Honda Prelude SI

Hi I had this problem. make sure your water level in the radiator is full,because there is a sensor kelvin

The thermostat is located in the engine compartment on the passenger's side near the distributor cap. The thermostat is located in a cylindrical housing containing three or four wired sensors. The housing is connected to the cylinder head to the left of (behind) the distributor (looking in from passenger's side). There is a 1-1/4" black hose going from the end of the thermostat housing (housing cover) to the upper radiator. That is the easiest indicator to locate the thermostat housing. The labor time is about an 90 minutes if all goes well. The housing cover can be removed with the hose attached by removing the two hex bolts with a #10 socket. I broke a "stuck" bolt on this housing trying to get it out. NEVER use a drill-like device called an "E-Z out" because they don't work. I had it so botched up, I had to buy a whole new housing ($80) just because the last guy didn't coat the screw threads with thread sealant. Believe me, use thread sealant. 1.)Buy a new thermostat (~$30) before starting and notice only one side has a spring. 2.)Buy a new "upper" radiator hose/hose clamps (~$20). (Optional-it's pretty easy and no leaks this way.) 3.)RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (ie. Permatex Item # 22071) 4.)Anti-seize Lubricant (ie. Permatex Item # 81343) 5.)Penetrating oil to loosen screws. I noticed that the aftermarket thermostats have a smaller hole for coolant to pass through than the original/dealer "stats" do. So I bought an original equipment thermostat (~$45) because I HATE temperature problems -- they affect everything from the engine to the tranny to the A/C. But it's definitely OK to go to Kragen or Autozone if you want. Before beginning, spray the thermostat-cover bolts with penetrating oil about an hour before starting the project. Best if you can spray them just after the engine is turned off and they're still hot/warm so the penetrant will work better. Next, you MUST drain some of the coolant first or you'll have a BIG MESS. After you drain some of the coolant (1/2 gal./couple of qts.), put some rags under the thermostat-cover/hose junction and remove the two bolts. Pull the housing cover off. After the housing-cover/hose assembly is off, the thermostat is easily seen -- hopefully you bought a replacement "stat" before starting so you know what to look for. You'll see the "pointy side" sticking out and you just pull on that and the stat will come out -- look out 'cause there will be some coolant leaking out from behind the thermostat when you remove it (that's why you stuff some rags underneath the work area). Carefully scrape the ridge the "stat" sits in to remove any deposits interfering with the new "stat's" ability to seat correctly. Wipe out and clean the area. Install the new thermostat with the spring side in and the pointy side out towards the radiator hose. Clean off the thermostat-cover of old gasket material and apply the RTV Silicone to the interface area of the thermostat-cover. Install the housing cover/hose assembly with the two bolts treated with thread sealant (i.e. anti-seize lube). Don't crank the screws down hard (10 ft-lbs.) and refill the radiator. Check for leaks. If you decide to change the upper radiator hose before refilling, the hoses can be a little stubborn as they get stuck on the metal nipples. You may have to twist/rotate the hose back and forth with a large pliers (gently -- don't tear up the rubber hose) to loosen it and then you can pull it off. Use new hose clamps and put them on the new hose before sliding the hose over the radiator or thermostat-cover nipple. I like to put a THIN FILM of multi-purpose grease on the nipples to prevent the hose sticking and it's easier to slide on. The hose clamps should be not be located on top of the nipple's "shoulder". Rather, the clamps should be positioned just behind the nipple's shoulder to get a leak-resistant grip on the nipple. Don't overtighten the clamps (if the clamp can't be rotated, it's about right) -- tighten later when the hose is hot, if leaking. The hose's fit and the clamp are enough to prevent leaks. You'll know the thermostat is working properly by checking the upper radiator hose after the engine is running about ten minutes. The radiator fan usually comes on twice during this period. The thermostat will open when the engine coolant is getting hot (~135F) and the thermostat will allow coolant to flow into the radiator through the upper hose. You'll feel the hose get hot (careful). This also happens to be the way to check if the thermostat is not working properly. Sometimes a defective thermostat will allow water all the time (engine takes a long time to warm up) OR it never opens and the hose is cool and the engine stays hot.

Due to unforseen consequences, you should really let a professional do your brakes. If you still insist, then, You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

As another poster mentioned, the same ones from a 94 explorer worked but with the Amp you need to hook the dk blue wire on the 8x1 plug into the blue/white wire coming out of your new stereo. Otherwise you get no sound. Its usually labeled remote wire.I would not do this without a harness adapter kit like a stingpro F-5511 or a merta 5511. Save you tons of work for the $10 you spend. Radio 12v lt. green/yellow + radio harness Radio Ground black or black/lt. green - radio harness Radio Ignition yellow/black + radio harness Radio Illumination lt. blue/red (dimmer) + radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on dk. blue + radio harness Power Antenna N/A LF Speaker +/- orange/lt. grn - lt. blue/wht +,- radio harness or amplifier RF Speaker +/- white/lt. grn - dk. green/org +,- radio harness or amplifier LR Speaker +/- pink/lt. green - tan/yellow +,- radio harness or amplifier RR Speaker +/- orange/red - black/white +,- radio harness or amplifier

my 1988 4ws Honda prelude idles low at 600 rpm

Provided the '97 Prelude is a base model, then yes it is possible to swap in an H22a variant. The Prelude Type SH motor is different as the ATTS unit is connected to the motor. So, the only compatible H22a motors would be one from another Type SH, or the JDM Honda Prelude Type S motor.

http://importnut.net/header.htm

a introduction music before the singing

4ws yes, 2ws I believe does as well.

the s has a sohc 8v engine with 133 bhp and the si is dohc 158hp with 156lb/ft prob afew extra electrics in the si i would think too

On a manual transmission there should be a flush plug that will directly accept a1/2" ratchet less the socket. Remove this to check manual transmission fluid and to add it.

This plug can usually be found on the passenger side of the transmission just being the tire.

It does not.

160 hp stock

Somewhere around 500$ if done at a garage.

You need to remove the exhaust system which is below the oil pan. Once the exhaust is removed, you have to remove engine brace which will be the way. Also, you have to remove one transmission bolt to get the dust cover off There are 10- threaded bolt/screw (phillips #2), 2- 10mm bolts in front of pan and two #10 nuts in the rear. You have to remove the dust cover for the flywheel to access the 10mm nuts. The transmission and engine mount makes it difficult to remove the two nuts but with patience, they can be removed. The oil pan does not use a felt gasket but silicone gasket maker. Use the black Permtex.

hey hey

Ignition timing, timing belt/chain, distributor cap... who knows without looking at it?

It has a transaxle, there is no separate differential fluid.

Behind the timing belt cover

Febraury 31st, 1892.

try a new hazard switch. the power runs through this switch, and sounds as if it is burnt. Good luck.

The H22 engine is aluminum, with steel Cylinder sleeves... The steel they used is too hard (and,or) the piston rings are a softer steel, so after wear and tear (Especially at higher RPM's) , The rings wear down too much and allow oil to pass through as engine is running... Oil lost is really going into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust pipe. I recently bought a 1998, with 108,000mi. and It loses a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. This is a pretty normal issue with this car and engine, especially if not "well-maintained".

85 Lude, old school cable clutch... No hydraulics (fluid)