Dodge Charger

look in your owners manual and it should tell you.

Push the button by your left knee.

It is about 446 cid

420 lb ft

135 mph

The 2006 Dodge Charger comes with 2 available engines, the V6(found in Stratus models of the same year) and the upgraded V8-Hemi motor. Aside from the car's ability to adapt to regular driving conditions, allowing the cars computer to "self tune" the engine as needed, the average tune up session should be between 15-20,000 miles. This included inspecting and replacing the spark plugs, wires, and ignition pack. Bosch, Autolite, Champion and AC Delco all design plugs for the Charger, although some brands are harder to find than others. Most of the better plugs require no gapping, so you can simply drop and turn each new plug and your done. Read your owners manual to find out when a tune-up is required, most new cars should be tuned-up at 100,000 miles.

to compete with the GM and ford offerings back in the day.

And never won except in dragsters, straight line folly

Under the carpet in the right rear of the trunk.

16...just changed mine....real easy....just remove the coil packs and both spark plugs

are below...you'll need a fairly long extension to get them out...but it's pretty easy

good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

pretty big heavy engine with most of the weight being in the heads.

at least 19 gal.

The maximum towing capacity of the 2009 Dodge Charger is 2000 lbs..

If the engine has seized, then it's pretty much done for. Transmission fluid, or engine oil, will do nothing to solve that. Transmission fluid goes in the transmission - which if that is seized, again - you're in trouble. The only way to get around replacement is to disassemble the seized component (engine, tranny, whatever) and replace the seized components and anything else that was damaged as a result of the seizing. sorry.

1984-1993

You can view the owners manaul at the link below ( the dodge website)

I'm going to tell you only one way, since the typical front-end shop will use the "other way" in the interest of time. The "other way" (using a pickle fork) will trash the boots and usually bugger the tapered shaft. They're going to throw them away anyway.

First, a warning: Back off the torsion bar adjusters before going any further! There's one on each side under the lower control arm. Make sure they're loose in their mounting slots so that no tension remains on the front end components. The car-friendly way:

# Remove brake drum, caliper, and/or rotor. On a drum brake car, you don't need to worry about removing the brake line from the cylinder, or the cylinder from the backing plate. They will all come off as an assembly in the next step.

# Remove the two large bolts from the lower ball joint. Note how these bolts sandwich brake components together so you can reassemble them in the correct order later. # Remove the lower ball joint's cotter pin from the tapered shaft, and back the nut off 2-3 turns. Do not fully remove the nut at this point. Place the proper puller over the spindle and press the tapered shaft out. Make sure to get one of the small, thick-armed puller designed especially for this. Using the typical hinged "gear puller" will cause you a lot of grief. Believe me; it's worth it to get the correct puller! Obviously, you'll need to remove the nut before you can go any further. I leave the nut on during this operation to avoid damaging the threads while using the puller. This will completely separate the lower ball joint from the car. # Pull the upper tapered shaft the same as you did with the lower ball joint.

# Next is the special socket that fits over the upper ball joint. The ball joints have very shallow threads formed into their sides that pull them into the control arms, so they're unscrewed just like a huge, short bolt. Don't try it with slip-joint pliers; you'll need at least a 1/2" breaker bar on the correct socket. They're tight! There's two different sized sockets to cover all manner of Mopar. I believe it's the smaller for earlier "A" bodies (through '72?), then the larger fits everything else. I found both of mine in a used tool shop for cheap, because nobody knew what they were! It's a Chevy world around my place...

Anything from a better air filter to a less restrictive exhaust can help add horsepower. There are also chips and power programmers that are available on the open market, and turbo- and super-chargers.

Not without modification

The 2012 Dodge Charger has double overhead cam (DOHC).

Most experts agree that for a stock engine, the cheap gas will work just fine.

If you were to use a high-performance engine, or tune your engine, then you would need to use the new recommended octane to ensure no damage, etc.

Look in your owners manual and it should tell you.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

The 727 torqueflight automatic tranny is the only tranny to hold up to the 440 torque if your talking automatics.

No, just one and it is in the trunk.