Toyota Solara

Time required for that job depends on tools available (air vs manual) and experience. Someone who's done it before might take a couple of hours start to finish. Those that haven't could spend an entire day on it.

I'd suggest you download a factory service manual from Toyota or pick up a Clymer's manual (auto supply or online). Both will provide detailed procedures and valuable pictures.

Cheers

You most likely replaced the wrong o2 sensor. The Hanes manual incorrectly state that the bank one sensor one O2 sensor is in the front. It is actually facing the firewall towards the bottom. Cylinder one faces the same direction; hence the nomenclature.

Your car will not start.

Begin by removing the speaker covers in your 2006 Toyota. Remove the speaker retaining screws. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the speaker.

New cars from the factory are typically taken from the car plant to a rail road by a car hauling truck specifically for vehicles, the rail then ships it to another rail head then the car hauling trucks move them to the dealers. For personally owned vehicle or vehicle already at a dealership you would hire a company to move it for you.

The fuse that controls the clock also controls the cigarette lighter. It's fuse 15 and is labeled "CIG" on the diagram. The fuse box is located on the left under the steering wheel, behind the little thingy, for lack of a better term, that pops in and out, the diagram is on the back of the box, you'll see it once you pop the little thing out of place.

That information is in your owner's manual and (should be) printed on the engine's oil cap. I think you'll find both recommend an energy conserving 5W-30 viscosity oil for most operating conditions.

Cheers

That info is in your owner's manual

The dashboard light dimmer is the same stem used to toggle between and zero the trip meters (and, incidentally, reset the "Maint" light after an oil change). Just turn the stem left (lower) or right (higher) to adjust the lighting to your preference.

Cheers

Ok, I'm pretty sure you're just messing with me but, in case not....check page 263 of your owners manual.

You'll discover the jack is in the trunk, under the carpet and tucked beneath a panel on the right side. You can remove the jack without removing the spare tire cover.

Since you've never removed it before, pay attention to the orientation of the jack and the way it's stored. You'll be turning the screw mechanism to the left to loosen the jack from storage and re-installing in reverse procedure.

While you're in there poking around, and since the carpet is out anyway, this would be a good time to check the pressure of the spare tire.

Cheers

The air bag light comes on if there's a problem detected someplace in the system. It doesn't necessarily mean you've hit or been hit by something hard enough to deploy the bags. Find an auto supply store that will loan you an OBDII code reader (or buy one, they're inexpensive on eBay). Plug the reader into the OBDII port under the dash to the right of the steering column. The reader will tell you where the car's ECU 'thinks' the problem is. Once the issue is corrected you can use the code reader to turn off the light. Cheers

Valve cover gasket, its not gas its a burnt oil smell correct? Common problem.

Your owners manual contains that information. The radio fuse is in the cabin fusebox under the left side of the dash. Inside the fusebox lid is a diagram that labels each fuse. Cheers

Factory recommended pressure is printed in two places. In your owners manual and on a sticker attached to the drivers side doorsill.

Some drivers choose to increase those pressures slightly to change handling characteristics or reduce rolling resistance (increase fuel mileage) but don't go overboard. Never run a pressure higher than what's on the sidewall of the tire (maximum cold pressure). Which reminds me, always air up tires when they're cold. Essentially don't drive more than five miles at speeds above 35 mph. Tires heat up while rolling which expands air inside and throws readings off.

Cheers

15.9gal

With a few exceptions the only way to reset the "check engine" light is through an OBD II code reader. The light is on because there's an issue with the engine or some part of the emissions system (could be as simple as a loose gas cap).

To reset, borrow a code reader from an auto supply store that offers them (free). Plug it into the port under the dash to the right of the steering column. Follow the instructions on the reader (usually in the lid). You'll be given a number code by some readers, text showing the problem in others. Once you've identified the problem you can press the button that says something like 'turn off trouble light'. Be aware if you haven't repaired the problem the light is just going to come on again.

The exceptions include the afore mentioned loose gas cap lid and other emissions issues and some engine miss issues (faulty spark plugs or wiring) that, when repaired, will eventually allow the light to go out. It usually takes several on/off cycles of the ignition key before the computer figures out there issue is gone.

Bottom line, grab a code reader, identify the issue, fix it, turn off the light.

Cheers

Gonna need to be a little more specific, but I can tell you it does take 5w30 oil.

The previously posted answer to this question was for the Gen I Solara. The '05 is Gen II so to clarify. The factory amplifier is behind the glove box. Open the box, remove the screw holding the 'air assist' lever (on right) push in sides of glovebox and swivel down. The amp will be visible near the air conditioning ducting. It's a box with a couple of electrical plugs going to it.

