VW Super Beetle

Pull the engine. Remove the heads. Take the heads and money to a machinist because he needs to refinish the valve seats. He can also test your heads for cracks, and if he finds any you need to replace the head.

One possibility is small hole in the muffler. I had that happen once, and it whistled under accelaration.

one option is to find the beeping mechanism and simply unplug the wires to it. the beeper should be near the bottom of the steering wheel.

There are two versions of the Super Beetle, one made in 1971 and 1972, the other in 1973, 1974 and 1975.

All of them have a louvered front apron (the piece of sheetmetal below the trunk lid, behind the front bumper) and the spare tire lays flat in the trunk. All Standard Beetles had the front tire standing up in front of the gas tank.

The 1973-75 Supers also have a curved windshield.

Yes,

it came stock with a generator.

There are a lot of sites that show you how to install alternator tho.

The oil filler tube is located on the alternator stand next to the alternator, or generator on older Beetles. There is a special tool for removal which few people seem to own, a crafty mechanic may be able to fabricate his own tool. If you remove the oil filler cap and look closely inside the tube you will see two slots opposite each other a couple inches down inside it. The tool fits these slots and then it unscrews off the stand.Due to the age of these enginesit can be difficult to persuade it to come off, and all manner of undesirable filth can be unleashed into the engine crankcase inthe process, so removal of the generator/alternator stand may be recommended. A sturdy vise would be able to hold itfor removal on the bench. The only reason for removal might be replacement with some manner of aftermarket type oil filler setup, many are available.

Go to a good supplier like CIP1.com and check out the different hoods.

The super beetle is longer so the front bonnet or hood from a standard will probably not fit.

yes it does,

it comes from the back of the exhaust and goes into the heater channels along side of the car, check if the orriginal exhaust is there, the pipes that go from it in to the heater channels aswell,

have a look under the car by the engine.

need more help?

check thesamba.com

I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel pump, attached a two-foot section of fuel host to the fuel line, then blew compressed air through the line until I could hear bubbles coming from the fuel tank. Then I draped the hose over the back bumper, and let the dirty fuel drain through the system into a spare gas tank. When clear gas was coming out, I reconnected the fuel pump, changed the fuel filter, and it was good to go.

You'll have to get the Robert Bentley Service Manual to show you how as it's an involved process. It's not that hard but there are a lot of pieces to put in the right order.

Probably in the hardest place to get to. These cars are cool looking, but unique is a four-letter word when it comes to repairing these things. Get the owners manual and a bible and pray the owner's manual has it in there. Be careful not to break anything either as VW parts are crazy expensive. I just repaired a 2006 Passat that hit a deer and spent over $7600 in parts alone.

The 1975 regular Beetle windshield will fit the 1971 Super Beetle.

All are designed for regular unleaded All are designed for regular unleaded

1-4-3-2

More then likely the rubber hose going to the wheel has collapsed inside. The insides will rot out and expand/collapse. When you hit the brakes there is a lot of pressure going TOO the brakes, when you release the pedal it's just a light spring that release's the pressure so when the rubber hose collapses the fluid has no way to return. You would have to have the same pressure to -return- the fluid. An easy way to tell is take off the hose at the brake end and with a helper have them push on the brake pedal slightly and there should still be quite a bit of fluid coming out if it's ok. If it just dribbles out then it's plugged.

Starting at the carb throttle linkage there is a little bolt that holds the cable. Soak it in penetrating oil first and carefully hold it in place with a pair of pliers as you loosen the bolt. Might wind up breaking this setup but don't worry as it is not expensive or hard to replace. Once it is loose go to the inside of the car, behind the throttle pedal you will see the other end of the cable. Pull the cable through. Feed the new cable through the little tube in the floor with a little grease on the cable to keep it freed up. It will come out behind the fan shroud in the engine compartment, use a mirror and a good light to help find it. Feed it through the fan shroud tube and reattach it to the carb throttle linkage. Test to make sure it works free and give full throttle for those drag races I'm sure you get into.

If you want to know if you can leave the brake switch out of the master cylinder the answer is no, it will leak.

If you can plug the hole with something that does not protrude into the housing to seal it the MC should still work, you just won't have any brake lights.

Be aware though the Master Cylinder creates a large amount of pressure when you step on brake pedal so you need to screw something into it or it will just blow out or leak.

You can use an electric micro switch on the pedal itself like the modern cars do to keep the brake lights.

If you want to know if the MC will still work if keep the switch in it then yes, but again you won't have brake lights with a bad switch without using something else.

Yes, the hoods from 1968 to 1979 will all interchange.

There isn't one. You have to remove the round plate on the bottom of the engine. Inside you will find a screen dome. You will need to replace it along with the seal. Put it all back in place and add 2.5 quarts of oil. It is a good idea to have the heads adjusted at the same time as an oil change, but remember that need to be done on a stone cold engine. If you go to www.mamotorworks.com you can get the oil seals and screen for a couple of bucks. I would change out the trans fluid if this is you first time doing any of this (just bought it or something).

The slides are most likely rusted. Remove the 4 nuts per seat from under the car, remove the seats and replace slides

On the very front of the transmission, just above the front tranny mount on the passenger (right) side. Kind of a pain to get at the wires. It's the only switch there.

You have a short somewhere.

To find it, remove all the fuses and wait till the cable cools down. Put them back in one by one. Give it about 20-30 minutes to heat up--you might have to run the car to do this. Eventually the cable will heat up, and when it does you'll know which circuit the short's in.

Also make sure the battery POSTS and connectors are clean and have not gotten a hard film on them. I've had a few that after sitting for a while get an thin hard film that I've had to chip off. Get one of those wire type battery cable and post cleaners. The post's and fittings should be a shiny silver color when done. Buy a battery post "lube" to protect it. If the battery connector is only getting contact from a small patch on the post, then it will heat up also.

Listed in the owners manual and on the drivers door post. It is 165-15

I have a 98 camaro and it has the same problem. I found that if i took off the top cover for the shifter i can push down on the housing and my high beams will come on.. I found a small plastic piece that came off. Try opening and looking. I heard that alot of camaros have this problem. The switch goes bad.

The 96 Camaro's high beams wires do not run anywhere near the shift lever that is on the floor of the 1996 Camaro. It is built into the turn signal selector which is on the steering column. Your problem is either your relay (under the hood in the little box on the driver's side, you have to remove the top to access it) or your turn signal selector. Does the turn signal selector click when you pull it back? If it does click you probably need a new relay. If it does not click you will need to pull the steering wheel to get to that selector and change it. Also look behind the turn signal selector there is a small wire connector that if it comes loose your high beams and cruise control will not work. Often you can connect these wires and get everything back.

http://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02-general-41/high-beam-issues-58085/