VW Beetle Type 1

around 2700 dollars

I bought a 1968 Beetle in fall 1967 and remember pretty distinctly that the sticker price was $1,800.

It depends on which distributor and transmission you have. The stock distributor has one vacuum line going to it. An autostick transmission has one line. If you have a manual transmission and a Bosch 009 distributor like most people do, you have no vacuum lines.

No, it has an automatic choke.

You need to overhaul the engine. Your first mission is troubleshooting: did the engine seize because the pistons seized, or because the main bearings seized? To do so, pull the heads and try to remove the cylinders. If they won't come off, piston seize. If they will and when you have them off the engine won't turn over...bearing seize.

Where could I find a wiring diagram for a 1976 VW super beetle?

Either in the Bently repair manual (the orange one):

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Bently&Search1=Search

If you are keeping the car it is well worth the money.

Or one of the VW Bug forums like:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/

And search for "1976 Super wiring diagram".

i have the code for the radio reset but i dont know how can you tell me

Check with Sterling Storts Cars LLC, google it. I believe their slides are same as original VW. Cost about $50 plus shipping.

The 2013 Volkswagen Beetle-Convertible has 31.4 in. of rear leg room.

on the tranny The starter is located on the passenger side of the engine. You can see it by looking behind the rear passenger tire.

Had the same thing happen on a '73 SB. It turned out (after much cussing) to be the ignition switch. Try replacing the switch with an OEM and "see" what happens!

The 2012 Volkswagen Tiguan's turning circle is 39.0 ft..

It takes the same "DOT 3" type brake fluid most cars take.

5X100 14mm

1600 cc

You have to decide whether you want an oil temperature or a cylinder head temperature gauge. The procedure's basically the same--run a wire between the engine compartment and the dashboard, install the gauge and the sensor, connect both to the wire, then hook up a ground and a 12v line. Oil temp sensors either replace the dipstick or go around the drainplug--I think the dipstick sensor is better because it can't be torn off if you hit a serious pothole. Cylinder head temp sensors go around your number-three plug.

try checking the gasket around the intake that should fix it

I'm not sure if a "88 Vandura is the same as a 91 Chevy G20 but here goes anyway... Once you've removed the side sliding door interior handle and cover plate you will notice a square "rod" sticking through the middle of the door hardware. This "rod" is where the interior door handle was attached. It goes through a round piece that holds the door hardware together. The square "rod" is an extension of the exterior door handle. No matter how hard you try,you can not pull the exterior door handle off of its shaft. The only way to remove the handle is cut it off but you don't want to do that. It is possible to remove the exterior door handle and shaft from the hardware but it ain't easy....... Here's what you do..... The exterior door handle and hardware were assembled at the Chevy plant and not meant to come apart or break for that matter. That is why it is so difficult to remove the exterior handle and shaft....it was "pressed in" at the factory.... What you do is get a small "bearing puller" that will fit around the shaft and against the handle. Also get 2 6" pieces of redi rod that screw into the bearing puller. Get 2 nuts for each redi rod. You'll also need something to protect your door when you screw down on it with the redi rod. I used 2 pieces of 1/8" sheet metal about 8" long and 4" wide. Maybe something thin like cardboard or sheet rubber should be used between the sheet metal and door to protect the paint. Once you've got it set up just turn the bolts on the redi rod and it will slowly come out. You may want to give the rod a tap with a hammer once in a while..... When you get the unit out, you can file all sides down so it will go back in easier. You don't have to file much. Keep the corners square. Don't give up, you can do it.....

A value can't really be put on a car until you know more about it. The value could range from 100 bucks to 10,000 dollars! It depends on the interior, engine, transmission, brakes, rust, body, title, etc. You'd HAVE to have more information to get a reliable answer.

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Thanks for the most useless answer in all creation.

You told us a bunch of words that sounded good, revealed nothing at all about the real answer, seemed to provide advice while being most unhelpful, and wasted everyone's time.

In other words, you told me what I already know, while trying to make yourself appear smart, but actually made yourself appear dumb.

I guess I'll go check antique car bluebook. Thanks for wasting my time!

Pricing

Original

MSRPLow

RetailAverage

RetailHigh

Retail$2,299$2,250$4,875$8,250

It is located behind the airbox on the left side of the engine compartment. It is setting back behind the brake master cylinder on the firewall.

This information is found in your owner's manual and where the jack is stored.

I don't have the original jack or owners manual.

Buy the Haynes manual for the car. It has a wiring schematic that can guide you. If a complete re-wire is required by a pre-made wire harness, many VW restorers caryy them , try www.cip1.com they may carry it. Then follow the harness directions.

Figure of H top left is reverse

Bottom left is 1st

Top right is 2nd

Bottom left is 3rd

go into any search engine. type "electric diagram" for the car. click on the images tab and you will have to do some fishing. unfortunately, you have to have some knowledge of electrical schematics. i hope this helps.