VW Super Beetle

Yes. The parts don't care where there made. The specifications are the same from anyone. The only difference is the -quality- of the parts. Just make sure they are the right ones for the year car and double check the month the car was made also because some times they would make a mid year change in some of the parts.

The car will stop when you pull the brake handle, but it won't stay up? Easy fix: there is a metal thing in there down by the handle's pivot point that looks like part of a gear, and a plastic thing that meshes with it to hold the handle where you want it. (Lovely technical terms, eh?) The plastic thing, and sometimes the part-gear, has worn out. Things happen in 38 years. The fix is to buy an E-brake handle rebuild kit and install it in the brake handle.

well in my 72 super, the brake light comes on and stays on everytime i start it and i havent had any problems. I'm not sure what exactly the problem is or if there is one at all. does the car run with it on? if it does then i wouldn't worry about it.

inside it- remove the air filter from above, and there will be five screws (flat head type) on the top of the carb. undo those, and lift the top of the carb off. the float chamber is the bit furthest away from you, and the float is the (usually) brown plastic, hopefully air filled, box.

that means it is (or was originally!) a 1200cc engine produced from august 1965. the D denotes that, the rest of the number is your serial number.

Hi Bob, first of all buy the Bently manual for your year of bug. It is extremely helpful and pretty in depth on fixing things. I just did my wifes '72 and my '75. There is an inner panel you have to un-clip from the sun roof panel on the inside and slide it back and then you can see the tracks on either side of the Sun Roof. The handle by the rear view mirror rotates a gear that moves two externally splined cables back and forth. The Cables are connected to the Sun Roof panel by two semi-fragile pot metal like alum connectors. Either the small gear at the handle has stripped the cable (you should be able to hear a clicking noise), or the connectors are broken. If you can help move the panel back by hand as you turn the handle, then use the handle to finish opening it, then it's probably the stripped cable. If you can see the cables move when turning the handle and the panel doesn't move, then its the cable connectors. You should be able to see the cables on either side move. You will have to by new cables one way or the other. Not cheap. But it's sure nice to have it working in the summer. = Answer == Hi My name is Bob. I live in SE Massachuesetts. I just got a '73 Super Beetle with a sunroof. I've been trying to find out how to take a sunroof out that does not crank at all. I've soaked the area around the sunroof with magic mystory oil and WD-40 for a few days now. I may have a source on how to install a sunroof.... My Email is ka1dza@adelphia.net Bob

33 Mpg

It depends on so many factors. How will you drive it, mostly hills, city driving only, mostly hi-way driving, rush hour? If the valves are adjusted, and tuned up right it should get between 25 to 35 mpg.

The engine is a 1600 cc manufactured between late 1970 and early 1973.

Check the bulbs

Check the relay

Check the switch

There's a kit available with all the parts you need.

They began production in 1970, and the first SuperBeetle was released in 1971.

1972 Super Beetles had 4 drum Brakes. I know, since I own one. Richard

Be patient and take your time its a two or more person jobe so you will need someone else i have the exact same car im sure (75 superbeetle w/ sunroof) the best thing to do is strip the interior (remove the front and rear windows and rear side windows(manditory) and the seats and sunroof that way its easier to wrap the fabric around the frame) iv gotton most of mine done and its not easy what i did was started at the sunroof because it doesnt move obviously and worked my way back after carful maping out every piece to find out were it goes but good luck and remeber two people and very tim consuming of course you could take it to a hot rod shop and they could do it for 3-400 dollars but its not as hard as it seems

=Chicago Illinois=

check the grid in the back glass to make sure there are no nicks in it

You will need four quarts of oil, a drain pan, a wash tub and some mineral spirits, and an oil change gasket set. You will also need a 10mm socket, a socket big enough to fit the drain bolt (21mm sounds right but don't quote me) and a torque wrench. Something like a razor blade to scrape off the old gasket would be good too.

