GMC Yukon

I pried the little triangular panel off first. Next lift up the rear side of the switch panel ( the end toward the opening of the door) and rotate that off. Remove the plug clips (this takes some sqeezing and rocking). Pry off the little panel around the door handle with a screw driver. Now the fun part. Lift up on the entire door panel which will disengage two large plastic latches. The panel is now loose. Detatch the curtisy light wire and the speaker wire. The panel can now be removed. I didnt need any special tools but a screwdriver blade was helpful. I havent put it back on yet so dont know anything specific about that and will try to reverse the above steps.

Trouble code P1404 means:Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve closed position performance

Turn your key on-off-on-off-on and count the blinks from the check engine light... The First number will blink with short pauses between the blinks, then a longer pause, then the second number will blink... All of those Chryslers end with code 55 or if you have no codes you will only have code 55... So if the check engine light blinks 5 times, then a pause, then 5 times; that's code 55 which means, "end of message" or no codes... If it blinked 3 times then a long pause then 1 time, it would be code 31... You can easier check on the internet for the code definitions for a Chrysler... Now if you have codes, then fix them first... If you have no codes or a code that has to do with the EGR valve... Then you may need an EGR position sensor or a new EGR valve... somtimes EGR valves will trigger a MAP sensor code as well... It's not too hard to change it if your pretty handy... I had the same problem with my 1993 minivan with a 3.3 engine and it ended up being the EGR valve after I changed a bunch of other stuff... I went to the junkyard for mine ($20) as a new one is around $160.

The curb weight of the 2013 GMC Yukon-XL is 5674 lbs..

The 2015 GMC Yukon has a 6-speed shiftable automatic.

body module wont reconize new window module you have to program bcm to read new switch On some vehicles if you just operate everything (complete cycle) from the drivers side then everything will work as intended. sometimes you have to work the pass side window (complete cycle) befor the pass window will work with auto setting. also make sure the window lock out button on drivers switch wasn't turned on by mistake.

Towards the rear driver's side tire. The fuel pump is in the gas tank. The tank has to be lowered to get to the pump.

When you open the doors there is a lever on the door itself that you can switch up or down depending on if you want to engage or disengage the child safety locks. There should be a sticker indicating which way to lock-unlock.

location right bank knock sensor 2003 5.3 z71

its a 15 amp under hood in fuse box same fuse powers up plug for code reader

I just finished replacing the one in my wife's 2001 silverado. First, make sure the window is all of the way up. Next, secure the window at the top with tape, so that it will not slide down when you take out the window regulator. Now the fun part…you have to remove the door inner panel (that's the part with the arm rest on it…YES THE WHOLE THING. To get it off, first remove the small triangular trim piece on the inside of the door opposite of the side view mirror. Pry very carefully and it should come off without any major damage (it is installed with spring clips) Next, pop the window control panel off of the door inner panel (it also has the lock & mirror buttons on it) this will expose the 3rd screw that needs to be removed prior to removing the door inner panel. Next, remove the 3 screws that secure the door inner panel there will be one near the arm rest. One on the bottom of the door inner panel, and the one under the window control panel. Next remove the trim panel that goes around the interior door handle and "work" it off of the door handle. Now, remove the small trim piece & handle for the interior door lock (just pry gently with a flat bladed screw driver.) Now you should be able to remove the door inner panel. Firmly lift up on the arm rest and the door inner panel should lift up about 1" letting you to pull the door inner panel away from the door. At this point you will have to unplug the door speakers & window controls as well as the courtesy light at the bottom of the door. Next, peel the plastic membrane off of the door to expose the window regulator. You should be able to loosen the screws that compress the window pads (they will be at the bottom of the window glass) After loosening the bolts you can remove the old window regulator…I think there is 5 screws total. On my wife's truck, the replacement regulator did not come with the motor, so I had to transfer it to the new window regulator (there was a "shipping" plastic piece on the new one that had to be removed before I could transplant the old motor onto it). At this point you can start the re-assembly process. Basically, put the new window regulator back where the old one came out. There will be 2 notches near the top of the door where the new/old one "hooks" into the door. This should locate the window regulator properly and allow you to START tightening the screws. Do not tighten them until all of them are in place. Next plug in the window control panel and run the window regulator up until the window glass is sitting at the bottom notch of the "pads" on the window regulator. Snug the screws on the pads DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN OR YOU WILL BREAK THE GLASS. Remove the tape at the top of the window and try it out a few times to make sure there is not anything binding and the window goes up & down ok. Now Re assemble the door… I'm not the greatest mechanic…and I had the whole job done in about 1-1/2 hours. If I had to do it again…I could do the whole job in about 30 min. Biggest thing is to not force anything. these trim pieces will break easily if you muscle them too much. Tools needed: 10mm Deep well ¼" drive 8mm deep well ¼" drive 6mm deep well ¼" drive 5/16" socket ¼" drive (for the window regulator motor screws…not metric???) average size flat blade screw driver duct tape (to hold the window up & to re-secure the plastic membrane inside the door) This writer did a great job explaining the process, and it enabled me to replace both door window regulators on my 2001 Silverado, with only a few bad words being uttered. There are a kajillion web listings for replacement window regulators, and a lot of comments from people who bought them saying they didn't last any time at all, and that most have no parts warranty. I bought the replacement regulators, with motors, made by Dorman. They were easy to install, work great, and have a limited lifetime warranty. I bought 'em from Amazon for less than $130 for the pair, with free shipping; they arrived in 2 days.

I wanted to do the same with my 2005 f-150, but couldn't find any real answers from anybody at a garage or dealership. I got lucky with my f-150, only because the signal wire from the ECM to the driver's door lock was a separate wire from the rest of the bunch. So I took apart my drivers door, jammed a test light in each and every wire terminal on the harness at the window controls, and drove around. Unlock the doors at a stop, then put the trans in gear and start rolling. They should lock around 5 or 10 mph. When they lock, your test light will light up when you are on the right terminal, showing you the signal wire. When I did that, I just cut the wire. Problem solved. But your vehicle might be different. Try it out and see. Your signal wire might be the same as another wire, so cutting it might effect some other window function all together. GOOD LUCK.

Go to "Mange My Life" and enter your model number. Your manual will come up.

Coolant sensors can cause a lot of various problems. The ECM relies on the coolant sensor for temperature readings. This is so that it can adjust the timing, fuel, and other related systems. But without knowing more I couldn't say that it is your problem.

The 2012 GMC Yukon-XL has 39.5 in. of rear leg room.

Under the radio.

The gas tank on the 2008 GMC Yukon holds 26 gal..

The 2002 GMC Yukon-XL has 45.7 cu.ft. of cargo capacity with all of its seats in place.

Look for manual in library.

Your local wrecking yard should have a "Hollander" interchange manual; this info will be located there.

ac delco platinums

The 2007 GMC Yukon is 16 ft. 10 in. (202 in.) long.

Factory says----5W30 in the winter time. Be sure to use A/C delco oil filter.

you dont nid to change it is the same a/c is controled by the front control turn front on and turn rear on