Toyota Solara

The timing chain (4 cylinder) should never need replacement. It's good until the entire engine needs an overhaul.

If you really mean a timing "belt" (6 cylinder) the charge varies widely. You'd probably pay more having a Toyota dealer do the work than a trusted neighborhood mechanic. The price would probably be higher in a major metro area (where mechanics are paid a bit more) than in a more rural area. Shop around but expect to be quoted something north of 500 dollars and under a thousand.

That would include changing the idler pulley, water pump and drive belts since they're all going to have 90,000 + miles on them.

Cheers

Cheers

Check page 199 of your owner's manual. You'll see the location and pictures that will help you access the filter.

To answer your question, it's directly behind the glove compartment door. Just remove the anti-slam brake from the right side (a single screw) then pivot the door downward until you can (gently) pull it away from the dashboard assembly. It will help if you empty the compartment first. Oh! There's the owner's manual! ;)

Look carefully and you'll see the drawer. Pull it toward the rear of the car. Note the airflow direction of the filter (bottom to top). Pop out the old filter, slip in a new one and re-assemble.

If, for some reason you don't have an owner's manual, get one. You're missing a lot of information about options built into the car for your convience. They range from programming the windows (and moon roof if you have one) to toggling the alarm system from active to passive and even whether or not the doors lock when you put the transmission in gear.

Cheers

First, keep in mind the Iridium plugs in the '04 Solara V-6 don't need to be adjusted, looked at or even spoken to for at least 100,000 miles. If you're not there yet then just keep driving. If you've reached that point then you need to uncover the little buggers. Remove the plastic sound shield from the top of the engine. The front plugs are (sort of) easy to find, they're hiding under each of the three coils you can see on the front bank in line with the oil cap. Remove the coil by removing the single hold down bolt and remove the connector. The spark plug is right under the coil. The rear plugs are a bit more of a challenge. They too are under the coils (same as the front) but getting to the center plug requires a strong will, extreme patience or another wrench to remove the intake runner. Once removed access to the center plug is simple. It's your choice but the service manual says remove the runner. Here's one more option. The timing belt is scheduled for replacement at 90,000 miles. Since you (or a mechanic) will be removing parts and spending lots of quality time under the hood anyway, change the plugs (and water pump) then and don't worry about any of it for another 90k. Cheers

for a 2001 SE 2.2L 4cyl it has been about 28-29 mpg in all around in real world driving. on the interstate I see 30-32

With my '04 V-6 convertible I consistently see 27-28 mpg during my 80 mile (round trip) daily commute between home and work. That's a roughly half and half combination of highway and city. Around town only I see less than 20 mpg.

In automatic transmission equipped vehicles, the transmission fluid is added through the dipstick tube.

The only reason to add fluid is during a complete fluid change. If your fluid level appears to be low first make sure you're reading the level correctly. The transmission/engine should be fully up to operating temperature (drive at least 15 minutes) and the engine must be running when you check the level. If those two requirements aren't met, you'll get a false reading.

Cheers

You have to disconnected the hose connecting the valve and the injector. After you need to pull out the PCV valve. You might have to help yourself with a screwdriver. If you are planning to keep the pcv valve grommet you have to be careful. If you are going to replace the grommet just be careful, prevent any staff falling down in the engine. Decrease the grommet.

You might want to connect the valve to the hose before installation. Put the new valve in the grommet. If it's loose you need to replace the grommet or use high temperature silicon to fix the problem.

If you had the check engine light on it's recommended to reset the computer.

The same OBD II reader that gave you the Oxygen Sensor code can be used to clear that code. Repair the sensor first (or the light will just come back on) then plug in the reader and press the "clear code" button. You'll be good to go.

If you don't have a reader and someone else found the fault code for you, just roll by any auto supply store that offers free use of a reader (most major outlets). Plug it in and clear the code.

Cheers

look at where the headers come off the engine. follow this and there should be a rod like projection sticking out with wires running down from it. that is your O2 sensor.

In the fuel pump assembly located in the fuel tank. Not a required maintenance item. Member of Toyota Nation forum said recently that filter is sold separately. About $50.00

Technically no. You could use a box end wrench on the two bolts securing the air filter box lid but it would be painfully slow. If you'll be doing some of your own work on the car you should pick up a basic metric socket set. Get some decent sockets (Sears Craftsman, Lowes Kobalt etc) rather than something at the swap meet.

My dad had a saying: "I'm too poor to buy cheap tools" meaning you'll just end up replacing an inexpensive tool but buying good quality means you'll have the tool for a lifetime.

