Cleaning

I have white cleats, and I needed to exchange them for a different size, so I used wet wipes for the cleats, and a mixture of Clorox and Dish soap for the hard to reach places such as the stitching. It works really good, but if you can try and treat them right away.

Fill a bag with vinegar and tie it to the shower head. Leave it on for a couple of hours then wash. Good as new.

Or get yourself a shower head with rubber nozzles which are much like the SparkPod filtered shower head on Amazon.

I don't know if you are looking for any specific person, but if your question is why should you leave the shower curtain on the inside of the tub, the answer is simple. If you leave the shower curtain on the outside of the tub and take a shower, the water that runs down the curtain will be on the floor outside of the tub and you will have a mess to clean up. But if the curtain is on the inside of the tub, the water just runs out of the tub and thee is no mess to clean up.

Conrad Hilton said it.

Glasses get cloudy because detergents no longer contain phosphate. Consequently, hard water deposits get left on your "clean" dishes. There is a new product that solves this exact problem. It's all natural and contains no phosphate. Search for "CitriClean of Florida."

Stop using Calcium Chloride as your chlorination and start using tablets. Keep your pH level at 7.2 and brush the calcium deposits occasionally. There are calcium removers that you can buy at your pool supply store that will reduce the calcium in the water as well. Hatawa

A clean sheet is where the goalkeeper has let in no goals in the entire match. For example a football team wins 2-0. They haven't had any goals against and so it is a clean sheet. Often when a team gets a clean sheet the goalie or defence will get an extra bonus which is why players want a clean sheet.

I am afraid that the only way is for you to get a pool filter to look after it for you. There are small not terribly expensive units available and in the long run it will turn out cheaper than the excess water bill. in the mean time make sure you keep up some sort of germicide.

There are two types of loop pile lasts longer carpeting: Berber features large, uncut loops of natural-tone fibers varying in size and usually made from wool, nylon or olefin. It's denser than most other carpets and highly stain resistant.

Typically the slim is caused by mold , mildews and algae There is a product that is 100% all natural called mold muncher . find it at www.fiftyfiftycorp.cpm click on natures product and look for mold muncher

you simply get your pen and unscrew it all, you need a pen which doesnt go thin on the bit where you write. you get a thick elastic band and put it on your pen covering over 1 open end about 1 cm away from the end. celotape it on with alot of cellotape then get the bit with ink in put it back in pull the elastic back and fire.

u freaking newbthats not how u do it

This is what i do:

#1- I take a cloth, wet it and take off all the loose dirt on the saddle.

#

2- I take some Liquid Glycerine saddle soap (Leather new) and spray it on the saddle then scrub it into the saddle (Whatever you do, Don't let it run)

#3- Once your finishes that clean the cloth in warm water then squeeze the water out and effortlessly wipe the surface of the saddle.

#4- Use a different cloth and i either recommend Leather CPR Or Effax Leather balsam and scrub into the saddle.

#5- Check your saddle for Non treated scuffs and scratches, if there is 1 you didn't do it properly.

Activated Carbon absorb organics such as soap from water. Reverse Osmosis is one of the ways soap can be removed from the water.

now some may well say you use soap and water so the concentration of water to soap you will depend on how much water you use. If you use chicken stock cubes you will use alot less water. or gravy powder for that matter. Can i also suggest you you put flour and eggs on your car before washing as this will help to remove road residues. Did you know the panda bear has now been reclassified as a bear. Hello Matthew. I KNOW WHERE YOU LIVE.

power washers

Often, just a dry brushing will do the trick. Use a very clean toothbrush, and just buff the stains and the area around it. If that doesn't do the trick, you may need to run it up to a dry cleaner.

Saturate the stain with sprayed hair spray, then throw the garment into the wash. If the stain doesn't completely come out, repeat the process. DO NOT dry the garment until the stain has washed out!

What happens is that the hair spray, which contains lacquer, dissolves the ink, but the hair spray also washes out in water/detergent. (Taking the ink with it.)

