Toyota Highlander

On my (2000) Avalon the centre brake light is part of the middle speaker on the rear shelf. The speaker slides straight forward (you have to tug on it to overcome the friction mounts that hold it in place). Then lift it up and you gain access to the brake lightbulb.

don't know what you are working on, but there is a silicon spray for belts its called a silicon belt dressing

The ground clearance of the 2007 Toyota Highlander-Hybrid is 0 ft. 6.9 in. (6.9 in.).

I've done a little research on this.

My Advice;

READ YOUR CAR MANUAL!!!

If it says you only have LATCH for the two outer seats, that's all you have. You can not use the inner most LATCH hooks for the middle.

According to a posting I found here's why;

"My SUV only has the LATCH system on the side seats and not the middle seat. I spoke to the car safety officier for the police department ... he told me not to use the LATCH in the middle position (by using the side seats LATCH system) since my SUV is not equipped with it is because the LATCH is connected to the car frame and if we were in an accident and the frame of the car bent it could tear his seat in pieces. I was not aware that the LATCH was connected to the frame"

From: http://www.amazon.com/review/R1VTXRFKRIM6XK

If you can get a secure fit using the seat beat in the middle, this is the safest place. If not, use the LATCH on the passenger side.

The ground clearance of the 2006 Toyota Highlander is 0 ft. 6.9 in. (6.9 in.).

The 2010 Toyota Highlander-Hybrid runs on regular unleaded.

The 2009 Toyota Highlander has a 6-speed automatic.

If you are changing it before it broke, you are in luck. You just must markthe current locations of the timing belt as it is now. You have to remove allthe brackets holding the top of the engine on the passenger side of the car,alternator, power steering, and A/C belts. Then you can get to the plastic covers that enclose the timing belt. The large bolt holding the harmonic balancer was a hard one for me - had to use a large air impact (fortunately my neighbor has a tire business and had a huge compressor on the back of his truck). I understand most are not this difficult.Align the cam sprockets to the top of the engine with the little arrows on the head. Then you will notice the belt is aligned on the crankshaft at the bottom of the engine with the keyway facing slightly to the left (11 o'clock position or so). It will not be straight up. There is a little "o" mark on the crankshaft sprocket which aligns with a mark on the new belt. Getting these marks exact requires writing down their exact locations before removing the old belt. Don't try it from memory unless you are a trained Toyota factory technician.The cam sprockets at the top of the engine are lettered "R" and "L". Thenew timing belt will have corresponding letters. The timing belt has to beplaced on with the letters reversed as they are facing you (as the "R" camis actually on your left as you face the engine from the passenger side).My job turned out excellent. Cost me less that $50 bucks.I did not change the tensioner although it is recommended. My theory is thatit will last until the second timing belt job since it does not have a lot of moving parts and is enclosed and lubricated constantly.No warranties implied with this advice - we are all on our own.

Good luck. And keep some bandaids close by.

KDS

Turn on ignition (without starting engine) - make sure the odometer is set to actual vehicle mileage (NOT the trip meter) - push in on the odometer/trip meter switch and turn off the ignition - turn ignition back on continuing to keep the switch depressed for about 5 - 10 seconds. The odometer readout should change to all zeroes - the service reminder function is now re-set. (note: this procedure is explained in your owner's manual).

It is recommended at 90000 miles before major problems result from not changing it

The 2005 Toyota Highlander takes a fairly specialized 12" rear wiper blade that is difficult to find at most stores. See sources and related links below for more information.

The maximum tosing capacity of the 2008 Toyota Highlander is 5000 lbs..

pretty sure it already is...

Added: FIrst answer is correct. The Highlander is an All-Wheel-Drive (AWD) vehicle when the OBD computer senses the need for a 4-wheel mode, and automatically shifts into it.

