Cleaning

Drowning, spraying and swatting are ways to kill Japanese beetles. A minor infestation may be controlled by manual removal of bodies from plant surfaces to soapy water-filled buckets. Horticultural oils against eggs and insecticidal soaps against immature and mature stages represent organic controls.

Put a rug over it. Ok, Seriously now if the spot is not large you can trim the carpet fibers. You could also try to dye the area or cut the bad piece out and insert a matching remnant. Other than that I don't know if there is much you can do. If you can, treat the area immediately with copious amounts of cold water. For chlorine bleach, add 1 Tbsp. vinegar in each 600 mls water. If the colour has been removed by the bleach, it cannot readily be restored.

No the plant will detirate from the chemicles in the bleach, go to your local bunnings store and look around for some mold easer and or ask the person that works there, putting on bleach is just like polution. Smart girl age 11

Sponges are animals not plants and they consist of an outer thin layer of cells and a inner mass of cells. Sponges do not have nervous, digestive or circulatory systems, instead they rely on maintaining a constant flow of water going through their bodies to obtain food, oxygen and to remove waste products. There are 9000 known species of sponges known and about 80% of them are saltwater , the lowest depths of some species of sponges are 8,800 m (5.5mi).

There are a number of options in regards to cleaning pet stains. One of the most common remedies offered as a suggestion is to clean the stained area with either vinegar or ammonia. Both are inexpensive household items, and both contain a high enough level of acidity to break down stains. However, vinegar and ammonia are quite possibly the worst things you can use for pet stains. Both vinegar and ammonia contain some of the same chemical compounds found in urine. The scent of these compounds can cause confusion with your dog and increase the likelihood that your pet continues to go to the bathroom in that spot. While vinegar or ammonia make break down the visual stain, they are not breaking down the odor. Instead, they are adding to to. Because of this the probability that your dog will continue to have accidents in that spot.

Another popular suggestion are enzymatic cleaners. These types of cleaners are often hailed as a green solution as they operate on the principal that bacteria released on the stain will naturally combat it by breaking it down. As wonderful as this sounds, the likelihood of enzymes properly working against the pet stain are low. Enzymes are often compared to a lock and key scenario. You can have all the keys in the world, but only the right one will work on a lock. Likewise, only the right enzyme will break down a certain stains. Enzymes are extremely sensitive. The conditions for them to work must be a 100% match. Variables that affect whether an enzyme will be successful include temperature, moisture, and interference from other chemicals previously used. The stain itself can also affect the enzyme. Dog's diets can add variables in the stain that can prevent the enzyme from working. While the enzyme might be able to battle some components of the stain, it often doesn't have the energy to get into the padding. While initially an enzymatic cleaner may seem to be doing good, the odor and stain generally return in a few days. Once again inviting your puppy to sniff out the spot as a bathroom.

To properly put an end to accidents, the area needs to be properly cleaned. The odor needs to be removed as well as the visual stain, as it is the odor that will draw your dog back to that spot. The best way to clean these types of stains is with a surfactant based cleaner like Genesis 950. Genesis 950 is a green cleaner with no harsh chemicals, no enzymes and no ammonia or vinegar. It works with water to break the bonds of stains and lift them from the surface. The best way to clean pet accidents is using a steam cleaner or carpet cleaning machine. This will allow the solution to get below the surface of the carpet to the pad. When a pet has an accident on the carpet, it is important to remember that the stain seeps below the surface and traps the odor in. Cleaning the surface might remove the visual stain, but it does not address the odor trapped below which can be smelt by your dog. It is that smell that will keep them going in that spot. Using Genesis 950 will deodorize the scent and in addition will also kill any germs and bacteria within the carpet and padding. This will remove odor and prevent the growth of bacteria or mildew.

Of course part of puppy training requires regular visits outside. While outside, use that time to help your pet find an area where they can relieve themself. When they have found an area, always take them to that spot and let them take time to smell the area. This will help them establish that area as their bathroom. In doing so, your dog will not be looking for such an area in the home.

