VW Super Beetle

check timing. carb might need adjusted.

Yes. They didn't make curved ones until about 1974.

The fuel gauge is a very simple affair. The gauge itself, a 3 terminal voltage regulator and the in tank level sensor. Check fuses first, check for a good ground to the fuel gauge sensor on the tank. Pull the wire on the tank sensor, ground the wire, with key on gauge should deflect. No gauge movement means bad gauge or regulator. Reconnect wire. Check for 12V at the input of the voltage regulator, check for around 5V at the gauge side of the VR. If no suspect bad VR. If yes suspect bad gauge. If gauge does deflect when grounding tank sensor wire the intank sensor is bad and must be replaced.

I have a 73 Super Beetle restored with a 1600 engine. Two questions. What is the best grade of Gasoline to use? Can you use Mobile One Oil? Thanks.

Perry

Your camber is off.

I'm not 100% sure about to fix that on a super beetle but I'm pretty sure your camber off.

either that or you have the wrong size wheels on there.

standard VW wheels should be 165R15

I had been trying to find the same answer for a while. Finally I thought about tar remover, but did not have any. I used engine degreaser, let the parts soak for a few mins and then rubbed the loosened sticky gunk off the piece's. As for as the large interior piece's, I guess you would have to take them out of the car clean them and then immediately wash with soap and water to be sure you did not get the degreaser smell into the car. Hope this helps.

Open the engine cover. You will see the fan belt. The thing bolted to the top pulley is the alternator, and it's sitting on the alternator stand. There's a spout coming up from the left side of the alternator stand, and it's got a screw-in cap normally with a hose coming out of it that runs up to the air filter. That spout is where the oil goes.

You'd need an alcohol-rated carb, alcohol-rated fuel lines, an alcohol fuel filter, and a LOT of patience because while E85 sells for less money per gallon, you're going to burn more of it to get the same power. So you have to mess with the carb settings to get the engine to run right. I don't think you'll like it.

If you have a manual transmission and a centrifugal advance distributor, you don't have any. If you have vacuum advance on your distributor, there's one vacuum hose running from the side of the carb to the distributor. If you have an automatic transmission, you've got a hose from the intake manifold to the control valve.

mine is in trunk on top of wheel well

If it is like the 72 beetle, Have someone hold the the carb throttle open to give you some slack in the cable, then hook it in from the passenger side. If you hook in from the driver side it will come up done trust me

I remember the push rod tubes being a source of an oil leak.

Open the hood, at the far back of the front trunk is a black plastic panel held in place by two knurled thumbscrews at the bottom. Remove these thumbscrews and pull the panel out, angling it out at the bottom first.

This exposes the back of the dashboard and all the dash wiring.

The common issue is a vacuum leak. Check you vacuum lines and the rubber connectors that are on the intake runners.

Yes, of course they should, they are amazing, everybody should bow down to their mighty.

I said bow down!

Now!

Removing the roof panel requires that you locate and back-out two screws from the rear of the panel, and the two at the front..., there was a tool supplied in the center console for this purpose.

check jbugs.com

A 2004 Volkswagen bug's gas tank can hold approximately 14 to 14 and a half gallons of gas. This is typical of cars not only manufactured in 2004 but many cars today still have this tank capacity.

One that doesn't run, and whose Number 1 Main bearing journal isn't trashed.

Or, more specifically, one that doesn't run, has a good Number 1 Main bearing journal, and also has dual pressure relief valves in the case.

thesamba.com has everything

decode vin 1973 Volkswagen beetle

Yes. The parts don't care where there made. The specifications are the same from anyone. The only difference is the -quality- of the parts. Just make sure they are the right ones for the year car and double check the month the car was made also because some times they would make a mid year change in some of the parts.

The car will stop when you pull the brake handle, but it won't stay up? Easy fix: there is a metal thing in there down by the handle's pivot point that looks like part of a gear, and a plastic thing that meshes with it to hold the handle where you want it. (Lovely technical terms, eh?) The plastic thing, and sometimes the part-gear, has worn out. Things happen in 38 years. The fix is to buy an E-brake handle rebuild kit and install it in the brake handle.

well in my 72 super, the brake light comes on and stays on everytime i start it and i havent had any problems. I'm not sure what exactly the problem is or if there is one at all. does the car run with it on? if it does then i wouldn't worry about it.

that means it is (or was originally!) a 1200cc engine produced from august 1965. the D denotes that, the rest of the number is your serial number.