VW Super Beetle

Open the door and look on the edge with the latch, there should be one large screw that holds the door handle to the door. Take the handle off and you should have access to the locks now.

They specified a 90 weight hypoid gear oil for the manual transmissions back when they were made. It is more commonly found, and works just fine to get a 80W-90 weight gear oil or something similar. I have had great success using a gear lube additive called 'Slick 50 for manual transmissions' in these gear boxes for easier shifting.

trailer

bolt pattern is a broad term, so I'll assume you're talking about wheels, in that case 4x130mm

1973 super beetle comes with 1600 cc motor.

Check bulbs Check relay Check dimmer switch If it has daytime running lights (DLR) then try removing the DLR module. I had one where high beams worked when pulling back, but high beams would not work when pushing forward. The regular headlights would not turn on at all. The interior lights and instrument lights all worked fine. The fix was to replace the multifunction switch (turn signal lever).

Loosen the screw on the barrel nut on the left side of the carbeurator and pull the cable loose from the assembly. Be sure you don't lose the barrel nut assembly. Now, get a light and stick your head down by the accelerator pedal. Pull the pedal forward and you will see a roller on top of the pedal lever. Along the hump adjacent to the pedal Umaybe inder a little carpet) you will see a tube with the cable coming out of it. Trace it to the side of the pedal lever. Take note of how it goes it. it is a dog-leg fiting that slips into the pedal lever and is held by pressure. Work it out of the hole.

Now get your shiny new cable (you got the right one, yes?) and slip the straight end into the little tube and begin pushing it back toward the engine. I use teflon marine grease sparingly to lubricate and protect the cable. It will exit IN FRONT OF the fire wall. I like to have an assistant watch for it with a light at the back of the car. Now the tricky part. You have to feed the shiny new accelerator cable into the guide tube that goes from the rear (toward the back of the car) and around the fan housing. If you ever see your engine on a stand you will see how this tube works and you will wonder why you made this part so hard. Be patient and have a lot of light so you can see what you are doing. One strategy is to use a thin wire and feed it from the rear, through the tube, and use it as a fish wire for the new cable.

Having fed the cable all the way to the accelerator insert the metal stud at the end of the wire into the barrel nut and adjust the free play. Work the pedal several times to make sure it moves smoothly. This is very important since any catching will result in unpleasant collisions. Start it up and motor away confidently.

I have a stock 71 SB with a 1600cc engine and my highway milage is about 29MPG. Pretty good for a 37 year old car, considering most modern vehicles are just approaching that.

On earlier models with the T handle, turn the handle to the left until it stops. Lift hood... On later models with the push button... push the button. Lift hood. Unless you are talking about the hood on the front, which is actually the trunk. On earlier models, there is a release under the dash you pull. On later models, the release is in the glove box.

IF you are in fact talking about the "boot" on an older VW -- which is the trunk in the front -- there is a fun bit of trouble that lots of VW owners know about. Here it is: even though you're supposed to be able to lift the release in the glove box and then go 'round and push the boot button, that's not often the way it works in real life. In real life, you'll spend around 20 minutes running around your car trying to get this to work; it's much easier to have someone you trust lift the glove box release, then you push the boot button and lift the lid. It takes two, but it works.

YOU NEED A FEELER GAUGE ABOUT THE THICKNESS OF ACRACKER BOX OR JUST CUTE OUT A PEACE OF IT AND PUT IT IN BETWEEN THE POINT AND DISTRIBUTER SHAFT ROTATE UNTIL THEGAUGE IS ON ALOBE OF THE SHAFT THEN TIGHTEN IT UP THAT SHOULD FIX U UP
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Start with adjusting the points to 016" with a feeler gauge. Next, hook up a dwell meter and readjust the points to 50 degrees of dwell.

NO. ITS AIR COOLED, WHICH MEANS IT HAS NO LIQUID COOLANT (ANTIFREEZE) TO RUN THROUGH A RADIATOR.

Well...kinda.

There are two places a VW engine transfers heat from the engine to the atmosphere. First, there are a lot of cooling fins. The cylinders have them, and the ridges that run front-to-back along the bottom of the case are cooling fins.

Second, there's an oil cooler. If you take the fan shroud off, you'll see it. Some real old VW guys say the Volkswagen engine isn't really air cooled, it's oil cooled because of this item.

All off-road racers and a lot of street people put auxiliary oil coolers on their cars. On a race car you need one, but if you put one on a street car make sure it's got a thermostat so you don't overcool the engine.

Cutting the outside hood handle in half and spinning the handle sections around will open them up.