First stick the drain pan under the engine and take out the drain plug. You don't need to jack up the car but set the parking brake and block the wheels so you don't get run over. When it quits dripping, remove the drain pan. Unscrew the six acorn nuts and remove the strainer cover, then the strainer. Wash all the parts you took off in mineral spirits--NEVER USE GAS! Dry well. The easiest way to dry the strainer is to swish it around in the air some.

Put the car back together by putting things on the strainer studs (there are six of them) in this order:

gasket

strainer

gasket

strainer cover

copper washers (use the new ones out of the gasket set)

acorn nuts

Torque the acorn nuts to 9 lb-ft--and be sure they've got the same torque, or it'll leak oil. Reinstall the drain bolt with the new washer and torque to 25 lb-ft.

Put 2-1/2 quarts of oil in it. It holds 2500ml of oil, which is a little more than 2-1/2 quarts, but if you put more than 2500ml of oil in the car you'll blow the main seal (which is why all aircooled VWs in the US leak from their main seals) and that is no fun at all to change. A little too little oil is way better than a little too much.

Finally, unplug the center wire on the distributor and crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. Plug it back in and start your car.

91922 - 138554 1949

138555 - 220471 1950

220472 - 313829 1951

313830 - 428156 1952

428157 - 575414 1953

575415 - 722934 1954

722935 - 929745 1955

929746 -1246618 1956

1246619 - 1600439 1957

1600440 - 2007615 1958

2007616 - 2528667 1959

2528668 - 3192506 1960

3192507 - 4010994 1961

4010995 - 4846835 1962

4846835 - 5677118 1963

5677119 - 6502399 1964

115000001 -115979202 1965

116000001 - 1161021298 1966

117000001 -117844892 1967

118000001 - 1181016098 1968

119000001 - 1191093704 1969

1102000001 - 1103096945 1970

1112000001 - 1113143118 1971

1122000001 - 1122961362 1972

Open the door and look on the edge with the latch, there should be one large screw that holds the door handle to the door. Take the handle off and you should have access to the locks now.

They specified a 90 weight hypoid gear oil for the manual transmissions back when they were made. It is more commonly found, and works just fine to get a 80W-90 weight gear oil or something similar. I have had great success using a gear lube additive called 'Slick 50 for manual transmissions' in these gear boxes for easier shifting.

trailer

bolt pattern is a broad term, so I'll assume you're talking about wheels, in that case 4x130mm

1973 super beetle comes with 1600 cc motor.

Check bulbs Check relay Check dimmer switch If it has daytime running lights (DLR) then try removing the DLR module. I had one where high beams worked when pulling back, but high beams would not work when pushing forward. The regular headlights would not turn on at all. The interior lights and instrument lights all worked fine. The fix was to replace the multifunction switch (turn signal lever).

Loosen the screw on the barrel nut on the left side of the carbeurator and pull the cable loose from the assembly. Be sure you don't lose the barrel nut assembly. Now, get a light and stick your head down by the accelerator pedal. Pull the pedal forward and you will see a roller on top of the pedal lever. Along the hump adjacent to the pedal Umaybe inder a little carpet) you will see a tube with the cable coming out of it. Trace it to the side of the pedal lever. Take note of how it goes it. it is a dog-leg fiting that slips into the pedal lever and is held by pressure. Work it out of the hole.

Now get your shiny new cable (you got the right one, yes?) and slip the straight end into the little tube and begin pushing it back toward the engine. I use teflon marine grease sparingly to lubricate and protect the cable. It will exit IN FRONT OF the fire wall. I like to have an assistant watch for it with a light at the back of the car. Now the tricky part. You have to feed the shiny new accelerator cable into the guide tube that goes from the rear (toward the back of the car) and around the fan housing. If you ever see your engine on a stand you will see how this tube works and you will wonder why you made this part so hard. Be patient and have a lot of light so you can see what you are doing. One strategy is to use a thin wire and feed it from the rear, through the tube, and use it as a fish wire for the new cable.

Having fed the cable all the way to the accelerator insert the metal stud at the end of the wire into the barrel nut and adjust the free play. Work the pedal several times to make sure it moves smoothly. This is very important since any catching will result in unpleasant collisions. Start it up and motor away confidently.