Electrical Troubleshooting

There are many types of motors used in industrial applications. The most common would probably be a DC motor, as the motor's speed is easily controllable and well suited for production processes.

Well, as far as I know, there is no 'gas' A/C. The A/C will be electric, regardless of the type of heat used. Whether electric heat or gas heat would be more economical is really dependent on your electric and gas utility rates and the efficiency of the appliances involved.

This is a very broad subject. It is best to find the instruction manual that is printed for the multimeter and study it while the meter is in front of you. This way you become familiar with the multiple operations.

http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/fa4a-6pd.pdf

kVA stands for Kilo(means a thousand) Volt Amperes. It's a kind of capacity rating for how much electrical power something can either deliver or needs.

It sounds like the rotating tub has ceased and the motor is still trying to rotate the tub. The drive belt is spinning on the drive motor's pulley and creating heat and the burning smell. Don't try and use the washer any more until the tub bearing or its gearbox has been repaired. The drive belt rubbing on the pulley can generate enough heat that the belt might combust into flames.

you put the trans fluid in the same spot where you take out the dip stick to check the levels,with a long funnel..ask auto store for one..........

Just means generated by water power can be found in powerplants and factories

It could! If wired in series in a way that is commonly done, linking receptacles on a common circuit, this especially true with GFCI outlets, allowing one GFCI to protect all outlets down stream. However, it would be unusual to find another type of device wired in this way.

Regular receptacles have two screws on each side for the hot and neutral wires. A daisy chain of sorts is created when both blacks from two romex cables are connected to the two screws, and this continues down the wall to the next receptacle. Some problem with the receptacle or the wiring could cause a loss of power (or neutral) down the line. One that is obscure to the novice is the break -off tab near the screws. This is used when there is a switch controlling one of the out lets and the other is available as a standard outlet. If such an altered outlet is being reused, or one that some how was broken off, the two screws are no longer connected, and will not make the daisy chain as planned.

It is common practice that circuit is provided to an area in new construction, and by code only seven or sometimes eight devices are allowed to be connected. Most often this a room light, some receptacles in that room and possibly receptacles in a wall common to another room. Depending on the routing of the "home run"...the wire from the breaker and the distribution panel... this could be any junction box that is part of this circuit. Problems here can affect any other part! Considering the possibilities of remodeling, upgrading to ceiling fan ...it is hard to tell. If necessary you may have to figure out witch box has the "home run" feed, disconnecting all there and reconstructing the circuits until the problem is isolated.

There are no insides of a star delta starter. The components consist of two three phase contactors joined on a common back plate with a mechanical interlock between them so as to prevent both contactors being able to pull in at the same time.

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There are two ways of wiring three phase electric, one is star and one is delta. You have to know which type to use because Delta will give you three time the power of the same power source connected in a star formation. So you could burn the coils on the motor out.

Also as well as the pattern (star or delta) there is the sequence and if this is wrong then the motor will go backwards.

You would really need to get someone qualified to look at it. Its not something that instructions can be given for over the internet unless you can say the make and model of both the generator and motor, then someone might be able to help you.

See related links

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Follow the instructions on Youtube.

A multimeter is an instrument used to check for AC or DC voltages, resistance and continuity of electrical components, and small amounts of current in circuits. This instrument will let you check to see if there is voltage present on a circuit.

On the inside of the heater cover, and within the documentation shipped with the heater, there should be a diagram of the control circuit. These heaters will not operate if the pump is off (pressure switch), if the "fireman" switch is off (a switch generally inside the pump timer that disables the heater about 15 minutes prior to turning off the pump), nor if both of two additional high temperature limit switches are activated (models will vary). The fact that the pilot is lit indicates that the pilot generator is OK. If you can turn the burner on by shorting the control circuit manually (using a jumper wire) the problem is in on of the safety limit switches, or in the thermostat itself. Good Hunting!

http://www.poolcenter.com/parts_heaters_laars_xe_pg1.htm

A pilot generator may have enough power to operate the pilot ,however not be sufficient to operate the main valve as well, this is quite common.

The way I test a millivolt system of any type is I have a AA battery holder from RadioShack with a positive and negative lead, I disconnect the pilot generators 2 leads and replace them with the AA batterys. The battery is 1.5v it wont hurt though, but if the gas valve wont open and you do get voltage to the gas valve terminals for the main valve, the valve is either bad or stuck, an amp draw will tell you if its trying to work or shorted perhaps if excessive.

There are a limit and on off and thermostat on this unit I believe as well .

The current in each resistor in a series circuit is the same. Kirchoff's Current Law states that the sum of the currents entering a node must add up to zero. The connection between two resistors in a series circuit is a node. The current entering the node from one resistor is equal to the current leaving the node into the next resistor.

Heaters use a lot of power and can easily exceed the capacity of an already loaded circuit. Anything with a motor or fan will use more power when starting up than after it is already running. If the circuit breaker or fuse is tripping when you plug in or turn on the heater, then you may have too many things on that circuit. Look at every electrical device on the circuit and add up the total watts of each one (it's listed somewhere on each, usually the back or bottom). Divide the total wattage by 120 to get the total amperage needed on that circuit. The fuse or circuit breaker should be rated for at least as many amps needed or it will trip when the total is exceeded. You may have to find another place to plug the heater in or have a circuit added to handle the extra load.

DON'T replace the fuse or circuit breaker with one rated for a higher load, the wiring may not be able to handle it and you could start a fire within the walls or attic. (Using extension cords for heaters in a house is a bad idea because the cord can overheat and start a fire.) If you aren't comfortable with this, find someone that knows what they are doing or hire a licensed electrician.

Only if you want very dim orange light instead of white light, as the 240 volt bulb will operate at only one quarter its power rating when operated at 120 volts. But its life will be greatly increased.

The following faults occur in transformer.

1. Temperature rise in winding

2. Temperature rise in oil

3. Overload

4. Insulation failure in oil

5. Earth fault

6. Short circuit

7. Failure of tap changing.

8. Open circuit

Assuming both batteries are alike in voltage, and preferably current:

For twelve volts, connect the negative to the positive of the other. That will be a series connection, and then use the open negative and positive connections for 12 volt operation.

For 6 volts, but twice the power, connect the positive to the positive and the negative to negative, and use this combination for six volt operation but twice the available current.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER connect two batteries together with one's positive to the other's negative and the negative to the other's positive. Results? BOOOM!!!!! (And I'm not joking.)

I assume you have something like a V12 with two banks of 6 cylinders each fed with a separate coil. I suggest you pull the lead off one of the plugs (with the engine off, naturally) and push a big nail inside the plug lead. Hold the end of the lead between two pieces of wood to insulate it and start her up. Point the nail as close to the spark plug as you can without touching it (or to any clean point on the engine block, like a bolt head you have sanded shiny) and see if you get a rhythmic spark (or any spark at all). No spark = no electicity. It doesn't actually prove the COIL is faulty because it might be that the coil is not getting any electricity supplied to it, but it's a start.