the flywheel, that is TDC. The 'T' is over the mark that aligns with the housing. Remove the distributor cap and confirm the rotor is pointing to #1 and set the valve lash

**( the valves are numbered from the front 1,2,3,4 on the left side and 5,6,7,8 on the right)**

on valves 1,2,5 and 7 then turn the crank 1 revolution and set valves 3,4,6 and 8.

My '86 passenger seat was very similar sounding to yours. I just looked at it and realized the mounting bolts were loose, I tightened them and it is much better now.

I would imagine a rattling seat on a bumpy road is almost impossible to fix. Just put a good eye on it and gauge it for yourself, if it looks OK it probably is. Oh, and always wear your seat belt!

did you ever find out what caused this i am having the same problem

Do you have spark at the coil? If not it could be the coil but I would put my money on a faulty ecm. Happened to mine and the repaired ecm fixed it.

its broke

You may want to check for sticking throttle linkage/cable and also your ignition timing may be advanced

well this is most likely a carb problem, but don't rule out a loose wire. for the carb. Try setting the float bowl levels on the carb. If that doesn't work your best bet is to replace the stock carb with a Weber or sidedraft. The stock samurai carbs are junk even if you buy a new one they just don't work that good. for a wire problem check you cap and rotor and make sure there is no cracks. check the coil wire and make sure you have good contact.

23-25 then 35-37 and final is 46-52 ft lbs

Bad needle/seatvalve flooding carb.?

There are bolt all over the crank and they have different torque values.

Here are a few.

Crankshaft main bearing cap bolt - 36.5 - 41 .O in. lbs.

Crankshaft pulley bolt - 7.5 - 9.0 in. lbs.

Crankshaft timing belt pulley bolt - 47.5- 5 4 . 0 in. lbs.

I've had this happen a few times when I warning flash other drivers of road hazards ahead, the immediate cure is to knock firmly on a largish blackbox near the carbi. I believe it to be a relay that probably has a small arc when activated that can temporarily weld the contacts together, the knock breaks this contact and the lights go out. Mines an 85 model btw.

Weber makes an aftermarket filter for the weber carb,and K&N makes an aftermarket air filter for the stock carb

I know you've replaced the battery and starter and that is usually the problem when it clicks. Have you replaced the battery/starter cables? Still sounds like a bad connection. Although it is a bad connection the question is where? The circuit that is failing is the circuit that pulls in the starter solenoid. This would be the circuit that goes through the key switch from the battery and then on to the starter solenoid. The actual problem is probably a high resistance in the somewhat old key switch preventing the 'full' current from going through to the starter solenoid. Never fear though there is a 'clicky starter fix' (search words) that is available on several sites including ebay. How it functions is to provide a high current relay that is activated by the key switch circuit and transfers power directly from the battery to the starter solenoid to provide full current thereby fixing the problem since the relay does not need 'full' current to activate. This actually works pretty well and if you understand the wiring of the key switch circuit and wiring of relays, you can do this yourself for a minimal cost (for the relay)

The following are the ratios for an 86. I believe they changed with the 88.5 model. Gear ratios 1st 3.652 2nd 1.947 3rd 1.423 4th 1.000 5th 0.795 Reverse 3.466 Hope this helps.