BMW Z3

Quite a bit. Primarily the engine (especially beginning in 2001) and the suspension. Also, a lot on interior and exterior trim differeces.

Buy a Bentley repair manual. It explains the procedure, with pictures.

"Yes, you can" (sounds very well known, no?), but it will be too expensive!

Beside the gear box you have to change allot of parts.

Better sale the car and buy one with automatic!

But the fun will never be the same ... no offense for automatic gear box lover!

BMW's phosphate-free antifreeze mixed 50:50 with DISTILLED water.

Trouble code P0061 means: HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 2, Sensor 3)

spare wheel is under floor in the boot along with tool kit

There's a good step by step procedure with photos posted here: http://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36oilchange/

If you mean the "Hood" then I can help you. First you'll need to pull the hood release lever located on the drivers side lower panel. Once this is done, you can now lift the hood away from the Hood Lock hinge. Now the secret to lifting the hood up fully is that the hood lever is in the RIGHT curve of the hood. Meaning- You'll use both hands to lift the hood. Left hand on the left curve and right hand on the right curve of the hood. The fingers on your right hand will feel the lever. Gently pull up on the lever and the hood will fully lift up.

I have 146,000 miles on a 1996 Z3, all original, never did anything to the motor except oil changes and tune-up. Still runs great

A maintained 4 cylinder M42 engine should last well over 200,000 miles.

A maintained 6 cylinder M52TU/M54 engine should last well over 300,000 miles, and it's reasonable to expect many to see over 500,000 miles -- long past the expected life of the body.

The high performance S52 engine used in the "M" version has production-date-specific issues, has higher maintainence requirements, and will typically see harsher use. It may have significantly shorter life than the other Z3 engines.

There are many reasons the light comes on as this is a complex system. You can not turn it off. It must be reset after the fault is fixed. Sometimes dirty speed sensors in the brakes will turn it on. It could be a "broken" control module or ABS pump, both of which are big $$$ to fix. This is a common problem with the Z3s and their ABS/traction control system. If the light is on, you still have brakes, just not ABS.

The Lug Pattern on a Z3 96 - 02 is 5/120 OE Wheel 16/7 Offset H Stud size 12/1.5b ............max

not knowing the year of your car, i guessed at 2002, in this case depending on package options there are two.. #9 and #44.

They look nice. They also distinguish it from the "M" version.

wherr is the resovoir for 2004 BMW power steering fluid

YOU MHAVE TO WAIT FOR OVER FIFTY MILES OF DRIVING MAYBE 75 IF AFTER THAT IT WONT GO OUT THEN COMPUTER WILL HAVE TO BE RESET AT DEALERS

There is a small, round, black button to the left of the steering column down low on the dash.

6.9 liters

My 1998 BMW Z3 is having the same problem and now the ignition seems to be locked and the key won't turn. The car died when I let the clutch out. The car now seems to be stuck in aux. mode. The key is out but the dash lights remain on and you can use all of the electronic options. Did you ever figure out what was wrong?

In my opinion its the BMW

This question needs to be clarified before it can be answered. See the discussion tab above.

I am not sure if the BMW Z3 comes with a standard retaining post. If there is a retaining post in the floor, you should absolutely use it. If there is no retaining post, you will get excellent traction on most floor mats with the non-slip backing they are produced with.

There is a special tool that plugs into a round port on the left side of the engine as you face it. You use it to reset both the oil and the service indicaters. If you do a search for a BMW Oil Reset Tool on ebay, you should be able to find one. I got mine there and it cost maybe $25 if I am remembering right. Mine came from the UK. Once you have the tool, you can reset at will!

5W40 synthetic is what manufacturer recommends on their new line of BMW's.

This type of oil lasts longer, 10 000 miles, and lubricates better at higher rmp.

Don't change you oil at 3000 miles, it's a waste of money. Synthetic oil does not brake down at 3000 miles or lose any of it's properties. It has same viscosity and maintains it's additives well into 10 000 mile range. Castrol has detailed testing and graphs proving this.

You only change oil often, at 3000 miles, if using conventional oil, which with use and age, loses it's addtitives and viscosity goes up (yes becomes thicher with age thus restricting oil flow, and therefore does not lubricate properly).

Actually it's cheaper to drive on synthetic oil, due to gas savings and much longer oil change intervals, up to 3X longer.

You cannot change the transmission fluid in a 96 BMW Z3 due to the transmission being completely sealed. This is called a "service free" or "no service" transmission at the dealership.

The Bentley BMW Z3 manual shows drain and fill plugs for automatuic and manual transmissions. It also suggests that due to absence of any dipstick, auto trannys should be checked by a qualified person.

I've seen recommendations to change fluid every 25,000 to 30,000 miles. Can't go wrong with a fluid change if correctly done and correct fluid used.