Toyota Echo

There are two of them, one before the cat, and one after. Normally the one that needs replaced is the one BEFORE the cat (closer to the engine). You should unplug it first, use a flashlight to locate the tab, pry the tab UP with a very small flathead screwdriver, then pull it out of the socket. After that you can unbolt the O2 sensor using a wrench or better yet a special tool built for that purpose (some autoparts stores will loan it to you for free). It can be difficult to unbolt, you may need to use a breaker bar and hammer. The new one is installed in the reverse order. If you buy a generic one to save money, you will most likely need to cut the wiring harness off of the old one and solder the wires to the new one - refer to the instructions that came with your sensor.

Any engine needs 4 things to run, spark, fuel, air, and compression. One of those is your problem. Most likely a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel injector, could be clogged fuel filter. Check your air filter too, and complete path to throttle body. Make sure all the hoses are connected and in good condition.

Depends if you have automatic or manual transmission. Automatic trans fluid is type T-IV, which is a special type made by Toyota, I think I heard somewhere that a 3rd party was selling this type but I haven't seen it personally. You can buy T-IV ATF from the dealership or some online places including eBay at a slight discount.

The pedal on the left is the clutch. You press it when you are changing gears.

It is 30mm

If there's no leak, an overheat is caused by a problem with coolant level, coolant circulation, or heat transfer. Fill the coolant level. If the problem recurs within a month, it was something other than low level. Circulation problems are caused by clogged radiators, bad water pumps, non-functioning thermostats.

There could be several reasons, such as oil levels, or the engine may be getting old.

The air filter is located between the engine and the battery on the driver's side of the engine bay. To open it you first need to remove the big hose in front of it. You would do that by loosening the hose clamp with a Phillips head screw driver, and pulling the hose off the air box. Underneath the hose is two clamps. Flip those down and lift the top of the box up and then lift from the hinges in the r. You should have enough access to the air cleaner to remove it and replace it. If you need to remove it more you could remove the two electrical connections. One of them is on top of the box and the other on is to the on the side facing the engine. Then you could remove the hoses on the thing-a-ma-jig on the side of the airbox.

To put it back on, replace the top of the air box making sure the hinges fit back together properly in back and reclamping the airbox with the clamps in front. Then, if you removed them, replace the hoses on the side of the airbox and the electrical connections. After that push the big hose back onto the opening in front of the airbox and tighten down the hose clamp with the screwdriver.

The air filter is located between the engine and the battery on the driver's side of the engine bay. To open it you first need to remove the big hose in front of it. You would do that by loosening the hose clamp with a Phillips head screw driver, and pulling the hose off the air box. Underneath the hose is two clamps. Flip those down and lift the top of the box up and then lift from the hinges in the r. You should have enough access to the air cleaner to remove it and replace it. If you need to remove it more you could remove the two electrical connections. One of them is on top of the box and the other on is to the on the side facing the engine. Then you could remove the hoses on the thing-a-ma-jig on the side of the airbox.

To put it back on, replace the top of the air box making sure the hinges fit back together properly in back and reclamping the airbox with the clamps in front. Then, if you removed them, replace the hoses on the side of the airbox and the electrical connections. After that push the big hose back onto the opening in front of the airbox and tighten down the hose clamp with the screwdriver.

You need to be a lot more specifid. The braking system on any car consists of many parts, if you had to replace all parts, it could cost thousands of dollars. If you only need to replace the pads on the front brakes, it could cost $20 if you do it yourself, or $20 plus whatever your local mechanic charges for labor. Other parts include rotors ($50+) and calipers, brake booster, etc. Older echos have drum brakes on the rear tires, they are serviced less frequently, and labor is more expensive (more time consuming) but the pads are about the same cost as the front brake pads.

The maintenance manual that came with the car tells how often (probably every 60-100K).

The capacity of the manual transaxle is: 1.9 liters (2.0 US qts, 1.7 Imp. qts) using API oil grade GL-4 or GL-5, SAE 75W-90 differential oil (the stuff has an awful smell to it). If you don't know how much oil you've got in the transmission, you want to make sure that the level is about 0 - 5 mm (0 - 0.02 in.) from the edge of the filler plug (almost visually full). I wouldn't change the oil as frequently as the author above mentioned, but that's a personal preference thing I suppose.

There are two, one on the inside under the steering wheel area, near the driver's left knee (look for a removable panel, might be at the back of a storage compartment), the other is under the hood, near the battery.

The Toyota Echo is a gender neutral car. It was manufactured for someone looking for an affordable, reliable, fuel efficient vehicle.

A rebuilt starter is around 150 dollars with out labor. Do a google search.

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Right next to the air filter.

Sounds like someone let the air out. Another possibility is that it is leaking at the valve stem. It may only leak when you are moving. The centrifugal force causes the valve stem to bend sideways and leak. It could also be you parked it with the leak on the bottom and the weight of the car sealed it. I would remove the tire and check it throughly with soapy water for a leak.

when the TPS stop's working properly and may throw a code , but it can make your idel real rough between this and your cars IAC( Idel air control) .

You normally gain access to the bulb from inside the trunk.

When was the last time you had a tune up? When the a/c pump is engaged it causes parasitic loss of horse power and rpm. The computer sees this loss and adjusts accordingly. From what you state, the vehicle rpm is dropping to low causing the vehicle to idle roughly. Give the vehicle a tune up and this should fix the problem.

Your AC draws power from the engine. If too much power is drawn, and the engine does not compensate for it, RPMs can go low enough to cause it to stall.

The first thing to do is have your ac compressor checked to make sure it is working properly (a bearing could be damaged).

Next thing to do is clean your throttle body, this is an easy job and has fixed the problem you describe for many people.

I think there may be a way to adjust the ac idle speed as well but I've never done it, and this is probably the last thing you'd want to try anyway.

You can order it from a Toyota dealer, or find one on ebay. If you search the internet hard enough, you may find a digital copy somewhere, possibly for a different model year but the 2000 to 2005 models are all very similar so having the exact manual for your model year isn't critical.

Brake pads have a wear indicator to let you know when they need replacing. The screeching means you need to replace the brake pads, and the sooner the better to avoid damaging your rotors (the shiny disks that the brake pads rub against to slow your car down).

i would not recommend it, stick with the correct recommened type from toyota, ive seen a lot of problems caused by incorrect fluid. type t-iv is compatible with a vehicle that takes dexron III, but it doesnt work the other way.

Depends on which lights. Pull off the climate control knobs and take out both screws. Give the dash a tug from the sides near the compartments and you can pull the whole thing out.

Drain and refill:

w/ Oil filter change: 3.7 liters (3.9 US qts, 3.3 lmp. qts)

w/o Oil filter change: 3.4 liters (3.6 US qts, 3.0 lmp. qts)

Dry fill: 4.1 liters (4.3 US qts, 3.6 lmp. qts)