Electrical Troubleshooting

I would say that probably the fuse holder is loose, this would cause a voltage drop and result in heating of the fuse. Replace the fuse holder.

25 amps and it should be run through a contactor and motor over load set,you should set the over load to 5% above the motors full load current.And not your breaker should be a d curve type with 6ka rating.

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Using a megger you check from either positive or nuetral to ground. The megger should read open (usually OL). It doesnt matter which connection you choose as long as one is ground. If the megger shows anything other than open the windings are bad.

An electrical current continually seeks a pathway to ground.

Noisy operation of a motor is usually caused by the motor's bearings. Use an instrument that can check the temperature of the bearings. If they are hotter than the surrounding temperature of the motor's frame then change them out for new ones. New bearings should quiet the motor.

The bare conductor is about 1.05 lb per foot. Insulated wire weight varies by type of insulation.

The clicking noise you are hearing could be the heater is overloading the breaker and it is on the verge of tripping

This could be caused by the heater being to large for the circuit. Check the amperage rating on the heater and the rating on the breaker

It also cold be the circuit breaker is going bad and needs to be replaced by a qualified electrician

These are 2 possible answers you also could have a bad (loose) electrical connection some where in the circuit

I assume you have a 30 amp two pole 220 volts breaker. Check the voltage source. If the source voltage is 220V, but out let voltage is 120 then the breaker must be faulty, a high resistance or partial open circuit could have caused the reduced voltage at the breaker outlet.

A generator needs to have residual magnetism in its field coils to start the generation of electricity. A generator that has not been run in a long time will loose this magnetism. Because the field voltage is a DC supply, a battery across the field wiring will energize the coils instantaneously. Doing this several times will cause sparking when the contact to the battery is broken, hence the flash. This intermittent energizing and de-energizing will bring the residual magnetism back into the field coils. When the generator is started, the voltage output should rise to its normal level. If it does the magnetizing of the field coils to bring back the residual magnetism will have worked.

An inverter is designed to provide an AC voltage from a battery or DC supply. The AC voltage provided varies in waveform makeup from a square wave to a true sine wave. In between the two extremes are the multi step devices that have as many steps in their modified sine wave as they have switching devices needed to provide each step. Multi step inverters with as many as 48 steps have been manufactured to produce a relatively clean AC waveform.

the bms system is working through the logic created and controlled by the controller and the sensors based on the return air sensor in hvac bms system

Did The 1997 Chevy Lumina have a electronic fuel relay shut off button if say you ran out of gas would that button kick off if so how do I switch that back on so my car will run.

The voltage output is controlled by the voltage regulator. Check to see if you are getting a DC field voltage. On the voltage regulator there are terminals to different pieces of equipment on the machine. Look for the terminals that are designated F1 and F2. These should have a DC voltage on them. Also look for a potentiometer that controls the field voltage. Turn it one way and the voltage will go down and turned the other way the voltage will go up. Make sure that this potentiometer is in the correct position to allow voltage to the field coils.

I guess that "MW" means mega-watts so therfore 1.3 MW is the amount of energy produced by the power plant.

The black wire is the hot wire through which the electrical current flows to the appliance. The left over voltage which is usually zero flows back to the main circuit panel through the white neutral wire where it flows to ground.

2.2 lbs per ft

The centre of the (secondary of the) centre tapped transformer is zero volts because that is the point in the circuit on which you based your measurement. If you were to connect the reference meter lead to the end of the winding, then the centre tap would have voltage on it. Its all a matter of perspective, i.e. reference.

It also happens that the centre tap is usually grounded and, since you usually connect the meter's reference lead to ground, if you connect the meter's reading lead to the same point, you would logically expect there to be a zero volts differential. Its the same as connecting the two leads together.

When the terminals of a capacitor are connected together, the capacitor will discharge, returning to a zero potential state.

Capacitors resist voltage change, meaning that if the capacitor is in a circuit that has zero voltage potential, the capacitor will eventually achieve zero potential. If the capacitor is in a circuit that has a 5 volt potential, the capacitor will seek and attempt to maintain that 5 volt potential (provided that the capacitor is rated at 5 volts or more).

In an AC circuit, the capacitor will tend to smooth out the sin wave of the current, resisting change in both directions.

In a DC power supply circuit, a capacitor will tend to reduce the voltage "ripple", and if the circuit is designed properly, will provide a smooth DC voltage.

Shorting the terminals of a capacitor is effectively what often happens in many circuits; it's not a problem.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-phase_electric_power

Click on this link from Wikipedia. It gives an excellent description of three phase power.

You will have a 12 Volt source with double the charge capacity.

Read the label to find out how many ampere-hours worth of charge the battery can store.

If it says "60 ampere-hours" then, if it is in good condition, it should be able to deliver a current of near to 60 amps for 1 hour or 30 amps for 2 hours or 1 amp for 60 hours, etc.

The condition of any battery will deteriorate over time: depending on its original quality and the kind of use it has been subjected-to. Like most things in life, the more you pay for something, the better quality you will get, you only get what you pay for! If it is subjected to very heavy discharges, such as often having to crank a very cold car engine for several minutes - which could take 600 amps on a big engine - then its normal life span could be severely reduced.

So, depending on its original quality, after an initial period of from 3 to 5 years, you must expect a battery's ampere-hour capacity to reduce more and more until eventually the battery will not hold any useful charge any more and it will have to be replaced.

It depends what it's for. If it's for power-factor improvement, then it is normally connected in parallel with the load.

To limit the rate at which the charge is put into the battery in order to prevent overheating, boil-out of the water in the acid electrolyte, and eventually ruining the battery.