Isuzu Trucks

Right next to the oil filter

the line is connected to the carburettor if you have one or to the intake manifold after the throttle valve. The purpose is to connect intake vacuum to the booster.

go to autozone. com .......under the my zone enter your year make and engine ect...... than in the product search box enter ...wiring diagram and a box will pop up on the right hand side of the screen with you vehicle info click the link and choose the diagram you would like to look at

it is located somewhere unser or inside dash panel it is located somewhere unser or inside dash panel

The engine is a 4zd1, 2.3L, 5 speed, rwd, 8 valve.

500,000 miles to 750,000 miles

6 quarts with filter change

No it's just a pump and doesn't need to be timed. The IPR controls the amount of oil pressure that goes into the heads. Just make sure that the gear is messed when installing the new pump. If it's not you will have a crank no start concern. So just replace and you should be good. Hope this helps . Good luck.

you could mabye find a moter adapter for a Chevy v 6 or and of the Isuzu rodeo tropper mabye and the 2 or 4 weel drive Isuzu picups good luck

On the frame ny the tank follow the line can't miss it

The glow plug relay is on the drivers side of the truck in a relay box on the chassis frame behind the drivers side tire.

which module is it?

In the fuel tank. I have a 1985 Chevy S10, 2.8L V6 and the fuel pump is located up on the engine, on the drivers side.

look back by the fuel tank by the frame on the passengers side

If you have a 2.3 or a 2.6 motor, there should just be one oxygen sensor. It will be located on the exhaust manifold. On the driver's side of the motor you should see it down by the firewall. It will have a single wire coming from it.

Well, first off, u need to find out were it goes, and then put the belt on it and then bolt it up and plug (wire) it up and boom, there u go

how do i install a radiator on a 1993 isuzu npr?

0.40mm both int & exh.

www.clubisuzu.com

Try a clutch master cylinder. You have air in the system and unfortunately the pump has trouble priming. I worked at this for a couple of hours bleeding and bleeding and still no pressure, Talked to several factory techs and they knew less than me so this is what I did. I took some fuel line and a 12 volt fuel pump that I had laying around and put the suction end in a quart of brake fluid and ran the pump till the tubing was full, then I loosened the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and pushed the tubing over it. I loosened the line going to the slave cylinder on the master cylinder and ran the pump until all the air was pushed out and tightened the connection and waited to see fluid rising in the reservoir, then I closed the bleeder and shut off the pump. Since my helper left me hours ago I pumped the clutch till I had some pressure and used a short pry bar against the clutch pedal and slid the seat forward till there was good pressure on the pedal then went around and opened the bleeder slightly just letting a little bit out and repeated this several times till I had decent pressure. The techs told me that the air bubble would eventually rise up the lines and exit at the master cylinder but I did not have any time to waste and this was my solution. Pretty shade tree I know but you gotta do what gets the job done when you have to be somewhere.

1 8 7 6 5 4 3 10 9 2

what do you mean by running rough? does it idle up and down and not steady and when you press on the gas it would die ''

if this is so, I had the same problem,, on my Isuzu 1989 pickup 2.6 4x4,,, it turn out to be a fuel pump problem

fuel pump was working but not making enough pressure ,, was pumping only 28 psi

needed to be pumping 42psi when starting and 38 psi when idling ,,, get a fuel pressure

test to be sure.... hope this helps

10.5 qts

I would guess around 8800 lbs. Mine (2001 NPR Diesel) weighed at 9200 lbs, with myself and some little stuff in the back, and whatever fuel was in the tank. I wrote it in the manual but don't have it with me to verify that number though.

the two tools you will need should be under and behind the seat. the first tool is a 2-3 foot rod, which is inconspicuously clipped to the wall behind the seat. the second is the lug wrench that is under the driver's seat by the jack. insert the fatter end of the rod through the hole in the rear of the truck to fit into a slot that will engage a gear that winds a chain that raises/lowers the spare tire. then the lug wrench is used as a key (via the hole in the handle of the lug wrench) to turn the rod. remember to keep the tire inflated to 60 psi or it won't be of much use. in fact, regularly overinflate (modestly) all of your tires and stick it to ExxonMobil.

Here in Oz, the Rodeo is called a Frontera and has a 3.2 V6 petrol engine, or a 3.0 turbo diesel straight four. Sold through General Motors Holden and called Holden Frontera and Holden Rodeo. The Frontera (your Rodeo) here has a 65 litre tank (13 imperial gallons or 14 U.S. gallons.) The Rodeo here (a pick up truck which I believe you call the Pu'p?) has the same choice of engines. (In 2005 the V6 was increased to 3.5 litres). The Rodeo (pick up) has a 65 litre fuel tank except in the crew cab (four door) where the tank is only 57 litres. I have the crew cad but also use the single cab and the Frontera (Rodeo to you).