Chrysler Sebring

If the underside of your car was 'rust-proofed' then the weep holes for the water to escape are probably blocked. Thus, you probably have water inside the cavity under the passenger's seat. (Note: this is also where Chrysler, in their infinite wisdom, installs the audio amplifier on the JXi convertible!) Over time, and enough rain water to fill that cavity, it has nowhere else to go but INSIDE the car... (which also will eventually flood and short out your stereo amplifier).

To remedy this, I used a chisel to separate the sheet-metal seam (underneath), and also punched a few small holes, in the bottom of that floor cavity. The water ran out for about a half hour. I then proceeded to replace the damaged amplifier with the one purchased on eBay for $75. (GREAT design, Chrysler!)

Yes.

Two likely causes are a failed water pump or a failed head gasket.

Charge it, test it, replace it.

60,000 miles. This is an interference engine. If the belt breaks you will have serious engine damage.

Turn it clockwise until it clicks.

Red, 5 year, HOAT type.

There are 3 seatbelts in the back seat of a Chrysler Sebring Convertible. The middle seat belt is just a lap belt though.

OPen the trunk or hood, pull out the panel and replace the bulb... If that doesnt work, check your fuses

-ABS system codes for 1995-98 = code 43 rear right inlet solenoid valve.

13mm

4 cylinder it is under the housing where the upper radiator hose hooks to the engine.

6 cylinder it is under the housing where the lower radiator hose hooks to the engine.

I wish someone would be honest and take the time to post the correct answer. That is why I am taking the time to do this and save the mechanics time. The correct fuse is the #2 FUSE in the fuse panel under the hood. It is on the right side of the engine compartment next to the battery. It is a box style fuse that is square and blue in my case which I believe is OEM in my case. You can see the metal on the top of the clear fuse and I missed it even though I used a small flashlight due to the fact that it is a very small break in the metal. Confirm with a multimeter set for resistance which is usually the ohm/omega sign. The broken fuse will have infinite resistance and the unbroken, no resistance.

I just did it myself last weekend. The parts (Distributor, Cap, Rotor, and new spark plug wires) cost right around $300. I would add $600 to $700 in labor to that. So total right around $1,000.

The 1998 Chrysler Sebring has a timing belt.

A stereo wiring diagram for a 1997 Chrysler Sebring can be found in its maintenance manual. It can also be found in its repair manual.

Most likely their is a short or an open in the wiring harness to the ECM

its under the dash on the passanger side, look for it next to the blower motor, it has 5 or 6 wires and is held into place by 2 small screws 8mm if I remember right, its a 15 min job

I have the 2.7 in '02 convertible. Remove plastic splash guard underneath the car. OP sender is BEHIND a metal heat shield on back side of engine. Three bolts remove it. I had to get the Haynes Repair Manual to find it. Good investment for a do-it yourselfer!

I just did this job on a 2005 Sebring. Not sure if the 2001 is the same or not, but if it is, you need to remove the control arm and have a shop remove the old ones and press in the news ones. Those things are pressed in there EXTREMELY tight. I tried to use a ball joint press on it while it was still in the car and it bent/ruined my ball joint press. Unfortunatley, removing the control arm is not easy either. The back part of the conrol are you have to drop the brace that connect the 2 subframes together, which there are brake lines attached etc... That job is a royal pain. If you can, just pay your local Chrysler dealer to fix it.

Every car made since 1996 has OBD-II.

Please read the "On-board Diagnostics" article on Wikipedia.

All cars with OBD-II perform a test of the evaporative emissions system regularly.

Gasoline evaporates, and if the vapors are not captured and used, they will escape into the air, which is harmful to the environment and human health.

If the gas cap is not tightened enough, the car will fail it's own test. (generally, you will hear and feel a clicking when the torque limiter in the gas cap engages, indicating the cap is adequately tightened)

My advice is to tighten the gas cap adequately, clear the code, which will turn off the "check engine" light. (if you do not have the proper scan tool to do this, the code can be cleared by disconnecting the negative battery cable overnight, however you will lose presets such as the radio station presets and clock time, also your car will have to re-learn the necessary fuel trim, so it may feel slightly 'different' for a few days.

Any cracked vapor hose between the tank and engine will also cause this code.

u need to use a volt meter and set t.p.sensor and adjust the cable unless u can flash comp.

it doesn't have one

Check your codes I had a similar problem and it was solved buy replacing the MAP sensor