• 
• 1 answer

push start that puppy, dawg.

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

You usually don't see that BEFORE a race, unless it's during a practice session. What they are doing is scraping off rubber that was picked up on the hot tires in order to find the wear indicators. These are little "holes" in the tire surface. By measureing how deep the hole is, it tells them how much rubber is left on the tire, which then tells them how much tire wear there was on that run. There are about 5 holes across the tire, and at about 6 places around the tire. So this can tell them a lot about how the car set up is working. By heating and scraping off the build-up, it gives them a more accurate measurement, by making sure they are measureing the surface of the tire, and not the build-up. The build-up is usually picked up when the car drops down to the apron to come into the pits. I have seen teams ruff up tires with a wire brush or in some cases steel for traction

• 
• 1 answer

because your choke may be partly on. == == It could be the centrifugal clutch, it may need adjusting to fully engage at a higher RPM

your engine could be a little cold. my 49cc scooter does the same thing if i just start it and then go. let it run for a minute then try. Your carb could be out of adjustment.Turn the adjusting screw in till my motor revs a little then back it out some but not to much just got to play with the settings to get it right not hard at all, maybe even check the fule filter it could be clogged or cracked.

• 
• 1 answer

you should get a 80-125

• 
• 1 answer

I hate to pop the bubble, but if you have to ask, you should not proceed. The Honda will often smoke out the cam bearings and the head could need replaced. Consult a professional.

• 
• 1 answer

Let me give you some of my credentials first. Early in life I earned my pro license (the one you need to race supercross/outdoor nationals), and am now pursuing a degree in chemical engineering with a minor in physics. Thus, I now have ample experience in moto and a physical understanding of it, which I now delegate to share with you.

The idea of scrubbing is energy redirection. When your bike begins up the face of the jump, some of the energy it had from its velocity is stored in the suspension by loading it. The trick behind scrubbing is to redirect this stored energy from exploding upward, which will launch you upward, and waste precious seconds that could be used railing on the track. First step is to think of a diving board. This process much resembles the load/unload principle you experience in moto. you can either load up and extend your body, thus maximizing your launch, or bend your knees when you come down on the board, absorb the energy into your body, and minimize your height. Transforming this concept into being useful on your bike is the first step. When you reach the crest of the jump, allow your knees and elbows to buckle and absorb the energy in them. If properly executed, your butt should hit the seat, and you will "feel" the energy redirected into your body. No matter your skill level, this technique can be used, especially when exhausted at the end of a long moto, to save some time.

In a more advanced exercise, and after dialing the first step down, you can begin practicing all out scrubbing. This technique is more of an art, and always finishes with a touch of personalized pizzaz. Before attempting a scrub, identify which side you are comfortable whipping with. This preference will establish which way you will scrub. But fist, I cannot emphasize enough, YOU HAVE TO BE ABLE TO WHIP THE BIKE WELL FIRST!!!!!! Once comfortable with wipping, you can carry this concept into scrubbing. Approach the face of the jump on the same side as the way you will whip (if you whip the back of the bike to the left, approach the left side of the jump, and do the same for the right.) As you approach, stand tall and aggressive (pitched towards the front of the bike.) As you approach the crest of the jump, use your legs and arms to roll the bike downward and the back of the bike to the side of your whipping preference. The technique of absorbing the energy of the bike with your body, outlined above, should be simultaneously employed (scrubbing is a convoluted subject!!!) Turning the bars in towards the face is an advanced exercise that should only be practiced when holding them straight is perfected, as it only helps to absorb a little more energy. When perfected, at the top of the jump, it should feel like your bike is washing out, as it would if you were trying to rail through a flat corner with too much aggression. This is where the advantage comes from, if your bike is laid flat, the suspension will unload horizontally, and none of the energy will be transformed into a vertical explosion upward into the sky. Turning the bars into the face only helps you lay the bike more flat, and while helping to minimize energy transformation, is much more difficult to save. Once you leave the face of the jump, your attention will re-focus into saving it. Use your legs to straighten the bike out, and focus on your landing point in an attempt to return to vertical riding position to save your landing and a possible ride in an ambulance (I've been there when trying to show off for a camera, one such instance can be found on my old myspace account www.myspace.com/reynolds188).

On a final note, scrubbing is an incremental procedure, and small steps, on small jumps, should be perfected before becoming more and more aggressive in your approach. Practice it over and over on small hits before going all out and trying to look like bubba, or you will earn a date in the operating room and 6 months in a wheelchair!!!!

• 
• 1 answer

very reliable and go very fast lots of power

I'm going to go ahead and disagree with that statement. About 100%.

• 
• 1 answer

where your throttle cable attaches to the engine notice how the lever its attached to works. The notice if there is a screw on it or a spring. If theres a spring, tighten it up for more HP. If theres a screw, tighen it for more HP.

• 
• 1 answer

You don't get much of an upper body workout during road riding. Using the wrong technique and/or a poorly fitted bike can trash your knees. The hunched-forward position can cause pains in neck, shoulder, hands and the lower back. Depending on riding style and choice of surface there is a greater or smaller risk of falls. If you're riding in traffic you might become the target for road rage or sheer clumsiness. You can get a flat tire. It makes you sweat; especially bad if biking to social event, work, school, etc.

