Volvo S60

Yes, I feel both clutch padel and gas pedal when accelerated. They are getting worse. I took the car Mazda dealer , they said it is normal for this model of car. It is crap

Yes. contact a Volvo dealer. They will fix it for free. Until then, don't worry unless you smell gas on the inside while you drive.

The 2002 Volvo S60 has 38.7 in. of front head room.

The curb weight of the 2002 Volvo S60 is 3146 lbs..

If the car has a metal fuel tank the pump is controlled by the pump control module mounted to the top of the gas tank. A little tough to just jump in there and change in a few minutes. The PCM actually controls the speed of the pump so pressure is supplied as needed according to the information supplied via the can network from the Engine Control Module. There have been problems in the past with some of the PCMs. Pull yours, get the numbers off of it and give Erie VoVO (that is spelled right). They are a Volvo salvage yard and are reasonable on their prices. I have purchased a couple of PCMs from them and they do warranty the parts they sell. If you have a Plastic tank on your car then some further diagnostics of the Engine Control module are going to be required. Hope this helps you

i have had same problem on my s60 2002 t5 took bit time to find out turns out to be the maf sensor bosch want around 200 pound i went for a cheap one of eBay for 50 pound never had prob since

the car may be low on power steering fluid

Yes it is.

Unplug the battery, disconnect cables from alternator. Unscrew 2 nuts (13 and 15mm) and 1 screw. Remove the plastic regulator cover. Unscrew 3 more screws and pull out the regulator. In d5 engines is useful to disconnect the intercooler pipe. You're gonna need a short philips screwdriver and probably less than 15 minutes.

thx

In 1987, the average life of a Volvo was calculated to be 20.7 years.

I have experience with Volvo models that have been run up to 350,000 miles on the original engine and even the original automatic gearbox.

I would personally estimate an average usefull life of circa 200,000 miles on the larger cars, but cannot advise on the 340 model that came with a choice of 1.4 and 1.7 litre Renault sourced engines, or the 400 series which again used a Renault sourced engine available in displacements ranging from 1.6 to 2.0 litres normally aspirated, and 1.7 litre turbo.

The 2004 Volvo S60 has a drag coefficient of .28 Cd.

Loosen wheel lugs, jack car, remove wheel; always place jack stands under the car for support, and wheel also, to catch the car if it should fall somehow or other. Never work under car supported by jack only & wheels off....NEVER. Remove the two bolts on backside of caliper that holds caliper to caliper mount, these bolts usually have small rubber accordian like boots over part of them. Once these bolts are loosened and removed, take the caliper off the rotor by sliding the caliper up or back off of the rotor, wiggle it, it'll come, tap with rubber hammer or pry, it will come. Do not hang caliper on the brake hose once you have it off the rotor. Set it on a small stand or hang by coathanger or other wire you have on hand. Watch out for ABS wires, don't screw anything up or break the hose or ABS wires. Easy will do it. OK, now, remove old pads after noting how they are installed so you can put the new pads in the same way (a digital camera works great for working photo of how things were to begin with for reference), and what clips, if any, may be holding the pads in the caliper. Clean everything well with brake cleaner. Do that again. Clean the two caliper slide bolts well too. Open brake master cylinder and remove about half the fluid from the reservoir. Now compress the piston in the brake caliper back flush with caliper housing, using C clamp or proper tool to push it back in, either will work fine. Easy with this, retract the piston slowly into the caliper and keep it moving straight as it goes. It may be tight, relax and move it slowly, it will go. Some folks use an old brake pad to push against, any small block of wood or plastic between the clamp/tool and the caliper piston will help with this. Compressing the calliper piston back into its bore will give you necessary space to fit the new, unworn pads into the caliper. Remember the new pads are about 2 or 3 times thicker than what is coming out due to pad wear. Now install new pads same way as the old ones, replace any springs or clips that were there. (leave caliper on other side of car intact for reference, just in case you get confused, and you will get confused, at least for a minute). After new pads are into the caliper or caliper mount, put proper brake lube on slider bolts on friction points to allow for good caliper movement, do not put this on the threads, now put blue loctite on threads. Reinstall caliper over rotor, then put caliper bolts back where they go into the caliper and tighten to spec. Usually about 20 to 30 ft lbs will do, depending on the size of the bolts, they are usually not that big. Something like 10 to 13 mm.......or so. Do not get grease on rotor or friction surface of pads, nope. Also do not forget the shim on the backside of the pads, it needs to be there or put a dab of brake lube on BACKSIDE of pad to prevent squeal. Make sure brake hoses and or ABS wires are properly routed and are snapped into any clamps or brackets that are there to hold them. VOILA, Put wheels on, tighten lugs carefully in star pattern, 80 ft lbs or so. Now, Do other side caliper.......NOTE: take time, be careful, refill brake reservoir when completely thru and close top to same. Don't get brake fluid on any plastic or painted surface that you care about, its like paint remover. Do not strip bolts, use penetrating oil to loosen bolts before starting the job & BEFORE rounding the heads. Keep your hands and work area clean. Reseat pads only when job is finished and the car is back on the ground. Step on brake pedal and slowly pump until pedal stops sinking and you have good solid feel on the pedal. Try em slowly at first at idle speed to assure brakes are working and nothing is leaking. Clean up and put tools away you are through.

The 2005 Volvo S60 is 5 ft. 11.4 in. (71.4 in.)100 watts stereo output wide.

The gas tank on the 2005 Volvo S60 holds 18.5 gal..

The curb weight of the 2011 Volvo S60 is 3901 lbs..

Rango, rendimiento de la valvula solenoide de descarga A del turbocompresor uce11 dtc

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One can purchase a used Volvo S60 R from a used car dealer, if one is lucky to have them in stock. Also, if one is lucky, a person in one's neighborhood could be selling one.

The curb weight of the 2013 Volvo S60 is 3548 lbs..

The gas tank on the 2013 Volvo S60 holds 17.8 gal..

The 2007 Volvo S60 runs on premium unleaded (required).

Depending on the year it can range anywhere from $3700 which is the average price for a 2001 to $22,300 which is the average price for a 2009.

Begin by removing the side indicator lamp connector. Take hold of the lamp, push in and turn at the same time. The lamp will come out.

try filling up your power stearing fluid,that could be the problem.

How do you turn the maintenance light off 2006 Volvo s60 How do you turn the maintenance light off 2006 Volvo s60 Turn key to position I hold trip reset button and turn key to position II continue holding the trip button for about 4 seconds there will be a yellow triangle flashing in the dash, if it turns red you held the reset button to long.