VW Super Beetle

Probably in the hardest place to get to. These cars are cool looking, but unique is a four-letter word when it comes to repairing these things. Get the owners manual and a bible and pray the owner's manual has it in there. Be careful not to break anything either as VW parts are crazy expensive. I just repaired a 2006 Passat that hit a deer and spent over $7600 in parts alone.

The 1975 regular Beetle windshield will fit the 1971 Super Beetle.

All are designed for regular unleaded All are designed for regular unleaded

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More then likely the rubber hose going to the wheel has collapsed inside. The insides will rot out and expand/collapse. When you hit the brakes there is a lot of pressure going TOO the brakes, when you release the pedal it's just a light spring that release's the pressure so when the rubber hose collapses the fluid has no way to return. You would have to have the same pressure to -return- the fluid. An easy way to tell is take off the hose at the brake end and with a helper have them push on the brake pedal slightly and there should still be quite a bit of fluid coming out if it's ok. If it just dribbles out then it's plugged.

If you want to know if you can leave the brake switch out of the master cylinder the answer is no, it will leak.

If you can plug the hole with something that does not protrude into the housing to seal it the MC should still work, you just won't have any brake lights.

Be aware though the Master Cylinder creates a large amount of pressure when you step on brake pedal so you need to screw something into it or it will just blow out or leak.

You can use an electric micro switch on the pedal itself like the modern cars do to keep the brake lights.

If you want to know if the MC will still work if keep the switch in it then yes, but again you won't have brake lights with a bad switch without using something else.

Starting at the carb throttle linkage there is a little bolt that holds the cable. Soak it in penetrating oil first and carefully hold it in place with a pair of pliers as you loosen the bolt. Might wind up breaking this setup but don't worry as it is not expensive or hard to replace. Once it is loose go to the inside of the car, behind the throttle pedal you will see the other end of the cable. Pull the cable through. Feed the new cable through the little tube in the floor with a little grease on the cable to keep it freed up. It will come out behind the fan shroud in the engine compartment, use a mirror and a good light to help find it. Feed it through the fan shroud tube and reattach it to the carb throttle linkage. Test to make sure it works free and give full throttle for those drag races I'm sure you get into.

Yes, the hoods from 1968 to 1979 will all interchange.

There isn't one. You have to remove the round plate on the bottom of the engine. Inside you will find a screen dome. You will need to replace it along with the seal. Put it all back in place and add 2.5 quarts of oil. It is a good idea to have the heads adjusted at the same time as an oil change, but remember that need to be done on a stone cold engine. If you go to www.mamotorworks.com you can get the oil seals and screen for a couple of bucks. I would change out the trans fluid if this is you first time doing any of this (just bought it or something).

The slides are most likely rusted. Remove the 4 nuts per seat from under the car, remove the seats and replace slides

You have a short somewhere.

To find it, remove all the fuses and wait till the cable cools down. Put them back in one by one. Give it about 20-30 minutes to heat up--you might have to run the car to do this. Eventually the cable will heat up, and when it does you'll know which circuit the short's in.

Also make sure the battery POSTS and connectors are clean and have not gotten a hard film on them. I've had a few that after sitting for a while get an thin hard film that I've had to chip off. Get one of those wire type battery cable and post cleaners. The post's and fittings should be a shiny silver color when done. Buy a battery post "lube" to protect it. If the battery connector is only getting contact from a small patch on the post, then it will heat up also.

On the very front of the transmission, just above the front tranny mount on the passenger (right) side. Kind of a pain to get at the wires. It's the only switch there.

Listed in the owners manual and on the drivers door post. It is 165-15

I have a 98 camaro and it has the same problem. I found that if i took off the top cover for the shifter i can push down on the housing and my high beams will come on.. I found a small plastic piece that came off. Try opening and looking. I heard that alot of camaros have this problem. The switch goes bad.