It is probably the same as with the 2002 4Cyl Highlander. First, take pain-staking-care in making a sketch of the relative positions of the pulleys the serpentine belt snakes around and the path the belt takes around each pulley. There is one and only one correct path the belt must take around these pulleys. Then compare your sketch to the description below and note any differences. Pulleys labeled below as 3,2 and 6 are toward the front of the car and are roughly in a vertical line with each other. Pulley 1 is above 5, both are left of the vertical line-up of 3,2 and 6. Pulley 4 is directly left of pulley 5 and close to the firewall. (1)-tensioner idler pulley about 3.5" diameter (2)-water pump pulley about 5" diameter (3)-alternator pulley about 3.5" diameter (4)-power steering pulley about 6" diameter (5)-main crankshaft pulley about 9" diameter (6)-air conditioner compressor about 6" diameter DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CUT THE SERPENTINE BELT TO REMOVE IT. The belt tensioner could be damaged if this is attempted. The tension must first be relieved on the serpentine belt in order to remove it. This is done by applying clock-wise torque on a 19mm "nut" just above the tensioner idler pulley. The idler pulley is located just above the main crankshaft pulley and is to the left of the water pump pulley. The nut is a molded part of the tensioner bracket and therefore does not "unscrew" like a conventional nut. Its purpose is solely to provide an attachment point for a long lever used to compress the spring loaded tensioner in order to provide slack in the belt. Use a shallow 19mm socket on a 3/8" ratchet. As the ratchet handle does not provide nearly a long enough lever for applying torque on the nut, I slid a 2ft. long, heavy duty aluminum pipe with a 3/4" to 1" inside diameter over the 3/8" ratchet handle. This extended the effective length of the ratchet handle and provided ample leverage to compress the tensioner spring. The tensioner moves quickly with a lot of force when counter-clockwise torque is applied on the 19mm attachment point, but moves slowly, with resistance when a clockwise force is exerted. This is known as an oil-damped spring. A clockwise force must be applied to slacken the belt, therefore the starting position of the ratchet handle must begin in about a 1 o'clock position as viewed facing the right fender-well. From the front of the car, pull the extended ratchet handle toward you by applying slow, steady pressure as you pull the ratchet handle toward the front of the car. You must apply this steady force for about 3 to 4 seconds in order for the idler tensioner to compress fully. While keeping the tension idler spring compressed, slide the serpentine belt off of the water pump pulley. Then slowly release the pressure on the ratchet lever until it is lax. Leave the socket and ratchet handle in place. Now you can remove the belt from all of the other pulleys. Putting the new serpentine belt on is easiest with the right front wheel removed and the small, plastic splash guard, that is to the right of the main crankshaft pulley, rotated up or down out of the way. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the splash guard. There is one more bolt holding this splash guard on behind the plastic, lower front wheel well liner but I found it unnecessary to worry with it since the small splash guard pivots out of the way just fine with only the two 10mm bolts removed. You will be accessing belt placement by standing in front of the vehicle and through the right-front fender-well by sitting on the ground facing the right wheel-well. Expect several trips back and forth these two locations installing the new belt unless you have an extra pair of hands helping you. As you thread the belt around the pulleys, make sure the v-grooves in the belt mate to the v-grooves on the pulleys and are exactly centered on each pulley. Note that only two pulleys do not have grooves, the tensioner idler and the water pump. They both have smooth surfaces where the belt contacts. The flat side of the belt makes direct contact with these two smooth pulley surfaces. Begin by looping the belt around the alternator pulley (3), positioning the belt around this pulley clockwise, from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position, the 12 o'clock end will go left and down toward the firewall to the top of and counter-clockwise around the power steering pulley (4). The 6 o'clock end will go counter-clockwise, top to bottom, around the water pump pulley (2). At this point, it is time to re-compress the tensioner idler in order to provide enough slack in the belt to make it easier to thread the belt around the remaining pulleys. The belt runs counter-clockwise around the top of the power steering pulley (4), and exits from the bottom of this pulley toward the right, and up, to the top of the tensioner idler pulley (1). The belt goes clockwise around the top of the idler pulley exiting about the 7 o'clock position toward the top, left side of the crankshaft pulley (5). The belt continues counter-clockwise around the crankshaft pulley exiting at the 6 o'clock position to the right, then counter-clockwise around the bottom of the air conditioning compressor pulley then ending at the bottom of the water pump pulley. Check all pulleys and make sure the belt is still centered on them. You can slowly relieve the torque on the tensioner bolt if all looks good. Reinstall the splash guard with the two 10mm bolts. Reinstall the right front wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Pat yourself on the back and say "Well done". Just hope you never have to replace the belt tensioner as I have. It involves all of this plus more, but you will save at a minimum of $350.

The 2004 Toyota Highlander is 15'5" long.

Push and hold the "DISP" button at the driving wheel to set up the MultiFunctionDisplay (MFD).

Then select "Set time" with the "DISP" button and then hold the button.

Now you can walk through the hours till its right, wait until it jumps to the next digit, change and so on.

there is no confirmation needed, just wait.

with vehicle on to ensure you are in "Trip A" on your Odometer reading you then turn the vehicle off. Now, with you foot OFF the brake push in the Odometer reset button and hold it while at the same time push the power button twice. You should see the maint. screen come on with dash lines that are in the process of resetting the message. When it is reset it will say "complete".

Remember, to NOT have your foot on the brake at this time. It's just like turning on the accessories in the car but first be in "Trip A"/turn off vehicle/then (no foot on brake) push the ODO button (keep it pushed)/then push PWR button twice and the reading will come on that it is resetting. Yes, I repeated myself but wanted to make sure no one had to go through what I did to get it reset. Hope this helps.

**Sorry, this advice above doesn't work. I just tried to reset my display screen using these steps, but it doesn't work. Can anyone post a valid answer?

The 2006 Toyota Highlander-Hybrid has a 28 degrees angle of approach.

The maximum cargo capacity of the 2004 Toyota Highlander is 80.6 cu.ft..

The 2013 Toyota Highlander has an inline 4 engine.

$100.00

It really depends on who is doing the work and how fast they work, but just to take the belts apart and replace the timing belt inside your engine it takes anywhere from 2 to 4 hours. I recommend you get done professionally, if its not done right it could cause some major internal damage. Could cost anywhere from $100-$250 for just the labour. Good luck

A 1997 GXE uses a timing chain, not a belt. I should last the life of the car if you're not an abusive driver.

I have a 1997 Nissan Sentra GXE and my car has over 200,000 miles on it. I don't know why everyone went from using timing chains to belts on new cars, other than it is built in money for the dealers. The 60,000 mile scheduled maintainence can cost clost to $1000.00 depending on the make/model of vehicle.