Pool Heating

Remove the vinyl cover when using a solar blanket to warm the water. If the vinyl cover is used at the same time as the solar blanket, the vinyl cover absorbs most of the heat and then transfers the heat into the air or water between the vinyl cover and the solar blanket. Then the heat transfers to the solar blanket and then, finally, into the water. When this happens, a lot of heat remains in the vinyl cover and air/water between the two covers instead of getting into the water. It is preferable to have the heat absorbed by the solar cover and then transfer directly into the water. Hope this helps...

Too much redundancy in pool covers.

Like most things in life, "it depends"! It depends on: *how much money do you want to spend to heat your pool? Consider both up-front equipment and long-term fuel costs. *where do you live? Florida or Canada? *how much of the year do you intend to swim? May-Sept or Jan-Dec? *do you have an appropriate location and space for solar panels? *how warm do you like the water? If you live in a sunny region and have a generously sized solar system the answer could very well be "yes". If you don't live in a sunny region or don't have extra room for the solar panels, the answer could easily be "no". For example, I live in Los Angeles and use a solar heater. My pool is over 80F from early April through the end of October. This works great for me and my family. The equipment cost was affordable and the operating cost is basically zero since I have to run my pump anyway. But that's me. Only you can decide what you want and how much you are willing to pay for it. A gas heater can generally provide more heat than solar. And it can provide that heat 24/7/365. If you are willing to spend the money, you can swim whenever you want to swim in water as warm as you like it! Consider your needs and talk to some experienced pool builders and a few pool owners to get a better idea of what might work best for you. Hope this helps ...

Yes, the solar cover should touch the pool water. The cover absorbs the heat from the sun and then transfers that heat to the water. If the cover does not touch the water, most of the heat will end up in the air between the cover and the water rather than going into the water itself. Hope this helps ...

It could be it. The pilot generator may be weak. The Valve could be defective. The High limit or other safties could also be defective. Could be corrosion on the connection. could be a water flow broblem. could be a weak flame

Have you rotated the gas valve knob to "run".

Have you turned up the thermostat?

Is the pump running? No pump water flow - no heat -- no filtration.

Is the filter clean? When was the last time you cleaned the filter?

Ken

You need to determine the:

gas heater size for the specific pool/spa (with spa use no less than 400,000 BTU). ( how fast do you want the spa to heat to temp?)

length of the gas run from the gas meter to the heater pad.

size of the gas meter

size of the gas pipe

at a minimum.

Ken

debris from trees, rain. ect!

Best to point flow sideways rather than downwards. Sideways direction should be such so as to maximize water flow towards the pool skimmer (consider wind direction also).

I would suggest diagonally downward and to the side. If you have more than one return, point them in the same sideways direction. Why? 1) Sideways in order to circulate water toward the skimmer. 2) downward to force the water that was just taken through the skimmer (surface water) down into the deeper cooler regions of the pool where free chlorine is more available and disinfection of the surface water more effective.

I have the best of both worlds with this great product. See web site

http://www.thecirculator.com/fnb.php

of you put the solar panels out side the fence then u can do it. just make sure to put fence around the solar panel's

Yes you will use less chemical and loose less heat

To finish the statement above: . . . . . and lose less heat . . along with possibly loosing the copper heat exchanger inside the heater. The tabs in the "capture well" or skimmer: Tabs are highly acidic. While the filter/pump is running at night or daytime you get a certain amount of acidic water thru the equipment and system - still it is detremental (harmful) to the system. But, when the system shuts off for those few hours the tabs continue to dissolve. That accumulated dissolved tab (the dissolved solution has by now multilpied in strength) will then rush thru the heater stripping layers of the copper finned tubing with it and depositing the metal on the plaster, vinyl, anything it touches. Soon and very soon, you will have to call the service tech to find out why your heater is leaking or not working. A good place for the tabs is in a floater or better still in an automatic feeder located near the pool equipment - in stalled after the heater. Best yet switch to a salt generating system.

