Vehicle Titles

Nope

Title Companies do title searches to make sure the title is "free and clear" - which means there are no claims again the title.

Under CIF (Cost, Insurance, and Freight) terms, the title of goods typically passes from the seller to the buyer when the goods are loaded onto the shipping vessel at the port of shipment. This means that the buyer assumes ownership and risk at that point, even though the seller is responsible for the costs and insurance until the goods reach the destination port. The seller must also provide the buyer with the necessary documents to claim the goods upon arrival.

Why would they NOT be able to repo a car they purchased the title to? READ your contract.

The loan applicant must be on the title. The co-signer can certainly insist on being on the title to the vehicle. That would make it easier to take possession of the car if the primary borrower defaults.

However, it also makes the co-signer vulnerable as a co-owner of a vehicle being owned and operated by a person with a poor credit history. There may be liability issues in case of an accident. There may be costs if the primary allows the insurance to lapse, or they accumulate unpaid traffic violations and the vehicle is impounded.

A co-signer must make certain they are fully informed before signing their name as the responsible party. The reasons for not co-signing are abundant.

You can visit this website to get an idea of how much the tax, title, and tags will cost.

http://www.carmax.com/enUS/tax-title-tags-fees-calculator/default.html

She'll need to sign it over to you.

Yes, this is quite common.

Here is a great link explaining in length what a salvage cert is.

http://www.moga.mo.gov/statutes/C300-399/3010000227.HTM

Most states have a law that requires that the title be sent within 3, 10 or 30 days of final payment being made. The law usually doesn't have much in the way of teeth, so you may need to remind the lending institution that the loan has been paid and that you want the title. After you have requested the title the lending institution may be in default and you may have recourse, depending again on your state and the laws that regulate title loans.

Go to your local DMV and ask for a duplicate title.

Have dmv run the vin number and they can tell you who owns the car.

If sales tax was paid in Alaska, you won't pay it again in Texas. But you will have to pay "registration fees" in the new state, & good luck getting that partial refund from the state you are moving from. It could happen... with persistence.

I recently purchased a used vehicle in Florida and needed to register it in Texas where I live. First of all many Texas Motor Vehicle employees are not very well informed. It was in Florida where I learned that many States have a reciprocal agreement when it comes to sales tax. Florida and Texas have such an agreement, I don't know about Alaska. I was told by the Texas people that they didn't have it and when I went to register the car, they tried to charge me the full sales tax. Luckily I insisted they find someone who knew the law. Anyway, you pay sales tax on a used vehicle in Texas according to the value they have decided your car is worth even if you paid less. (Don't ask!!) Since I had registered the car in Florida before I left, I had proof of what I paid for the car. That was a big help. I paid the difference in Tax when I registered in Texas which has a higher sales tax. Of course you still have to pay registration fees and they sock you with a $90. new resident fee (I call this "Welcome to Texas" hospitality!!??). First year it cost $194.00 & $90.00 plus an inspection fee of $39.50, plus your insurance costs to register a car here and this doesn't include sales tax. The next year you pay inspection $39.50 and roughly $73. for renewed registration. No free inspection stations in Texas. Oh, and the process is, First get insurance, next get the car inspected, then get it registered and lastly you can get a "coveted" Texas drivers license. Getting the idea that the Motor Vehicle Dept in Texas needs a major overhaul??!! Good Luck

Yes, they can be sued. Its law.

it depends from store to store.

I had this very same instance come up and the police were called. They told me that as long as the payments were being made and you have proof of you making the payments on time, the cosigner has to leg to stand on when trying to take the car. So NO your cosigner can not take the car.

As long as it is not a "RED" title, then yes you can. I drive a vehicle in SC with a salvage title. If the title color is red, then you can not re-title it. This is something that they just started doing, and the red title means it is not rebuildable.

Go to your local dmv and get a duplicate title.

When you drive a car into a state, you are responsible for operating under that state's laws. In this case, you would be subject to both Oregon and California during the trip. You should check each state's laws to determine whether you are able to operate a non-registered vehicle in that state within a few days of purchase.

Some states allow time to register a new car, and some require that a used vehicle be registered immediately. If the vehicle is still registered in the prior owner's name, you may be able to operate it with that registration until you return home.

KNIGHT. Baronet carries the honorific:SIR, which is deemed hereditary, and is the lowest rank of the peerage. (Strictly speaking, BARON is the lowest rank of the peerage, since they carry the honorific: LORD and can sit in the House of Lords, but Baronets cannot).

Knight carries the honorific: SIR, but is held by the recipient only. His wife is termed: LADY.

You may just need to sign a form stating that it was your car, and that you did sell it. It's up to him to get the paperwork, not you.

Harsha Vardhana