Smart aleky answer: Yes. You manually plug in the OBD II code reader into the port under the dash and manually read the problem displayed on the screen. If, by "manually" you mean the pre OBD II days where you jumpered a connection and watched a light flash on the dash the answer is, unfortunately, no. Systems have become far too sophisticated and you'd be counting Morse code type long and short flashes for hours trying to figure out what the computer is trying to tell you. The good news is, OBD II readers are loaned free by many auto supply stores. In many cases you can grab the reader, plug it in in the store parking lot, read the code and walk right back in to purchase the appropriate part (which is why they loan you the gizmo for free). Cheers

About $450-600 only for struts maybe even more plus labor and tax.

Changing a tire on a 2001 Toyota Solara is very easy to do. You will first need to jack the car up, then take a tire iron and take the lug nuts off the tire. After you have removed all of the lug nuts, you will then put the new tire on and put the lug nuts on and tighten them.

The 2001 Solara is fuel injected. There is no carburetor. Cheers

As with most mechanical items the kind of care you give it has a huge effect on longevity. In the case of any car, you could completely trash it within weeks of leaving the dealer's lot or it could be running half a million miles later. The Solara should easily last 250 thousand miles and many years if the owner follows the maintenance schedule.

My '04 Solara is coming up on 90 thousand miles and has been flawless. The cam timing belt, water pump and accessory drive belt will be replaced soon and it should be good to go for another 90 thousand.

Cheers

it is a 5 speed automatic transmission that allows the driver to shift manually. Of course it can just be left in auto mode too.

In the future you might want to specify whether you have a 4 or 6 cylinder engine in your Solara. Assuming it's the 6 an oil change is relatively straightforward but can be messy. I'd suggest you have a spray can of brake cleaner or a product made for oil cleanup handy. 1. Run your engine a minute to get all particulates in suspension with the oil 2. Raise the front of your car a few inches with a garage jack (use the lifting points shown in your owners manual) to make it easier to get under the car. 3. Remove the drain plug on the oil pan and allow the oil to drain into a suitable container for recycling at an auto supply store later. 4. When the oil has stopped dripping replace the drain plug and move your catch container forward and put some rags around the bottom of the belly pan. 5. This is the messy part. The oil filter is on the front of the engine under the exhaust manifold (it should be cool by now). Reach under the manifold, find the filter and try twisting it off with your hands (turn counter clockwise). If the previous oil change was done properly you should be able to. If not you'll need an oil filter wrench. Be careful using a wrench that you don't hit your radiator, the finds are fragile. As you spin the filter off a substantial amount of oil is going to spill from the filter, run down the front of the engine, puddle in the plastic belly pan and dribble out the vents. Work quickly to spin the filter off and get it upright to at least minimize the spillage. Put the old filter aside for recycling with the oil. 6. Lubricate the 'O' ring on the new filter and spin it on. Turn 1/4 turn and no more after the 'O' ring contacts the seating surface. Next time you won't need a wrench to get it off. 7. Fill with 5 quarts of the oil specified in your owners manual (I think it's 5W-20). 8. Replace the oil cap and dipstick, start the engine and watch for leaks. After about 30 seconds you can turn it off. 9. Now, using your oil spil and engine cleaner go to work on the mess made by removing the oil filter. A combination of the chemicals and a garden hose will fix you up. 10. Go drive until the 'maintenance' light comes on again. BTW when the light 'does' come on you can reset it by turning your key on, make sure your odometer is showing total car mileage (not a trip mileage) turn the key back off then press the odometer reset button and turn the key on again. Hold the button until the numbers vanish and are replaced by -------- . Once that's done the light won't come on again for 4500 miles to remind you it's 'make a mess' time again. Cheers,

Gadget

Host, Gadget's Solara page

www.gadgetjq.com/solara

Without specifying your Solara year and engine type you're going to have to settle for a generic answer. The best way to "charge" your air conditioning system is to drive the car to a shop and whip out the old Amex, Master or Visa card. If your system isn't working it generally means there's something wrong. A seal is allowing refrigerant to leak, something is wrong with the pump, a fuse has blown or maybe some kind of creature just built a nest in a duct. There are do-it-yourself kits available. They all use small cans of R134a and most are available at auto supply stores. Some include a pressure gauge so you know exactly how much coolant to add. The simplest just use a hose to connect the can to the low pressure side (larger of the two metal tubes from the compressor) of the system and you empty the can. That will either work or kill the system with too much pressure (ruin seals). Cheers