You don't mention what sort of dirt you have in there, but whenever I have to stay in a hotel, I think about all the previous occupants, and I run vinegar water through the whirlpool before I put even one toe in. Just fill the tub as if you were going to use it, add at least 1 cup of vinegar, and run the jets. Room service should be able to provide the vinegar - don't use bleach, which could damage the interior hoses. Vinegar will dissolve soap and kill off most bacteria.

Answer: VERY CAREFULLY! Beyond that what you want to do is add Soda Ash to the solution that you mixed up. For every 16 oz of Muriatic acid use about 3 lbs of Soda Ash. Soda Ash is also know as pH rise, pH increaser, pH Plus, Sodium Carbonate, Balance Pak 200, and any thing that it is used specifically to increase the pH level in swimming pool water. ONLY USE A PRODCUT SPECIFICLY DESIGNED FOR THIS PURPOSE. NEVER MIX CHLORINE AND MURIATIC ACID TOGETHER IF THE EXPLOSION DOES NOT KILL YOU THE CHLORINE GAS WILL. Once the Soda Ash has done its thing you can safely pour the solution on the ground and hose it down with fresh water. PH the particulates in the acid are now large enough to stay in your filter and not back on your salt cell. Why waste when you get to the large stuff at the bottom of the container fill it back up with water and pour it down the drain.

