Household Hints

I would recommend commercial grade vinyl such as Amtico. It is nothing like the vinyl from a roll so give it a chance be before crossing it off the list. It is very easy to clean. extremely durable and will survive a flood. It is laid in pieces (either planks or tile depending which design you choose) and glued down.

Other choices that come into play if you are not concerned about flooding are: engineered flooring, carpet, porcelain tile and cork. I would stay away from the cork if you have young children.

Yes. The best dyes will be specifically made for wool (rather than the ones for the washer which will give a very pale color) but the coat will shrink as the process includes much heating.

Plug it into a properly grounded receptacle if it has a ground prong. Otherwise, if it has only a two-prong plug, it is a design flaw and you will need to remember to discharge it, before you touch it, and yourself, before touching doorknobs after running it. You can carry a key or other piece of metal around with you to do this. I believe I'd take it back to the store and buy a different one.

you should go to a specialty glass shop.

Craigslist.org under free category, Freecycle.org

variable speed drill

No. The correct answer is: Variable Speed Reversing, meaning it has a switch that lets you run the drill clockwise or counterclockwise, at any speed from 0 RPM to the maximum rated speed for the drill in question.

because of the coldness

There are very few that can be reversed.

Most of those that can will require that you completely remove the unit, frame and all, to get at the fasteners securing the stationary side.

Then you're going to have to deal with the issue that the latch is now on the wrong side.

The short answer is no

The right answer (for most doors) is yes.

Most aluminum doors made after the early 60s can be reversed.

The only ones that can not are the ones where the left and right side jambs are different.

I can only think of one aluminum door that has the stationary panel made as part of the frame. All steel doors (in my experience) and most Vinyl and wood doors are made that way.

(I would call that different)

Yes, Both panels need to be removed (Not the frame)

Most handles lock onto a strike that can be moved to the opposite side.

Others lock to part of the jamb.

On some doors, especially 8 footers, the interlocks (The parts that come together in the center of the door to seal the middle) must be switched and flipped upside down. Usually mortised locks must be removed from the frame and flipped right side up.

On others, the rollers need to be switched from the bottom to the top and both doors flipped upside down.

The handle must be removed and reversed.

There are some designs that require modifying or reversing weatherstripping and/or other parts.

Some Vinyl doors are also reversible with similar issues.

Older steel doors and most vinyl doors are made with the stationary panel as part of the frame. These cannot be reversed.

Yes it will require some effort, but I do it fairly often.

This is not something to jump into without a lot of thinking and planning.

There are hundreds of different models and I don't pretend to know them all.

For most people I would recommend finding a pro, (thepatiodoorguy.com) but if you feel like giving it a shot, just don't cut anything until you're sure. You can always put it back if you don't cut it or break it.

If you have waited to long and there's a buildup of soap scum and hard water residue, you may need to repeat a couple of times to get to the bottom of it, especially if the shower floor is made of those small textured tiles. Start with a good stiff scrub brush (be sure it's large enough to cover some ground and test the grip in the store before buying; small brushes and brushes that don't fit your hand with cause fatigue before long) and a cleaner designed for soap scum and hard water buildup. Most of them work pretty good but avoid the foamy kind. I alternate CLR and Tilex. First go around, use the cleaning liquid straight. Just scrub until you see some effect or until you run out of steam. It may take only one try or several.

Once the buildup is defeated, a spray cleaner designed for the job will keep it up. I personally use a large sponge designed for car washing. Be sure that the cleaner label says that it's OK for tile, some chemicals will deteriorate the grout.

I once cleaned my tile shower stall floor regularly with a powdered cleanser and a brush. It really worked well until one day I had to remove the drain cover to see what was blocking the drainage. There was a cleanser buildup in the pipe that had formed a 'cement' coating so thick that the drainage was reduced to about a half inch hole. So, avoid using powdered cleanser regularly, it's not good for the shiny tile anyway.

Tile and grout usually needs a lot of agitation to remove embedded soils. Try using a grout brush and any kind of tile cleaner.

Try using conditioner.

Buying it is cheaper than wasting time making it.

For the same reason they liked Almond and Avocado in the 70`s... It`s what`s in. Now...

yes you can use fabric paint let dry then use clear spray so you can wipe off the prints...

They typically just snap on. Hold the cover horizontally and mate the top 2 protrusions (if they aren`t broken off) with the indentations on the stat. Then close the cover and snap the bottom closed. This is just a guideline since you don`t provide the make & model # of your stat.

There are several things you can try: * Use a hair dryer on low setting to soften the adhesive, then try to gently peel the tag from the plastic while still warm. * Hold a warm, damp cloth over the price tag for a few minutes, then try to gently peel the tag off. * There are products made for this purpose, the one I use is "Goo Gone". It removes the price tags and the gummy residue without damaging the plastic. Simply apply some of the Goo Gone directly to the price tag and gently wipe away the tag and residue. Or, you can pour some of the product onto a paper towel or cloth, then gently rub the price tag to remove. After the price tag and gummy residue are cleaned off, wipe the area with a towel dampened with water to remove the cleaner. * If the weather is warm, place the plastic box in the sun, or even in your car for a little while. Since a car builds up as much heat as it does in warm weather, this will help to quickly soften the glue holding the price tag, and you should be able to gently peel the tag off. * Apply a small amount of Vaseline or baby oil, wait a few minutes, then wipe gently. Wash or wipe off any residual Vaseline or baby oil.

No. It is supposed to be sent to a dry cleaner. To be very specific: you can wash it in a washer, but doing so will probably damage it, possibly beyond repair.

It is NOT because the tank is full and no more water can fit. (Obviously). I said it drains each time it is filled (over and over), down to a point and then it does not drain (any farther).

Does anybody know the answer to THAT question? There IS NO TANK. It's on a sewer. No tank. If sounds to me as if there is a blockage somewhere in the drain line and as the sink drains it empties and fills the pipe down to the point of the clog and slows up once the pipe is full. If only one particular fixture (sink) is doing this, then the blockage has to be between that fixture and where it ties into the main sewer line out of the house, and if any other fixtures drain into that line before it reaches the main and are working properly the clog is somewhere before the second line ties in.

Use a floor neutralizer with a PH of 8. Use a mop, just like you were mopping. Do not mix it with a cleaner, though. After mopping with the neutralizer, clean the floor with a neutral cleaner.

Walmart or Fred's stores. They usually are well stocked around the time kids go off to college.

Either the thermostat has been set too low, your hot water heater is not big enough, or your hot water heater has not been installed properly.

What I do is in RED INK write on the envelope "RETURN TO SENDER: NO SUCH PERSON AT THIS ADDRESS"... if that don't work ask your post office.

The flat sheets we sell for king sized beds are 275 x 275cm, this is quite a generous size as they will also fit a Super king size bed. I believe that the standard size for a UK king flat sheet is approx 260 x 270cm, though it does vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Stanley.com?

Try teknuw.com lots of manuals listed.

Old houses are hard to insulate because they were built without insulation in mind and often require major work - like knocking down walls and similar.

Well, if you can't afford to have them professionally dry cleaned then you might try a diluted solution of water and hydrogen peroxide. Three parts water to one part peroxide should do it. Just dab a little on with a rag and gently work it into the fur. Allow to dry completely before trying it again.