Treat your pets with frountline or advantage,they seem to work the best. Spray your carpets and furniture with an aerosol that contains a IGR (insect growth regulator). This type of spray will kill the adult fleas and also prevent the flea larvae from developing. Any other sprays are a waste of money.
Go to your local veterinary clinic and ask for some flea killer for your animals. Or you could go to Lowes or Wal-mart and buy 7 dust and sprinkle outside your house. It's spelled Flea's by the way.

Our dog was sprayed by a skunk last night at 1:30 a.m., and made it into the house before we could sequester and wash him outside. He tracked the skunk smell through the living room, kitchen, dining room and down into the basement where he holed up in his bed. We got him into the garage as quickly as possible and washed him in a 1 qt. fresh hydrogen peroxide/2 tsp liquid soap/ 1 quarter c. baking soda mix. Mix in a bowl, not a bottle! We rubbed it in, let it sit for 10 minutes, then rinsed and washed with regular flea soap. It took the smell out of the dog immediately (wear rubber gloves to wash and toss your clothing afterward). Keep out of eyes!!

As for the house, we tossed the dog bed, opened what windows we could (cold night), lit about 20 scented candles, and Febreezed every cloth surface in the house. I also put out several saucers of vinegar and bowls of baking soda. It was brutal trying to go back to bed, but by 10 a.m., after making coffee and simmering some apples and cinnamon on the stove, the smell was unnoticeable to everyone but my husband and I. We consulted a friend who works in the fire restoration business about renting an ozone generator to get the rest of the smell out, and he recommended the peroxide mixture for every place the dog walked - he said it works just as well (but test soft surfaces first, as the peroxide could fade them). It's now 21 hours after the skunk hit, candles have been burning all day, fabrics have been repeatedly febreezed and freshened, bed sheets and comforters washed, and I can (for the most part) no longer smell the skunk. I still hit small pockets in the house where I think I can smell it, but it's so much better than I ever anticipated. Visitors cannot smell it at all.

Bottom line - open windows and doors, light strong scented candles, febreeze the heck out of your house, and get all affected clothing/beds outside. Skunk spray is an oil-based substance, so you must neutralize with peroxide. Tomato juice is a myth.

One of my dogs was sprayed by a skunk, came in the house and I could not get ride of the smell. After trying 3 other products I used a product called "Room Shocker" and after 4 hours the smell was permanently removed. Easy to use and safe. You do need to leave the area for 4 hours. the company that makes it also have a Skunk 911 kit that includs "doggiCLEEN", a new spry that will clean the dogs fur and get rid of the odor fast.

See if you can hire a professional steam cleaner - the superheated steam sterilize the carpet and therefore will kill the fleas, if the carpet is properly steamed all over. Note, if you have fleas in the carpet then there have been or are pets in the house, you need to wash the pet bedding regularly and make sure that you vacuum through the house at least twice a week (concentrating on where the pets are).

ALWAYS WEAR A RESPIRATOR!

Heat the structure to it's thermal kill point.

(Use air purifier for next steps)

Remove any severely affected areas like drywall and carpeting.

Spray and scrub all framework with a mold repellent.

Wipe down all walls with the repellent.

Install dehumidifier to keep relative humidity below 50%

Or call a professional to do this for you since they have all the tools on hand and will guarantee their work against regrowth. (not all companies use these steps but it's the BEST way to ensure the problem is gone make sure to ask A LOT of questions so you don't get taken advantage of and that they warranty their work.)

I understand, resolve carpet cleaner works real well.

You should clean your horse out daily if it is stables either full time or overnight.

There are occassionally some methods used in farming where to keep heat in you simply pile on more straw and only clean out at the end of the winter but this is more for cows/cattle than horses who prefer to be clean and dry.

It does not take long to do - 20-30 minutes to clean out, bank the straw up and leave the floor to dry before bedding down again for the night.

You need to wash clothing, or objects including yourself as soon as possible. You can use house hold cleaners and laundry detergent on clothing or the objects. White vinegar can be used as well as hydrogen peroxide. The ver also has a special soap you can use.

To get skunk smell out of clothes you need to keep in mind that skunk spray leaves an oily residue which is what makes it so hard to get rid of.