<ul><li>We have used regular bleach for many years on our 28 foot round above-ground pool. We recently bought a house with a 20 x 40 in ground pool. We are using regular bleach upon opening this year too. The above ground had a a "torpedo" filter with accordian (sp) filter. This one has the round sand filter. So far so good. All of our testing came out good as well.</li></ul><br /> More input from FAQ Farmers: <ul><li>My opinion is yes. The reason is that liquid shock is 12.5% sodium hypochlorite. Clorox bleach is 5.95% sodium hypochlorite. It's the same stuff just a lower concentration. I also use it myself.</li></ul><ul><li>NO, please do not do this, I did it 2 years ago and the pool people could not figure out why I could not get the green out of my pool, I finally had to break down and tell them I used household bleach, so they never knew to look for ammonia in the pool, well, when they tested for ammonia, the levels were to the roof, because the heat makes it go even higher, had to drain whole pool and start over.</li></ul><ul><li>The above is 100% WRONG. There is no ammonia in bleach. If you had any Cl in the pool, the ammonia would have been instantly oxidized to a combined chlorine. Sounds to me like you let your Cl run out and had something peeing in the pool, like a horse or cow. :D</li></ul><ul><li>Dont be so cheap. Clorox is less than half the concentration of liquid shock. use the real stuff and you wont have problems.</li></ul><ul><li>The various brands of "pool" chlorine are at best just concentrated calcium hypochlorite atworst they add a bunch of "enhancers" which seem ot only enhance their bottom line.</li></ul><ul><li>It takes a little more work using household chemicals but the cost savings are significant.</li></ul><ul><li>We have an in-ground pool about the size of the one mentioned above. This is just my two cents, but usually the people that tell you <b>not</b> to use Clorox are pool supply stores or maintenance people! They call this the <i>"hillbilly solution"</i> primarily because granulated shock can run up to $200 a bucket whereas the same amount of Clorox might cost you $15... they make no money if you are buying Clorox at the Dollar Store. That being said, <b>we personally</b> only use Clorox in the fall and winter months when nobody is swimming. In my opinion... if your intention is just to keep the water clear, by all means use Clorox. If someone is actually going to be swimming I would use the real stuff. There's no evidence that using Clorox during swimming months will harm anyone, and it by no means harms your pool or equipment... but we just feel safer with the real stuff. <b>That being said, don't let your pool guy talk you into buying hundreds of dollars worth of chemical from him in the winter when Clorox does the same thing!</b></li></ul><ul><li>Having worked in the pool industry for many years, here is my opinion. Yes, pool companies are out to make money. It's a fact, but it is business. Second, I would NOT recommend using standard Clorox as a sanitizer because it is as best a 10% aqueous solution of hypochlorus acid. Normal pool shock, Calcium Hypochlorite, is on average 67% concentration. I sold 1Lb bags for $3.99, or 25LB buckets for $87.99. 1 LB per 10,000 gallons per week, along with 1 chlorine tablet per 5,000 gallons per week. This in conjunction with a proper algaecide, 24/7 filtering, and proper water balance (pH, Alk, calcium hardness, phosphate levels, and conditioner) you should have no problems keeping you</li></ul><ul><li>There is a ton of misinformation in the posts above. Clorox is roughly 6% sodium hypochlorite and the rest is water with a tiny bit of salt. Liquid pool chlorine is normally 10-12% sodium hypochlorite and the rest is water with a tiny bit of salt. THEY ARE IDENTICAL except for strength. Clorox is and has been used in thousands of pools daily. It's not neccesarily cheaper, but frequently more convenient. More importantly, Sodium hypochlorite is, by far, the BEST thing you can sanizite a pool with. Simply because nothing gets added to your pool except the little bit of salt. All other forms of chlorine add other things to your pool....many of which can accumulate over time and cause unwanted side effects.</li></ul><br /><br /> Bleach is Sodium Hypochlorite, just not as strong as pool shock or pool chlorine. <br /> It takes 3 to 4 times as much bleach to equal one gallon of pool chlorine in our swimming pool. This means you need to add 3 to 4 gallons of Clorox for every gallon of pool chlorine you normally add. Really, it is not cost effective, but will work, in a pinch. <br /><ul><li>Bleach will work fine (chlorine is chlorine, after all). However, bleach is very basic, and will raise the pH of the pool. I use it occasionally in my own pool, but only if I want to raise the pH at the same time. Don't use it if your pH is already too high, or you'll have to add some acid to bring the pH back down. Other chlorine sources, such as tablets or powder, don't increase the pH significantly.</li><li>First let me say that I have worked in commercial pool maintenance, retail pool spa sales, and have been a moderator on two different pool and spa forums and currently still a moderator on one. Second, let me say that chlorine bleach is fine to use in a pool, it is actually fairly pH neutral in use ( alkaline when it goes in and acidic when it sanitizes so the net effect is pH neutral. Most pH rise in pools is caused by outgassing of CO2).</li></ul><br /><br /> Ultra bleach is 6% sodium hypochlorite, standard bleach is 5.25%, bargain bleach around 3%. Liquid pool chloirine or shock is sold in 6%, 10% and 12.5% strengths with the last two being most common. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THE AMOUNT NEEDED! <br /><br /> There are basically two groups of chlorine used in pools): the chlorinated isocaynurates (trichlor and dichlor) which often result in ovestabilized pools and the subsequent problems (persistent algae and cloudy water often treated with algaecide, phosphate remover, and clarifier -which would be unnecessary if proper water maintenance guidelines are followed by limiting the cyanuric acid buildup by periodic draining and filling but it would also cut into the retailer's bottom line!) These are both acidic so the eat up total alkalinity and pH crashes are not uncommon. <br /><br /> Unstabilized (Inorganic) hyopchlorites (sodium, lithium, calcium) which have the least impact on pool chemistry. However, the last one will cause calcium hardness to increase, which can be a problem that leads to scaling and staining. <br /><br /> As far as cost comparison...One gallon of 6% household bleach will raise the FC by about 6 ppm in 10k gallons of water. One pound of 43% cal hypo shock (the most common kind sold these days) will raise the FC in 10k gallons of water by the about same amount. The price differential is great, however with the bleach costing about half as much in most localities! <br /><br /> One thing to realize if using unstabilized chlorine sources in an outdoor pool. You MUST add stabilizer to the water to around 50 ppm to keep the chlorine from being destroyed by UV from the sun. IF you don't the chlorine will not last very long in the pool (you will lose about half of it every 30 minutes) and this could cause algae outbreaks to occur and other problems. However, having a proper stabilizer level in the water and testing for it on a regular basis is just a normal part of proper pool maintenance, whether using a stabilized or unstabilized chlorine source! <br /><br /><ul><li>First let me say that I have worked in commercial pool maintenance, retail pool spa sales, and have been a moderator on two different pool and spa forums and currently still a moderator on one. Second, let me say that chlorine bleach is fine to use in a pool, it is actually fairly pH neutral in use ( alkaline when it goes in and acidic when it sanitizes so the net effect is pH neutral. Most pH rise in pools is caused by outgassing of CO2).</li></ul><br /><br /> Ultra bleach is 6% sodium hypochlorite, standard bleach is 5.25%, bargain bleach around 3%. Liquid pool chloirine or shock is sold in 6%, 10% and 12.5% strengths with the last two being most common. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THE AMOUNT NEEDED! <br /><br /> There are basically two groups of chlorine used in pools): the chlorinated isocaynurates (trichlor and dichlor) which often result in ovestabilized pools and the subsequent problems (persistent algae and cloudy water often treated with algaecide, phosphate remover, and clarifier -which would be unnecessary if proper water maintenance guidelines are followed by limiting the cyanuric acid buildup by periodic draining and filling but it would also cut into the retailer's bottom line!) These are both acidic so the eat up total alkalinity and pH crashes are not uncommon. <br /><br /> Unstabilized (Inorganic) hyopchlorites (sodium, lithium, calcium) which have the least impact on pool chemistry. However, the last one will cause calcium hardness to increase, which can be a problem that leads to scaling and staining. <br /><br /> As far as cost comparison...One gallon of 6% household bleach will raise the FC by about 6 ppm in 10k gallons of water. One pound of 43% cal hypo shock (the most common kind sold these days) will raise the FC in 10k gallons of water by the about same amount. The price differential is great, however with the bleach costing about half as much in most localities! <br /><br /> One thing to realize if using unstabilized chlorine sources in an outdoor pool. You MUST add stabilizer to the water to around 50 ppm to keep the chlorine from being destroyed by UV from the sun. IF you don't the chlorine will not last very long in the pool (you will lose about half of it every 30 minutes) and this could cause algae outbreaks to occur and other problems. However, having a proper stabilizer level in the water and testing for it on a regular basis is just a normal part of proper pool maintenance, whether using a stabilized or unstabilized chlorine source!