To the best of my knowledge (and several other good sources), there is NO law in California that a pool must be pre-plumbed for solar heating. However, local building codes and common building practices may vary. I would simply call your local city or county building department and check the building codes for your local area. Pre-plumbing for solar heating may or may not be included in the price. Check with your contractor or installer to find out if it is included. Here is another good link to review: http://www.sdenergy.org/ContentPage.asp?ContentID=134&SectionID=120&SectionTarget=44 That being said, it may be a VERY good idea to pre-plumb your pool for solar heating. Solar heat has many great advantages and continues to gain popularity for pool heating, especially in sunny California. Hope this helps ... Yes - the system much be plumbed such that there is sufficient space/clearance to add the valves and pipes to roof for a future solar install. No added cost - law is just to make sure the physical layout of the original pipes allows for the addition of solar in the future.

I'm licensed in pool service in the State of Florida. There is no state law in regards to your question. A condo pool is classified in Florida and many other states as a Class C: Semi Public Pool. The only temperature regulation is that spa or hot tub water cannot exceed 104 degrees. Perhaps your condo's by-laws have a rule that the pool water cannot be heated above 79 degrees. Recent research has indicated that the optimal pool water temp for rigorous swimming or excercise is 78 degrees.

Hi- There can be several reasons for blistering in fiberglass pools. If the pool is new- the chances are that it is a manufacturing defect so you should contact the manufacturer. If the pool is older- it is probably osmotic blistering which is common in fiberglass boats. For more information on this look up "osmotic blisters" on Google. The cure is usually to let it thoroughly dry out, fix the blisters, and paint with a good epoxy that will keep moisture out. Hope this is of help to you. The previous response sounde like the blisters are soft like bubbles. The blisters on my pool are hard - can't be pushed down with hand pressure.

your heater is more than likely to be working at night, but simply retain the temperature rather than increasing it. a solar cover will assist this.

Are you running the pool pump at night too. Pump not working nothing works.

You must first DRAIN the water off the pool cover!! Get a hose or plastic tube (available from most pet stores (fish department) and syphon off the water. This will take th weight of the water off the cover so you can lift it off of the pool.

My pool is 44 x 20. If I didn't have a reel, there would be no way that I could pull the solar cover off by myself. I think it depends on how big your pool is but I couldn't use my solar cover without one. I find my reel a pain in the butt! The cover never unravels evenly on both sides (round pool with reel in center).

A: then your reel and cover are not installed correctly..... or is a very cheap model.

our cover reel works great on a 16 X 24 above ground. In the winter I unbolt from the deck and hang it in the garage.

I was told by Teledyne Laars that your pilot generator needs to produce at least 500mv to open the gas valve. Mine makes 350mv and will not open the valve.

Hmm, I think that should be nearer to 600 mv - 700 mv.

you might want to check into how much lime and calcium is in your water, also there are airborne particles that will settle onto the water.

There is a company called Enviro-safe that makes a replacement called es-22a. I cannot vouch for it's effectiveness since I haven't tried it. It is also marketed by different companies and can be found on Ebay. It is advertised as compatible with R-22 and R-22 systems, including oils, compressors, etc.

Hot tubs aren't even that great for adults on a regular basis. Some people keep them far too hot, and it truly isn't good for anyone. I wouldn't let a child into the hot tub until they are around 12 or more. Putting a child in as a toddler is asking for a disaster.

Marcy

A ray of light.
i think , the air
submarine sailors
a shadow

102,000 BTU = 1 ccf

This is probably due to a faulty thermocouple. The thermocouple generates a small voltage when hot that is used as a security device that keeps the gas flowing to the pilot. These are relatively inexpensive (UK about �18).

You can check if this is the problem by measuring the voltage on the wires coming back from the pilot. When you have the red switch depressed, check the voltage (should be about 30mV). If there's no voltage, then change the thermocouple.

The thermocouple will generate up to 50mV in a pilot flame. If it falls below 20mV it should kill the fuel source. It may take a few minutes to generate enough voltage in order to keep the pilot lit, so you may have to depress the button for a minute or more. This would be typical if your unit has been off for an extended period of time.