If the Fiero has a munual transmission there is a 13mm plug in the side of the transmission on the rear driverside about three quarters of the way up twards the trunk. Theres also a plug on the transmission, on the passenger sidetwards the bottom. That's also a 13mm that is a drain plug. only pull this one if your flushing the transmission. Otherwise pull the top plug and full with a 5 30 weight oil it will say on the plug what to use. Ak47pk47@yahoo.com or hit me up on my space at keffer paul@ yahoo.com

I have a 88 fiero with a 3800 and a 4l60 e overdrive supercharged out of a 94 olds bought it from a guy, very fast dyno 310 hp to the ground modified injectors , super charged forged pistons .030" over balanced , heads ported , forged rods . a few bugs I am working out i believe this would be a series 11 churchdad101@hotmail.com

Your 1984 2.5 four should never ever need an adjustment.

But if you have noisy valves, remove air cleaner and valve cover.

Check valve lift (it is likely if you have noisy valves the camshaft has failed)

If all checks good, Rotate engine until each valve is on the base circle of the cam, adjust valve until there is no lash or slop in the rocker and tighten an additional 1/2 turn.

Fieros came with a 2.5 four or a 2.8 V6. None were made with a 3.1

Whatever your wallet can make go in there. Personally? I've replaced the stock 2.5, done a clutch on a 2.8, and even welded in a 500 cube big block out of a 72 eldorado in the back of a fiero. Granted, I had to rip out the sub-frame, trunk, and a few other things, and (beer, pizza, a stupid side bet, and too much cash aside) it really wasnt done quite right because it was more of a joke than anything else, but it did fit...

Side note, if your putting in a 500, be sure to add some reinforcement to the floor of the fiero, as well as the firewall, otherwise you'll just end up ripping the back end of the car off from the torque, and having to tow home two halves.

But it was pretty cool...

Mine is currently getting a 3800 supercharged out of a Grand Prix GTP

I have done 3 Small block chev conversions

And there are many of the new overhead cam GM motor out there

But my favorite is the Cadillac Northstar

proly should just junk it

At what RPM and load?

If at idle it is running way lean and has probably got a cracked EGR valve to manifold tube.

At higher RPM and load this is normal.

You can try wrecking yards, I got a couple spares for my 85 GT from Pick-n-pull

"The Fiero Store" lists them as in stock, they are a great on-line resource for a lot of stuff.

There is no idler pulley on this year Fiero so you must mean Idle Speed.

It is most likely that if the idle is high and it wont slow down automatically, 1500 or so, that you have a cracked EGR pipe between the intake and the EGR valve.

There are replacements available on line from companies like "The Fiero Store"

I had a 88 myself and had the same problem, look down inside the console by the shifter and there is probubly change that has fallen down there. Hope this works for ya

There are a few more things that can be wrong, but the most common seems to be the shifter cables. The 88 GT came with 2 cables, both of which are NOT adjustable (and stretch with time), and no longer available to purchase (stock). As they stretch, they lose effectiveness. You can buy replacements that are adjustable (and come fairly accurately adjusted) from RodneyDickman.com. Good luck. I had no one to get advice from and spent a TON of money having my hearbox torn open twice to replace all the gears and synchros before I finally figured this one out. Don't make the same mistake.

Your cables may just be broke, but more likely, if your Fiero has been in a front end collision your hood may have been pushed back toward the windshield. There are two safety locking "pins" one on each side near the windshield that will keep the hood from being pulled up(why thy chose to do this on a hood that couldn't "fly open" I will never know). If you think this is the case with your Fiero you can pull up the headlight covers with the help of a friend(It's not connected to the headlight assembly but is spring loaded), to gain access to some of the hood hinge nuts(just to the inside of the light assembly). There is very little room to work but loosening these may give you enough slack to slide the hood forward and release the tension on the latch or to disengage the hood from the safety pins. Haveing a friend push down on the hood where the latch is while you pull the release cable may also help. Hope this helps.

on the transmission

Check in this order

1. Burnt out bulbs, in either front or rear

2. Fuses

3. Flasher unit - under passenger dash

4. Turn signal switch

MOST LIKELY is one or more burnt out bulbs!

Oh god

Good luck finding a good place to put it, never mind running wire to it.

2.5L 145 km/h

2.8L165 km/h

from Pontiac spec.

The ECM is between the seats behind the little glove compartment mounted on the rear wall.

To get into it, remove both ashtrays, remove the four screes you can now see, flip down the glove compartment and remove two screws, remove two screws revealed when boot and garnish lifted up, remove rear portion of centre console, ECM on rear wall between seats no revealed.

Torque converter clutch?

Remove transmission

Replace Torque converter

Reinstall

one manual that Ive got says 10.3 gallons and one that says 12 gallons.

Basically

1 Hang the engine from a bracket that runs over the top of the engine bay

2 Remove the rear tires, and brakes

3 Remove the two rear axle shafts

4 Remove the engine cradle, with the engine supported by the top bracket

5 Remove the transmission that is hanging with the engine

6 Remove the pressure plate, and clutch, and flywheel from the hanging engine

Installation is the reverse of the above

straight down from the front of the air filter. There are 2 coils mounted to the ignition control module. the firing order starting from the bottom of the coil packs is 1-4-2-3. Plug 1 is on the passanger side of the car.

The rear calipers are bolted on, depending on who rebuilt the calipers last either with torx or allen bolts.

Undo both.

The old pads and the caliper may not want to come past the rusty edge of the rotor. To get past this I have used a pry bar if the issue is not to bad or a small grinder disk on the rusty raised edges only.

Once the pads and caliper slide off the inside bad is held by a little wimpy clip system and will probably fall out as soon as the caliper clears the rotor.

The outer pad is more securely retained and will require a little force to pop out.

Screw the piston back into the caliper with the special tool you can buy at any parts or auto tool supplier.

Reinstall is reverse of removal from there.

Pontiac Fiero was created in 1984.

All 30 amp