€Someone names Lazarus deleted this entire post so I broguth it back to as close to the original as I could. )

Sorry! Either get a new matress , get some new matress pads to cover up the stain, use hydrogen peroxide on it as soon as possible, or get over it.

If the flood water was from an actual flood, check with Red Cross, you may need to remove the carpeting. Some bacteria cannot be cleaned out of a carpet after a flood. If the flood was from internal pipes, it is probably an alkaline based stain. www.fabriclink.com/carpet/carpetstain.html can be a helpful site.

Step 1: Fill your sink with water and dish soap. (make sure there is a plug in the sink first so that your water does not drain out) Step 2: Put the dirty dishes into the water. Step 3: Get a dish rag. Step 4: Grip the dish rag tightly. Step 5: Press the dish rag to the dish with great force. Step 6:Move hand back and forth across the dish until all food and stains are removed from the dish. Step 7: rinse all bubbles and soap off of the dish. Step 8: Put wet dish into a drainer or on a towel. Step 9: Warning when washing a knife. Do not press down with great force, you will get cut. Step 10: When washing a plate or bowl, make sure you wash both sides or you will have dirty dishes because they will touch. Step 11: When all dishes have been successfully washed and rinsed, remove the plug from the sink, Let water drain and rinse down any food, bubbles, or remains in the sink. Step 12: You have to ring out your rag if you don't you will have a foul smell when it is drying or is dried. Step 13: When dishes in drainer are dry, Put dishes into their correct place or location. Step 14: Pat yourself on your back for doing a good job! =) ( make sure your hands are dry though.)

Paper towels and water. Depends on how much poop you're talking about though. I have ran the bottom of the shoe under the tap and wiped with paper towels. It's worked for me.

Another idea is to use a toothbrush to get the poop out of textured areas of the shoe, such as the tread on the bottom. Then throw the toothbrush away, do not use it again.