Most bikes don't have a roof in case of rain.

You can't bring your family with you, unless they have bikes of their own.

Helmet and/or wind will oftentimes mess up a good hairdo. You can crash and get hurt/dead.

• 
• 1 answer

I think it's due to a change in atmospheric pressure; if you go up or down the density of the air around varies. As you fall closer to the Earth's surface the density of the air increases (probably due to gravity). I think that the pressure of the air inside your ears should be equal to the pressure of the air surrounding you. Your ears should naturally adjust the pressure inside your head to account for any vertical movement, however too much vertical movement will be too much for your ears to change pressure levels without quickly evacuating air (which gives the popping sensation). You ears would most likely pop when you are in a helicopter or plane, also scuba divers employ measures to deliberately pop their ears as they descend (as water is a lot more pressured than air). You should notice that just before your ear pops, the quality of sound input will be poor, this is due to the bubble of air. Air can be evacuated through your nose. This can explain why you get ear aches when you have a cold. Ear popping can often relieve pain in your ear in such incidents. You can deliberately pop your ears by taking in a deep breath and closing your mouth, then pinch your nose with your finger and thumb and try to blow out all the air in your lungs through your nose (air shouldn't escape if you are holding your nose properly), the resulting density of air in your head will force your ear to pop. This is the trick divers use.

• 
• 1 answer

You can put a supercharger on any engine. All a supercharger is, is an air compressor that forces air into the engine. If you can find a compressor small enough and figure out a why to hook it up, then you will be good to go.

• 
• 1 answer

Throughout history, racing has been about cheating. In the highest circles where tech inspections are strict cheating is less fluent - IRL, F1, etc. - but it still takes place.

However, we aren't talking about the highest circles, we are talking about circle track which is all about cheating and getting away with it - if you aren't cheating you aren't going to win or even finish mid pack.

Here are the most popular cheats:

- Make aftermarkt parts look stock

- Tire size matters. Purchasing wider tires and rebadging them as a smaller size, running a shorter/taller tire/rim for gearing reasons, etc.

- Brake bias, in classes that do not allow brake proportioning valves. Stock, 70% of your braking force is on the front tires which just causes the nose of the car to push on a dirt track. *Partially* blocking the front brake lines with a BB will help this. Running a stock brake proportioning valve from a 4 wheel disc brake car on the same chassis car equipped with rear drums will bias braking toward the rear. Cutting away part of the front brake pad so there is less braking force on the front wheels also works.

- Check out Davis Technologies traction control. Pricey, but proven.

- Corner weighting. You can do really crazy things like moving engine position in classes where shock/spring tuning is allowed.

- Revalving shocks in classes that do not allow suspension modifications. A lot of the OE shocks can be cut open and re-valved if you are crafty.

- Torque converters. Check out TCI's "stock appearing direct drive" torque converter, it's a light weight fluidless unit that fits inside a stock converter's housing. They were made EXPRESSLY for circle track cheating. Less drivetrain loss = more power to the ground.

- Lightweight rotating assembly ($$$), primarily crankshaft/flywheel/torque converter.

- Pertronix makes some Ford and GM ignition modules that charge the coil with a higher voltage to increase spark intensity. Most modern vehicles don't need ignition system upgrades, but if you're still fooling around with pre-90s iron it's a good idea.

- Mix your gas with 20-25% nitropropane. It's undetectable unlike other solutions.

Hope this helps!

"I'm going to sit here and lie to you - I'd never cheat" - Robert Yates

"I always told my guys, 'Cheat neat and you'll get by with a bunch of stuff.' I don't particularly tell my guys to cheat. I just tell them not to get caught." - Richard Petty

"There's a difference in cheating and creating. I was creating." - Junior Johnson

"Over half the 1970 NASCAR rulebook was dedicated to me" - Smokey Yunick

"I know they are cheating because I am cheating and they're beating me." - Richard Petty

• 
• 1 answer

i think you should watch cartoon network on t.v more often

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

I would perfer a Honda CRF 50 there a very great 50cc training bike

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

No it's not...You need to adjust your idle on the carb or it may need cleaned.

• 
• 1 answer

dirt bikes are not a "street legal vehicle", and it is legal for a 13 yr old to ride it off-road

• 
• 1 answer

clooose but yz 85 off start and 230 on long run

• 
• 1 answer

symbol SPY

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

Most do not have a governor. If you are talking about a mini bike go to youtube and type in preparing a box stock engine. They do it on video. There are four videos 1-4 that go over race prepping a 6.5hp engine for go kart racing. These are the same engines as used in Baja Heat, Warrior etc. If you have a 3hp minibike they have the same governor set up. You will take your max revs from 3600 to 6000rpm a big increase.

• 
• 1 answer

The driver

• 
• 1 answer

Yes you can put on a 110cc bike engine on a 50cc bike and if there is any modification work then just take it to a local bike repair shop.