If the clothing came into direct contact with spray (straight from the skunk, rubbed off a sprayed dog, etc) then the oil needs to be broken down to remove the smell. Launder them with a degreasing detergent (or detergent with a degreaser added). Some solutions list hydrogen peroxide (which can bleach things) as a possibility, but for clothing you might want to try soaking in the following:

1 Liter White Vinegar

1/4c Baking Soda

1 Tsp dish soap

The dish soap will help break down the skunk film, while the vinegar and baking soda will help neutralize the odor. After soaking them, run them through the washing machine using cold or cool water.

If instead your clothing merely picked up the odors out of the air (no direct contact with the skunk's spray), or if they are materials that are not readily laundered, then you can rent an ozone generator which will help neutralize the odor. Ozone reacts with many different scent molecules and breaks them down - this is the same effect it has on skunk odor. If you have a number of items that have leftover skunk smell on them, this can be an effective way to room odor from them at one time.

They itch for about a week or two....but the small red dots remain for several weeks....they fade over time.

Juvenile fish are called fry or fingerlings.

If you have alot of bugs collected to the metal grid, it is best to use a air hose with a nozzle on it. Blow the bugs off and then plug the bug zapper back into the electrical outlet and it should be good for a few days.

Pour white vinegar in your washer & wash the cover as extra heavy.

For the mattress, rub a generous amount of baking soda and salt (as salt is an abrasive) roughly into the dampened area. Add a small amount of vinegar ***REMEMBER THIS WILL FOAM A LOT*** and scrub more. This will take a lot of elbow grease. Rinse. Always make sure the mattress is completely dry before you put the sheets back on.

Alternatively, use an upholstery cleaner on the mattress after the vinegar mix. To avoid this in the future, invest in a non-permeable cover for your mattress so that any future incidents will be easier to take care of. Unfortunately, animals will often repeat the act.

It may be a type of soil fungus which thrive on both dead and decaying matter in the soil and too wet conditions. Over-watering can make it worse. Try to aerate the soil as much as possible and improve the drainage. It most likely will not harm plants, although seedlings would be more vulnerable.

If by mold you mean cottony white threads in the soil or fuzzy colonies, especially in places with deeply layered plant detritus, then you do not want to remove them. They, collectively, are the saprotrophic fungi. Saprotrophs, decompose plant matter, where most of the carbon in terrestrial ecosystems is sequestered. They do not photosynthesize instead they grow on dead or dying material breaking it down into molecular components. Fungal respiration returns much of this carbon to the atmosphere as CO2. Plants in turn take the CO2 and sunshine to create carbohydrates. The nitrogen and minerals are held by they fungi. Many fungi enter directly into a symbiosis with plants exchanging the retained nutrients and growth hormones directly for the plants carbohydrates. Trees in temperate forests are dependent on the fungi that accumulate minerals from the decomposing litter, before the minerals pass into the deeper layers of the soil where they would be unavailable to the roots. This exchange can enhance a plant chances of survival five fold. Plants give some 10- 25% of the growing seasons photosynthetically fixed carbon dioxide back to the soil microorganisms through the roots, as carbohydrate exudates. The reason appears that in exchange they are joined to the underground network of fungal hyphae that reaches between plants and much farther than the plants root system. This hyphal net supports and protects its host plants. Many of these fungi protect there host from pathogens and are our original sources for antibiotics.

Keep in mind that what may appear to be mold might actually be a BENEFICIAL FUNGUS, which resembles gray/white 'root extensions'. A great catch-all for fungi, bacteria, algae & viruses is a product called PHYSAN 20. Its inexpensive & effective.

Stains from bedbugs are likely to be protein stains, so do not put them in hot water. Instead pretreat the stains with OxyClean and then soak them in cold water. Once the stains are no longer visible, wash them in cold water and detergent before drying.

You could try filling it with water and adding a good whack of bicarbonate of soda or even one of the tablets you use to clean false teeth. Leave overnight and then give a good rinse. Good luck!!

Try fingernail polosh remover, a product called goop-off, or mineral spirits.

Place the plate in the freezer for an hour or two. When the wax is thoroughly chilled and brittle, it should scrape off easily.