Cheers

I'm not going to say you can't but mixing green, red and orange anti-freeze is rarely a good idea. They tend not to play well with each other. Since it's something you only do every couple of years it's really best to stick with the Toyota stuff, even though it costs a couple of bucks more per gallon. When you mix the coolant with water be sure you use de-ionized (best) or distilled water so you aren't introducing a bunch of minerals into the cooling system. Sad to say some people just shove a hose in the radiator and let er' rip. They end up paying the price down the road (no pun intended) with a less efficient system. Cheers

Which one? ;)

The fuse box under the dash (left side next to the kick panel) simply pulls off. The one under the hood has a latch on the front. Pull out the tab to release the latch and lift the cover.

Cheers

Since I am not familiar with your 99 Solara, this answer will be generic, but probably applies to your vehicle. Most vehicles for the last 30 or so years have multiple function windshield wiper systems. Most modern wiper systems include a high speed setting [cycle rate], a medium speed setting, a low speed setting, AND an INTERMITTANT [or variable delayed] setting, which is slower than even the low speed, and in addition, the interval of delay between wipes is variable and usually is adjusted by the vehicle operator with a slide switch, or a rotary switch on the end of the wiper control lever. If you inadvertantly bump or hit the control lever or switch, the intermittant function cycle can be initiated, causing to wiper to operate, seemingly as if by magic. Or, if the control is set to the intermittant position. Find your owner/operator manual to learn how to use or disable the intermittant function of your wipers. If you do not have a manual, go to a dealership new or used car salesman and ask for instructions: they are generally very happy to share their knowledge with you, especially since all satisfied owners of their vehicles are a potential buyer later on. If this method is unsuccessful, then try one of the parts people, and then one of the service department service writers. If that should fail, then when you are at Wal-Mart, or any similar large parking lot, keep an alert watch for a vehicle like yours, and wait for the owner, and then explain your problem and ask them to explain [even demonstrate/teach] operation of their wiper system. If that fails, then to my knowledge, your last resort is to go to the Parts Department of the dealership for your vehicle. and ORDER [you gotta buy and pay for] a replacement Owner/Operator manual, making sure that it is for your specific make, model, and year.j3h.

The 2001 Toyota Solara wiper blade sizes are 22" drivers and 21" passenger side wiper blades. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only. Be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

not to give a vague answer here, but really its like bleeding any other set of brakes.

And the question is? ;)

If you're asking if the rotors can be changed the answer is yes.

If you're asking how to change the rotors the answer is almost as simple.

1. Jack the car up and place a jackstand underneath for safety

2. Remove road wheel(s)

3. Remove brake calipers (2 bolts each)

4. Suspend calipers by wire/rope/string, whatever you have so they aren't hanging by the hose.

5. Pull rotors off studs. They should just slide off easily. If the rears don't, be sure the parking brake is off (the brake shoe is integral to the rotor).

6. Reassemble in reverse order. If brake pads appear worn, you may as well replace them while you're in there.

Cheers

There are three places to find the correct size tire for your Solara.

1. The owner's manual

2. The Sticker on the driver's side doorsill.

3. On the sidewall of the tires mounted on the car.

Tire rack.com shows two factory tire sizes 205-65-15 and 205-60-16. The latter is the most likely for the six Cylinder.

It's directly behind the glove compartment. Remove the glovebox door and you'll see the amp on the right. Cheers

You don't. See page 129 of your owner's manual.

The CD player in the nav system is a single disk unit. The non nav JBL radio is a six-disk player.

Cheers

This is one of those jobs best done with a factory service manual or Chilton's manual at your side. They'll offer in depth step-by-step procedures along with pictures.

Here's the nuts and bolts version from Chiltons.

1. Remove bulbs from housing

2. Remove front bumper cover (it's a whole separate procedure but necessary to reach one of the bolts attaching the headlight housing)

3. Remove retaining bolts

4. Lift housing away from fender

You can find the Chilton's manual for Solara at some auto supply stores or at Amazon. The Toyota factory service manual is available for download from the Toyota website. You sign up for downloads and pay about ten dollars for 24 hours of access. In that time you can download literally every service manual for every Toyota on the road along with every service bulletin ever issued for them. It's a bargain.

Cheers

3.

To remove the interior door handle of a Toyota Solara, first, locate and remove any screws or clips securing the handle, which may be hidden under a plastic cover or trim piece. Use a flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool to gently pry off the cover if necessary. Once the screws or clips are removed, carefully pull the handle away from the door panel, disconnect any attached cables or wires, and then fully remove the handle. Make sure to keep track of all screws and components for reassembly.