The 96 Camaro's high beams wires do not run anywhere near the shift lever that is on the floor of the 1996 Camaro. It is built into the turn signal selector which is on the steering column. Your problem is either your relay (under the hood in the little box on the driver's side, you have to remove the top to access it) or your turn signal selector. Does the turn signal selector click when you pull it back? If it does click you probably need a new relay. If it does not click you will need to pull the steering wheel to get to that selector and change it. Also look behind the turn signal selector there is a small wire connector that if it comes loose your high beams and cruise control will not work. Often you can connect these wires and get everything back.

http://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02-general-41/high-beam-issues-58085/

This is a two-person job.

Person one goes under the car and looks at the clutch lever on the transmission. Is there a great big wing nut on it, or two 13mm nuts? If you've got the nuts, you loosen the outer one so you can turn the inner one, which adjusts the clutch, before retightening the outer one.


The other person gets in the car and holds the clutch pedal down about half an inch. Then the person underneath tightens or loosens the nut until it's just touching the clutch lever.

Hold your clutch disc sideways. The middle hub sticks out farther on one side than on the other. The side it's sticking out farthest on goes toward the transmission. Don't worry...if you put it on upside down the pressure plate won't fit, which is your signal to flip the disc over. The important thing is to be sure you have the hole in the clutch disc exactly aligned with the hole in the gland nut...if you don't, the engine won't go back in.

It takes alot of work and several hours (6-7 usually). You basically have to remove most of the front end of the car. You need to take out the headlights, sidemarkers, the whole front bumper assembly. then lay the radiator down (still attached to the ac hoses and most wires but disconnect the radiator hoses). DO NOT disconnect any ac hoses or you will have to later recharge the system. You also have to remove the idler pulley to get to the top bolt of the alternator. Good luck. I just changed my first one last nite!

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That's the watercooled instructions. For aircooled it is a lot different.

Unhook the battery first. Then remove the alternator belt and the carb, followed by the alternator strap, the wiring going to the alternator, the hood and the intake manifold. (Hint: this is a real good time to put urethane intake manifold boots on.) Next, remove all the bolts holding the fan shroud in and lift the fan shroud, with alternator attached, out of the car. Remove the four 10mm bolts and take out the alternator. Unbolt the fan from the alternator, and it's out. (At this point I would change the spark plugs because without all the ton of metal in the way, it's a lot easier.)

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Bad bulbs Bad dimmer switch Believe it or not, you can blow the filaments for low or high beams only, without affecting the opposite. However since it is highly unlikely that you are going to blow the same filament in both lights at the same time, I would suggest that you check your dimmer switch.

Try looking under the back seat.

Traction is one reason, as the engine and transmission are on top of the drive wheels. Another reason was that the engine and transmission could be built, installed, and replaced as a packaged unit. That also freed up more room for the occupants. The rear engine location allowed for the frontal area of the car to be lowered, giving the car a more (for the 1930's) aerodynamic shape. The car needed all the aerodynamic help it could get, as it was intended to carry 2 adults, 2 children, and their luggage down the road at 100km/h on a budget, all with Depression Era technology.

The drawbacks to rear engine designs include: 1) Poor engine access. 2) Tricky handling at the vehicle's limits unless there is careful engineering and suspension setup. 3) More involved linkages for transmission and engine controls. 4) As the front wheels turn side to side for steering, the front wheel wells must be big enough to accommodate them, leaving less room for the fuel tank, spare tire, and luggage.

Those drawbacks became less acceptable in economy cars as time went on, for advances in constant velocity axle joints enabled engineers to economically mount engine and transmission over the front driven wheels, giving compact cars rear engine-like traction, but with more luggage room, more forgiving handling, and better engine access.

well, that's not really a question, but the only vacuum line goes from the vacuum advance on the side of the dizzy, to the carburettor, just around the throttle linkage if i recall. hope this helps.

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12 volt- 6 volt beetles were only made until '67, i believe.