I have owned several beetles starting in my teens. My preference is for Type 1 VW's, known as regular or standard Beetles - not the Super Beetle as mentioned before. The Super Beetle's were Volkswagen"s response to American drivers wanting the car to handle more like an American car. I find the Super Beetles to have sluggish steering and a heavier feel. Standard Beetles have front end torsion bar suspension giving it it's characteristic light, bouncy ride with quick and nimble manual steering. As for the prefered year models, I quite liked my '68 with a 1500 engine. But I have since owned 3 '74 models mainly for the more powerful 1600 engine. This was also the last model before Volkswagen switched to the problem plagued fuel injected model in '75. I owned one of those as well and it was a lemon.

Quick note on edit: this is how you wire the coil in any old car with a carburetor. Bug, Bus, carbureted Rabbit, 6-volt Bug, 1957 Chevy, John Deere tractor...all basically the same. All old cars use Charles Kettering's classic ignition system, which endured for decades because It's Cheap and It Works. Coils have three terminals: low-voltage +, low-voltage - and high-voltage. High voltage is in the middle; it goes to the distributor. Low-voltage + has two wires coming out of it, even though there are three prongs coming off this terminal. One wire goes to the ignition switch. The other goes to the automatic choke on your carburetor. The third terminal is a convenience outlet. Low-voltage - is for the condenser in your distributor. Don't hook anything else to it. ESPECIALLY don't hook it to ground!

A very long time -- since the 1960s for the ladybug-reminiscent Beetle of the twentieth century -- is the length of time that a Beetle Bug lives. The Volkswagen in question receives typically rave reviews for its owner-friendly design and mechnical longevity. Since their first production in 1938, Volkswagen's Bugs, from the original Type 1 to the New Beetle, tend to impress with parts that can be serviced by custom mechanics or non-mechanical owners.

You really don't. There was a manufacturers defect in the 2003 and 2004

NB convertibles. Upholstery shops will tell you that the window needs to

be reglued. Average cost to remove the top and reglue is about $500, but

they will not guarantee the fix. Save up and buy a new top from Robbins in

California and have it installed. Total price for the top and install is around

$1500.

Best Rgards and Good Luck,

Glenn

unfortunately no...sorry. the 75 is an (irs) independent rear suspension. which means it is a double jointed axle meaning it has 2 cv boots on each side, opposed to a single jointed on a 57 which is reffered to a swing axle...

It's on the front of the transmission. VW Joe! Have a Great Day

when you open the engine cover look at the right side as you stand . no 1 cylinder is the inner one in the side where the starter located.

First off there is a radio wiring diagram for a 1972 super beetle found here basically the exact same as the 1971:

You go under the hood (which is actually where the spare tire goes in the front of our 1972 super beetle). Im taking out an old Kenwood Radio which was compatible with the 1972 super beetle (that's what im working on, but i understand the question here is about a 1971, however they are relatively the same). If you take it out to install a new radio youll need to remove the face plate in the car and modify it with a rotary tool (shave of the existing face to create a standard face that a modern radio/CD player will fit into). also there are little metal markers to keep the old radio in, youll need to bend those off or shave them off to fit a modern radio in the dash.

after this, make sure your new CD player or radio uses14 volt DC power consumption. anything more can mess with alternator power.

use a power amp conditioner directly connected to the batery on a toggle switch or use another 12 volt battery if needed to have extra amps to feed a radio. Know that your bugs alternator may not charge two 12 volt batteries properly however. it depends on if the batteries are hooked up in parallel or in a series. i believe series is the way it will charge properly on a 1971 bug but ideally youd want to run the batteries in parallel for more amps. this might require a better alternator which youll need to shop around for.

Im installing a new Pioneer CD player/usb reader that has 4 speakers (pretty close to the original speakers watt output/power)

go to Craigslist.com you can find all kinds of VW parts in our area, someone might have a used one. or you can go to midamericamotorworks.com they'll for sure have a new one, or you can try JCwhitney

Wiring diagram available at www.thesamba.com. Print the largest color copy possible and laminate it. Kinkos.

Unless your experienced, a wiring diagram can look very complex, but it really is not.

I rewired a 73 standard beetle (first time I ever did such a thing) by removing each wire and labeling where it came from and where it went to and wrote all of this down on a log. Then I laid out the required number of wires, really only about six run front to back, and labeled each end. Run extra wires if possible in case they are needed in the future. You will need one for each turn signal but the other lights share a wire. You will need to wires from the voltage regulator to the alternator/generator/battery.

Repeat this for the lights in the front. That's basically all there is to it. It's a little more complex if there are no wires to copy off of but keep at it.

Super bug is a game manufactured, developed and released by Atari. It is an arcade game developed.

I weighed my '69 convert a few months ago and it weighed approximately 1960 lbs.

A range from 4,079 millimeters (160.6 inches) to 4,278 millimeters (168.4 inches) answers questions regarding the length of the Volkswagen Beetle. The first figure represents the length in the Volkwagen Beetle Type 1 manufactured from 1938 to 2010 while the second shows the length of the A5 VW Beetle produced since 2011. In-between the two extremes stands a length of 4,129 millimeters (162.6 inches) for the VW New Beetle released between 1997 and 2010.